
Class / 7 /<k D 
Book- 1-3- 

Copyright N° 

COPYRIGHT IIEPOSIT. 



Mechanics 





A Book 
for Boys 

How to Build 

BOATS, WATER MOTORS, WIND MILLS, SEARCHLIGHT, 
ELECTRIC BURGLAR ALARM, ICE BOAT, WATER 
BICYCLE, CABINS, CAMPS, CLOCKS, FISH- 
ING TACKLE, KITES, IMITATION 
STREET CAR LINE, ETC. 






Water Bicycle 



The Directions 

are Plain and 

Complete 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

CHICAGO 




OF 



X 




Street Car 



PRICE 25 CENTS 



MECHANICS 

for 

YOUNG AMERICA 



A BOOK FOR OLD AND YOUNG WHO 
LIKE TO MAKE THINGS 



"WRITTEN SO YOC CAN UNDEKSTAND IT" 



Reprinted from POPULAR MECHANICS 



TELLS HOW TO MAKE 

Boats of Many Kinds, Tents, Fishing Tackle, Camps, 
Copper Work, Hectograph, Self- Propelled Vehicles, 
Turbines, Motors, Magic Lantern, Windmills, 
Telegraph Instrument, Searchlight, Alarms, 
Electric Piano, Water Motors, Camera, 
Ornamental Iron Work. Furnace 
Regulator, Kites, R libber 
Stamps. Paper Ha I loons. 
Devices for Winter 
Sports, Annunci- 
ator, Etc. 



CHICAGO 
POPULAR M ECH A N ICS 

Copyrighted 






Copyright 1910 

by 
H. H. WINDSOR 



€CI.A265 









' • 




"The Paper Boat Is Light and Easy to Propel 



HOW TO MAKE A PAPER BOAT 

A Light Boat That Can Be Easily Carried 



Now you might think it absurd to 
advise making a paper boat, but it is 
not, and you will find it in some re- 
spects and for some purposes better 
than the wooden boat. When it is com- 
pleted you will have a canoe, probably 
equal to the Indian's hark canoe. Not 
only will it serve as an ideal fishing 
boat, but when you want to combine 
hunting and fishing you can put your 
boat on your shoulders and carry it 
from place to place wherever you 
want to go and at the same time carry 
your gun in your hand. The material 
used in its construction is inexpensive 
and can be purchased for a lew dol- 
lars. 

Make a frame (Fig. 1) on which to 
stretch the paper. A board 1 in. thick 
and about 1 ft. wide and 1 1 1 ■'•> ft. long 
is used for a keel, or backbone, and is 
cut tapering for about a third of its 
length, toward each end, and beveled 



on the outer edges (A, Fig. 2). The 
cross-boards (B, B, Fig. 2) are next 
sawed from a pine board 1 in. thick. 
Shape these as shown by A, Fig. 1, 13 
in. wide by 26 in. long, and cut away in 
the center to avoid useless weight. Fas- 
ten them cross-wise to the bottom- 
board as shown in Fig. 1 and 2, with 
long stout screws, so as to divide the 
keel into three nearly equal parts. Then 
add the stem and stern pieces | ( . I , 
Fig. 2). These are belter, probably, 
when made of green elm. Screw the 
pieces to the bottom-board and bend 
them, as shown in Fig. 2, by means of 
a string or wire, fastened to a nail 
driven into the bottom. Any tough, 
light wood that is not easily broken 
when bending will do. Green wood is 
preferable, because it will retain the 
shape in which it has been bent better 
after drying. For the gunwales (a, 
a, Fig. :!), procure at a carriage factory, 




Details of F 



k Construction 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



or other place, some light strips of ash, 
% in. thick. Nail them to the cross- 
boards and fasten to the end pieces 




(C, C,) in notches, by several wrap- 
pings of annealed iron wire or copper 
wire, as shown in Fig. 3. Copper wire 
is better because it is less apt to rust. 
For fastening the gunwales to the 
crossboards use nails instead of screws, 
because the nails are not apt to loosen 
and come out. The ribs, which are 
easily made of long, slender switches of 
osier willow, or similar material, are 
next put in. but before doing this, two 
strips of wood d>, b. Fig. 3) should be 
bent and placed as in Fig. 3. They are 
used only temporarily as a guide in put- 
ting in the ribs, and are not fastened, 
the elasticity of the wood being suffi- 
cient to cause them to retain their po- 
sition. The osiers may average a lit- 
tle more than ] - in. in thickness and 
should be cut, stripped of leaves and 
bark and put in place while green and 
fresh. They are attached to the bottom 
by means of shingle nails driven 
through holes previously made in them 
with an awl, and arc then bent down 
until the}- touch the strips of ash (b, 
b. Fig. .'!). and finally cut off even with 
the tops of the gunwales, and notched 
at the end to receive them (B, Fig. 1). 
Between the cross-boards the ribs are 



placed at intervals of 2 or 3 in., while 
in other parts they are as much as 5 
or fi in. apart. The ribs having all been 
fastened in place as described, 
the loose strips of ash (b, b, 
Fig. 3) are withdrawn and the 
framework will appear some- 
what as in Fig. 1. In order 
to make all firm and to prevent 
the ribs from changing- posi- 
tion, as they are apt to do, buy 
some split cane or rattan, such 
as is used for making chair- 
bottoms, and, after soaking it 
in water for a short time to ren- 
der it soft and pliable, wind it 
tightly around the gunwales 
and ribs where they join, and 
also interweave it among the 
ribs in other places, winding it 
about them and forming an 
irregular network over the 
whole frame. ( Isiers probably 
make the best ribs, but twigs 
of some other trees, such as 
hazel or birch, will answer nearly as 
well. For the ribs near the middle of 
the boat, twigs 5 or (i ft. long are re- 
quired. It is often quite difficult to 
get these of sufficient thickness 
throughout, and so, in such cases, two 
twigs may be used to make one rib, 
fastening the butts side by side on 
the bottom-board, and the smaller ends 
to the gunwales, as before described. 
In drying, the rattan becomes very 
tight and the twigs hard and stiff. 

The frame-work is now complete and 
ready to be covered. For this purpose 
buy about IS yd. of very strong wrap- 
ping-paper. It should be smooth on the 
surface, and very tough, but neither 
stiff nor very thick. Being made in 
long rolls, it can be obtained in almost 
any length desired. If the paper be 1 
yd. wide, it will require about two 
breadths to reach around the frame in 
the widest part. Cut enough (1 f the roll 
to cover the frame and then soak it for 
a few minutes in water. Then turn 
the frame upside down and fasten the 
edges of the two strips of paper to it, by 
lapping them carefully on the under 
side of the bottom-board and tacking 
them to it so that the paper hangs down 



loosely on all sides. The paper is then 
trimmed, lapped and doubled over as 
smoothly as possible at the ends of the 
frame, and held in place by means of 
small clamps. It should be drawn tight 
along the edges, trimmed and doubled 
down over the gunwale, where it is 
firmly held by slipping the strips of asli 
(b, b) just inside of the gunwales into 
notches which should have been cut at 
the ends of the cross-boards. The 
shrinkage caused by the drying will 
stretch the paper tightly over the 
framework. When thoroughly dry, 
varnish inside and out with asphaltum 
varnish thinned with turpentine, and 
as soon as that has soaked in, apply a 
second coat of the same varnish, but 
with less turpentine; and finally cover 
the laps or joints of the paper with 
pieces of muslin stuck on with thick 
varnish. Now remove the loose strips 
(if ash and put on another layer of 
paper, fastening it along the edge of 
the boat by replacing the strips as be- 
fore. When the paper is dry, cover the 
laps with muslin as was done with the 
first covering. Then varnish the whole 
outside of the boat several times until 
it presents a smooth shining surface. 
Then take some of the split rattan and, 
after wetting it, wind it firmly around 
both gunwales and inside strip, pass- 
ing it through small holes punched in 
the paper just below the gunwale, until 
the inside and outside strips are bound 
together into erne strong gunwale. 
Then put a piece of oil-cloth in the 
boat between the cross-boards, tacking 
it to the bottom-board. This is done to 
protect the bottom of the boat. 

Now you may already have a canoe 
that is perfectly water-tight, and steady 
in the water, if it has been properly 
constructed of good material. If not. 
however, in a few days you may be 
disappointed to find that it is becoming 
leaky. Then the best remedy is to 
cover the whole boat with unbleached 
muslin, sewed at the ends and tacked 
along the gunwales. Then tighten it 
by shrinking and finally give it at least 
three coats of a mixture of varnish and 
paint. This will doubtless stop the 



POPULAR MECHANICS 1 

caking entirely and will add but little 



ti i either the weight or cost. 

Rig the boat with wooden or iron 
rowlocks (B, B, Fig. 5), preferably 
iron, and light oars. You may put in 




several extra thwarts or cross-sticks, 
fore and aft, and make a movable seat 
(A, Fig. 5.) With this you will doubt- 
less find your boat so satisfactory that 
you will make no more changes. 

For carrying the boat it is convenient 
to make a sort of short yoke ( C, Fig. 
5), which brings all the weight upon 
the shoulders, and thus lightens the 
labor and makes it very handy to carry. 



To Hang Heavy Things on a Nail 

lioys will find many places around 
the house, where a 
hook to hang things 
on will be a great 
convenience. Instead 
of buying hooks use 
wire nails, and if 
driven as shown in 
the cut, they will 
support very heavy 
weights. Drive the 
lower nail first. 




POPULAR MECHANICS 



A Home-Made Elderberry Huller 

As we had only one day to pick 

elderberries, we wanted to get as many 

of them as we could in that time. We 

could pick them faster than they could 




NATURAL. SIZE OF WIRE 

Details of the Elderberry Huller 

be hulled by hand so we made a huller 
to take along with us to hull the ber- 
ries as fast as they were picked. We 
procured a box and made a frame. Fig. 
1, tci fit it easily, then made another 
frame the same size and put a piece of 
wire mesh between them as shown in 
Fig. '.'. allowing a small portion of the 
mesh to stick out of the frames. The 
top frame would keep the berries from 
rolling or jumping off, and the bottom 
frame kept the wire mesh and frame 
from being shaken off the box. The 
projecting edges of the mesh would 



keep the frame on the top edge of the 
box. The top view of the frame is 
shown in Fig. 1 and the end in Fig. 5, 
and the box on which the frame rests 
in Fig. 3. The actual size of the wire 
mesh used is shown in Fig. 1. One 
person could hull with this huller as 
many berries as two persons would 
pick. — Contributed by Albert Niemann, 
Tittsburg, Pa. 



How to Make a Bulb on a Glass Tube 

As a great many persons during the 
winter months are taking advantage of 
the long evenings to experiment in one 
way or another, the following method 
of forming bulbs on glass tubes may 
be of interest. A common method is 
to heat the part to be formed and by 
blowing in one end of the tube grad- 
ually expand the glass. This way has 
its drawbacks, as many are not suf- 
ficiently familiar with the work to 
blow a uniform blast, and the result is, 
a hole is blown through the side of the 
tube by uneven heating or blowing. 

A good way to handle this work, is 
to take the tube and 1 or 2 in. more in 
length than the finished article is to be 
and place one end over an alcohol 
flame, and by holding a spare piece of 
tubing against the end allow them 
both to come to a melting heat, then 
pull apart and instead of breaking off 
the long thread thus formed, simply 
hold it in the flame at an angle of 45 
deg. and melt it down and close the 
end at the same time. Close the other 
end with the same operation ; this 
makes the tube airtight. 

Gradually heat the tube at the point 
where the bull) is to be formed, slowly 
turning the tube to get a uniform heat. 
The air inside of the tube becoming 
heated will expand, and the glass, be- 
ing softer where the flame has been 
applied, will be pushed out in the shape 
of a bulb. A great deal of care should 
be taken not to go to extremes, as the 
bulb will burst with a loud report if 
the heat is applied too long. The best 
results are obtained by heating the 
glass slowly and then the bulb can be 
formed with regularity. This is an 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



easy way to make a thermometer tube. 
After the bulb is formed, the other end 
of the tube can be opened by heating, 
drawing out and breaking the thread 
like glass. — Contributed by A. Oswald. 



center along concentric rings outward, 
then reverse. 

The candle holders may have two, 
three, four, or six arms, and are bent 
tn shape by means of the round-nosed 



How to Make a Sconce 

A sconce is a candlestick holder, so 
made that it has a reflector of brass or 
copper and is to hang upon the wall. 
The tools necessary are a riveting- 
hammer, hie, metal shears, rivet punch, 
flat and round-nosed pliers, screwdriver 
and sheet brass ur cupper No. 23 gauge. 

To make the sconce proceed as fol- 
lows :' First, cut off a piece of brass so 
that it shall have V2 ' n - extra metal all 
amund; second, with a piece of carbon 
paper, trace upon the brass Hues that 
shall represent the margin of the sconce 
proper, also trace the decorative de- 
sign ; third, with a nailset make a series 
of holes in the extra margin about :;/ ( 
in. apart and lar^e enough to take in a 
%-in. thin screw; fourth, fasten the 
metal to a thick board lu T inserting 
screws in these holes: fifth, with a 
twenty-penny wire nail that has had 
the sharpness of its point filed off, 
stamp the background of the design 
promiscuously. By holding the nail 
about ' 1 in. above the work and strik- 
ing it with the hammer, at the same 
time striving to keep its point at ' 1 in. 
above the metal, very rapid progress 
can be made. This stamping lowers 
the background and at the same time 
raises the design. Sixth, chase or 
stamp along the border of the design 
and background using a nail tiled to 
a chisel edge. This is to make a clean 
sharp division between background and 
design. Seventh, when the stamping 
is complete remove the screws and 
metal from the board and cut off the 
extra margin with the metal shears. 
File the edges until they are smooth to 
the ti null. 

The drip cup is a piece of brass cut 
circular and shaped In- placing the 
brass over a hollow in one end of a 
block. Give the metal a circular mo- 
tion, at the same time beat it with a 
round-nosed mallet. Work from the 




Completed Sconce 
Shaping the Holder; Riveting 

pliers. Tin' form of the brackets which 
support the drip cups may be seen in 
the illustratii m. 

I raving pierced the bracket, drip cup, 
and holder, these three parts are riveted 
together as indicated in the drawing. 
It will be found easier usually if the 
holder is not shaped until after the 
riveting is done. The bracket is then 
riveted to the back of the sconce. Small 
copper rivets are used. 

It is better to polish all the pieces 
before fastening any of them together. 
Metal pi ilish ( >f any kind will di >. After 
the parts have been assembled a lac- 
quer may be applied to keep (he metal 
from tarnishing. 



10 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How To Make a Hectograph 



A hectograph is very simply and eas- 
ily made and by means of it many 
copies of writing can be obtained from 
a single original. 

Make a tray of either tin or paste- 




Making Copii 



ith the Hectograph 



board, a little larger than the sheet of 
paper you ordinarily use and about % 
in. deep. Soak 1 oz. of gelatine in cold 
water over night and in the morning- 
pour oil' the water. Meat 6% oz. of 
glycerine to about 200 deg. F. on a 
water hath, and add the gelatine. This 
should give a clear glycerine solution 
■ if gelal ine. 

Place the tray so that it is perfectly 
I> vel and pour in the gelatinous com- 
position until it is nearly level with 
the edge of the tray. Cover it so the 
cover does not touch the surface of the 
composition and let it stand six hours, 
w hen it w ill l>e ready for use. 

Make the copy to be reproduced on 
ordinary paper with aniline ink; using 
a steel pen. and making the lines rather 
heavy so they have a greenish color in 
the light. A good ink may be made of 
methyl violet 2 parts, alcohol 2 parts, 
sugar 1 part, glycerine I parts, and wa- 
ter 24 parts. Dissolve the violet in the 
alcohol mixed with the glycerine; dis- 
solve the sugar in the water and mix 
1h ith solutions. 

When the original copy of the writ- 
ing is ready moisten the surface of the 
hectograph slightly with a sponge, lay 



the copy face down upon it and smooth 
down, being careful to exclude all air 
bubbles and not shifting the paper. 
Leave it nearly a minute and raise one 
corner and strip it from the pad, where 
will remain a reversed copy of the in- 
scription. 

Immediately lay a piece of writing 
paper of the right size on the pad, 
smooth it down and then remove as be- 
fore. It will bear a perfect copy of the 
original. Repeat the operation until 
the number of copies desired is ob- 
tained or until the ink on the pad is 
exhausted. Fifty or more copies can 
he obtained from a single original. 

When through using the hectograph 
wash it off with a moist sponge, and it 
.will be ready for future use. If the 
surface is impaired at any time it can 
he remedied in a water hath and poured 
into a tray as before, if it has not ab- 
si irbed t< io much ink. 



How to Make a Sailomobile 

By Frank Mulford. Shiloh, N. J. 

I had read of the beach automobiles 
used on the Florida coast; they were 
like an ice boat with a sail, except they 
had wheels instead of runners. So I 
set to work to make something to take 
me over the country roads. 

I found and used seven fence pickets 
for the frame work, and other things 
as they were needed. I spliced two 
rake handles together for the mast, 
winding the ends where they came to- 
gether with wire. A single piece would 
he better if you can get one long 
enough. The gaff, which is the stick 
to which the upper end of the sail is 
fastened, is a broomstick. The boom, 
the stick at the bottom of the sail, was 
made of a rake handle with a broom- 
stick spliced to make it long enough. 
.Mother let me have a sheet, which I 
put down on the floor and cut in the 
shape of a mainsail. The wind was 
the cheapest power to he found, thus 
it was utilized ; the three wheels were 
cast-off bicycle wheels. 

I steer with the front wheel, which 
was the front wdieel of an old bicycle 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



11 



with the fork left on. The axle be- 
tween the rear wheels is an iron bar 
which cost me 15 cents, and the pulley 



were the tools used. Slats made the 
seat and a cushion from the house made 
it comfortable, and in a week every- 




which raises and lowers the --ail oust 
5 cents. Twenty cents was all I spent, 
all the rest 1 found. 

A saw, hammer, and brace and bit 



Country Roads 



thing was ready for sailing. 

< 'nee it was started with only my lit- 
tle cousin in it and 1 had to run fast 
ti > catch up. 



12 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Jug Line Fishing 



Jug line fishing is fine sport and often 
successful where other methods fail. 
It is more often used on rivers on ac- 
count of the current. Fasten two jugs 
to a strong line about 30 ft. long. Be 
sure that each jug is securely corked. 




To the long line attach a couple or 
more of short fish lines equipped with 
proper sinkers and baited hooks. This 
done, place the outfit in the water and 
watch it, ready to follow with a row 
boat, or let it float down stream at- 
tached to a line held in the hand. When 
one of the jugs sinks or commences to 
bobble, you can row out to the line and 




-=w. 



Jugs Bob Up 



nd Do 



n Catch 



pull in the fish. On the Mississippi 
river dozens of jugs are often thus tied 
together and the fisherman follows 
them in a row boat until he has a good 
boat load of fish. 



How to Make a Miniature Steam 
Turbine 

With an old toy steam engine boiler 
and a little work a steam turbine can 
easily be made. When you have the 
boiler the next thing to do is to make 
a disk of wood about Vt in. thick and 
3 l /> in. in di- 
ameter. M ark 
twelve p o i nts 
around the 
edge of the cir- 
cle of wood, the 
points being at 
equal intervals 
all the way 
a r o u n d. Cut 
with a fine saw 
3/1(1 in. at each 
of these points. 
Twelve paddles 
should then be 
made of s h e e t 
copper or brass 
and cut in the 
shape of the fig- 
ure shown at A 
in the sketch. Then wedge the paddles 
tightly into the saw cuts and bend them 
into the shape of a spoon. For the axle 
take a wire nail, cut off the head and 
sharpen each end to a fine point. Force 
the nail securely into a central hole in 
the disk. 

Now we may go back to the boiler. 
As there is generally a small piece of 
brass tubing left on the side of a boiler, 
which was formerly connected to the 
steam engine, this piece may now be 
joined to a 1 or 5 in. length of rubber 
tubing and bound with wire. The rub- 
ber pipe is then attached in the same 
manner to a piece of metal tube bent 
into the shape shown in the drawing 
and fastened to the base with a staple. 
In mounting the wheel make two 
blocks of wood each 3 in. high, 1 - in. 
thick and 1 in. wide. ( >n the flat end 
of one of the blocks screw a small plate 
of sheet brass and punch a very tiny 
hole which should fit the point of the 
axle. For the opposite bearing file off 
the point of a 1 -in. screw and also make 
a small hole in the end of this to fit 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



the other point of the axle. Then put 
the screw into the second block at the 
same height as the hole in the piece of 
brass on the first block. Fasten these 
bearings to a base made of a board 1 ft. 
long- and 6 in. wide. A fairly good idea 
of the way the wheel is to be mounted 
may be obtained from the sketch. 

The turbine is now complete and 
ready to run. Meat is obtained from 
an alcohol lamp or Bunsen burner and 
when under full steam the wheel will 
revolve with considerable rapidity. — 
Contributed by E. 11. Klipstein, East 
( (range, N. J. 



How to Make a Pair of Dumb-Bells 

Any boy can make a pair of dumb- 
bells for himself and a lifting weight, 
also, which will do quite as well as any 
he could purchase, providing he does 
his work carefully. 

First procure two large tin cans, such 
as fruit is often canned in, and cut the 
ends out of each. Shape four round 
pieces nf wood just large enough to fit 
tightly in the ends of the cans and then 
cut a hole in the center of each piece 
of wood as shown in Fig. 1. Procure, 
also, a hardwood bar the length of the 
ordinary dumb-bell — a length of old 
broom handle will do very well. 

For filling the cans mix 1 part of ce- 
ment with 2 parts of sand and add wa- 
ter until it is soft, but still has a de- 
gree of firmness. Pack this closely 



length of rod between (Fig. 2). It is 
well to first string the two inner disks 
on the bar and then drive a few nails 
through each end of it before pushing 
into the cement, to give it a grip. The 
disks are then pushed along the rod to 



0=<D 




Dumb-Bells and Lifting Weight 



fit into the open end of each can. Put 
a wedge in each end of the can to hold 
the bar in place. The other dumb-bell 
is made in the same manner. 

At thi> stage let the bells stand 
for five days or until the cement is 
perfectly dry, then remove bits nf wood 
and tin until only the cement is left. 
Cement dumb-bells may be filed into 
shape as in Fig. •'!. anil painted, also, 
if desired. 

Figure I shows a lifting weight made 
of cement. Its construction is very 
simple. The cement is packed into a 
wooden mould previously prepared and 
an iron rod with a ring is thrust in at 
the top. When the cement is dry the 
wi oden mould is removed. 



A cocoanut mav be easily broken by 
making two holes in the shell, extract- 



ors! 



^sr*--- 





Cemen-t 

L/_y_/ 

rV-~ ^\~/T~ 
' Cerwf ot 



3 



Details of Dumb-Bell Constr 



into the cans and insert the wooden 
disks into the ends of the cans. Insert 
the hardwood bar through the holes in 
the inside disks so that it runs clear 
through the center of each can 
ment, and joins the cans with a proper 



ing the milk, applying air pressure by 
blowing in the holes and quickly 
throwing it to the floor. 



Never change a single ball in a bear- 
ig. Renew them all. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A Home-Made Magic Lantern 



The essential parts of a magic lantern 
are a condensing lens to make the beam 
of light converge upon the slide to 
illuminate it evenly, a projecting lens 




with which to throw an enlarged pic- 
ture of the illuminated slide upon a 
screen and some appliances for pre- 
serving the proper relation of these 
parts to each other. The besl ol 
materials should be used and the parts 
put together with care to produce a 
clear picture on the screen. 

The first to make is the lamp house 
oi box to hold the light. Our illustra- 
tion shows the construction for an 
electric light, yet the same box may be 
used for q;is or an oil lamp, provided 
the material is of metal. A tin box 
having dimensions somewhere near 
those given in the diagrammatic sketch 
may be secured from your local grocer, 
but if such a box is not found, one can 
be made from a piece of tin cut as 
shown in Fig. 1. When this metal is 
bent at right angles on the dotted lines 
it will form a box as shown in Fig. 2 



which is placed on a baseboard, Y* to 
3 /± in. thick, 8 in. wide, and 14 in. long. 
This box should be provided with a 
reflector located just back of the lamp. 

Procure a plano-convex or a bi-con- 
vex 6-in. lens with a focal length of 
from 15 to 20 in. and a projecting lens 
2 in. in diameter with such a focal 
length that will give a picture of the 
required size, or a lens of 12-in. focus 
enlarging a 3-in. slide to about (i ft. at 
a distance of 24 ft. 

The woodwork of the lantern should 
be of '--in., well seasoned pine, white 
wood or walnut and the parts fastened 
together with wood screws, wire brads, 
or glue, as desired. The board in which 
to mount the condensing lens is 16 in. 
wide and 15 in. high, battened on both 
ends to keep the wood from warping. 
The board is centered both ways, and, 
at a point 1 in. above the center, de- 
scribe a 9-in. circle witli a compass and 
saw the wood out with a scroll or key- 
hole saw. If a small saw is used, and 
the work carefully done, the circular 
piece removed will serve to make the 
smaller portion of the ring for holding 
the condensing lens. This ring is made 
up fii mi two rings, A and B, Fig. 3. 
The inside and outside diameters of the 
ring B are % in. greater than the cor- 
responding diameters of ring A, so 
when fastened together concentrically 
an inner rabbet is formed for the recep- 
tion of the lens and an outer rabbet to 
tit against the board C in and against 
which it rotates being held in place by 
buttons, DD. 








Magic Lantern Details 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A table, E, about 2 ft. long is fas- 
tened to the board C with brackets F 
and supported at the outer end with a 
standard. The slide support, G, and the 
lens slide, H, are constructed to slip 
easily on the table, E, the strips II 
serving as guides. Small strips of tin, 
J J, are bent as shown and fastened at 
the top and bottom of the rectangular 
opening cut in the support G for hold- 
ing the lantern slides. 

All the parts should be joined to 
gether snugly and the movable parts 
made to slide freely and when all is 
complete and well sandpapered, apply 
two coats of shellac varnish. Place 
the lamphouse on the bottom board be- 
hind the condensing lens and the 
lantern is ready for use. 

The proper light and focus may be 
obtained by slipping the movable parts 
on the board E, and when the righl 
position is found for each, all lantern 
slides will produce a clear picture on 
the screen, if the position of the lantern 
and screen is not changed. — Con- 
tributed by Stuart Mason Kerr, St. 
Paul, Mimi. 



A Quickly Made Lamp 

A very simple lamp can be made 
from materials which are available in 
practically every household in the fol- 
lowing manner: 
A cheap lTiss 
tumbler is partly 
filled with water 
and then about 
1 L . in. of safe, 
light burning nil, 
placed on the 
water. Cut a 
thin strip from 
an ordinary cork 
and make a hole 
in the center to 
carry a short 
piece of wick. 
The wick should 
be of such a length as to dip into the 
oil, but not long enough to reach the 
water. The upper surface of the cork 
may be protected from the flame with 
a small piece of tin bent over the edges 




and a hole punched in the center for 
the wick. The weight of the tin will 
force the cork down into the oil. The 
level of the oil should be such as to 
make the flame below the top of the 
tumbler and the light then will not be 
blown out with draughts. The ar- 
rangement is quite safe as, should the 
glass happen to upset, the water at 
once extinguishes the flame. — Contrib- 
uted bv G.' P. B. 



How to Make a Paper Aeroplane 

A very interesting and instructive 
toy aeroplane can be made as shown in 
the accompanying illustrations. A sheet 





Folding the Paper 

of paper is first folded. Fig. 1, then the 
corners on one end are doubled over, 
Fig. ".', and the whole piece finished up 
and held together with a paper clip as 
in Fig. •'!. The paper clip to be used 
should be like the one shown in Fig. 4. 
If one of these clips j> not at hand, 
form a piece of wire in the same shape, 
as it will be needed for balancing pur- 
as well as for holding the paper 
together. Grasp the aeroplane between 
the thumb and forefinger at the place 
marked A in Fig. ■'!, keeping the paper 
as level as possible and throwing it as 
you would a dart. The aeroplane will 
make an easy and graceful flight in a 
room where no air will strike it. — Con- 
tributed bv T. H. Crawford, Schenec- 
tady, N. Y. 



Banana oil or amyl acetate is a 
bronze liquid. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Make Your Own Fishing Tackle 



If yuu want to fish and engage in 
siime other spurt at the same time, you 





Fig. 1— The Fishing S< 

should by all means have a fishing 
semaphore. This instantly shows from 

a distance when a fish is on the hook, 
and any boy 
c a n m a k e it. 
The line may be 
bailed and set, 
a n d the fisher 
can give his at- 
tention ti i other 
thin g s, with 
n n 1 y an i icca- 
sinnal glance at 
the signal. To make the semaphore 
lake a piece of board about 12 in. square 
and '.' in. thick. If a single piece cannot 
be obtained, build a block of this size 
i nit i if small stuff. Bore a hole in the 
center 1 in. in diameter and drive a 
piece of timber 3 in. square and 12 or 
15 in. long into it. Now take a piece of 
wood 2 in. wide and ■"> in. long for the 
semaphore and round two of the cor- 
ners, as shown in the cut. Bore a small 
hole 2V2 i' 1 - from the tapered end and 
fasten the board to the scantling by 



Toy Fishing 






W%B "■■■ 5. 



JRWW XYJ> 



j&jfTM&y or JW&Z- 



mar: 



M."*— S- 



Fig. 3— Method of Making a Trout Rod 

driving a small round nail at A (Fig. 
1). Drive another nail at 1'.. leaving 
the nail head protrude >-j in. from the 
upright to serve as a rest for the sema- 



phore. The board should be made to 
turn easily on the pivot nail. At C 
fasten a strip of thin sheet iron, bent 
flat at the top, so as to support the 
semaphore in place when it is sprung — ■ 
that is, when it rises to indicate a fish 
is caught. The free end of this strip 
or spring rests on the outside of the 
semaphore when it is down, and sup- 
ports it when it is up. It should not 
press too tightly against the signal. At 
D drive a small nail and attach the fish- 
ing line. When the fish takes the hook 
it will throw the signal up to a horizon- 
tal position and the spring C will hold 
it there. The semaphore may be 
painted red, or white, or to bear the 
'vi ird "Fish." 

Bass and pickerel have an irresistible 
hankering for bait mi a hook trolled by 
toy boats. These boats serve the pur- 
pose, however rudely made, and one 
boy can operate a whole fleet of them, 
if lie has a large boat by which he can 
row to any one of the small boats imme- 
diately when he notes a fish is hooked. 
The lioats can be made of a piece of 
plank, say '.' ' L . ft. long. The board 
should be sharpened at one end and 
rigged up with a couple of cloth masts 
(Fig. "'). The most important part of 
the craft is the rudder. This should be 
very long, to prevent the boat from 
making leeway and to keep it from 
changing its course. Drive a couple of 
nails in the stern of the boat, to which 
tie the fish lines, hooked with spoon 
or live bait. The small boat does not 
scare the fish as a large one does, and 
the bait pulled along by it is wonder- 
fully attractive to members of the finny 
tribe, especially when trolled before the 
wind. 

If proper fishing tackle is not acces T 
sible, it is very easy to manufacture it 
yourself. To make a trout rod first 
secure a long, straight, elastic pole, such 
as can be found in nearly any wood. 
Then secure some pins and a small 
piece of wire. File off the heads of the 
pins and bend them in the shape of the 
letter U and drive them in the rod on 
the same side at regular intervals, be- 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



17 



ginning at about 2 1 /-. ft. from the butt 
end of the pole. Drive the pins just far 
enough in to permit the line to pass 
freely under the loop. To make the 
tip bend a circular loop in the center of 
a piece of wire and knot or bind the 
wire to the end of the pole, as shown in 
the illustration (Fig. 3). If you have 
plenty of wire, it will make better 1. h .ps 
than the pins. Cut the wire into short 
pieces about 3 in. long, loop each piece 
in the center. Then with more wire or 
with strong, waxed thread, bind the 
ends lengthwise on the rod, as shown 
in the illustration (Fig. •'!). After the 
binding is secure, twist each loop 
around to its proper position. 

A large wooden spool, an old tin can 
and a thick wire will serve to make an 
Al reel. Run the wire through the 
spool and wedge it tightly so that 1 in. 
protrudes at one end and 3 in. at the 
other. From a tin can cut a piece of tin 
of the shape shown in Fig. I. Two 
protruding parts are left on each side 
to be bent up for side pieces, to serve 
as rests for the axle. After the side 
pieces are bent up in the proper shape, 
punch a hole in each and insert the 
ends of the wires through the holes. 
See that the spool revolves freely, and 
then bend the long end of the wire in 
the shape of a crank. Hammer the tin 
over the rod until it takes the exact 
curve of the rod and fits snugly. Then 
bind it firmly to the rod with strong 
twine. It is difficult to make a fish 




hook, though many good perch and 
cats have been caught with bent pins. 
A strong steel wire can be bent and 
filed to a point and a notch filed above 
the point for the barb. Fish hooks 



have been made of birds' claws. The 
claw is bound to a piece of shell by 
vegetable fiber. None of these home- 
made hooks are satisfactory, however, 




Simple Minnow Net 

and it is better to carry a good supply 
with you. Inside the hat band is a 
good place to carry small hooks. 

Live minnows are the best bait for 
black bass, pickerel and many other 
kinds of fish, and to catch live min- 
nows you need a net. (Due of the sim- 
plest minnow nets is made by fasten- 
ing two sticks to the ends of a stout 




piece of mosquito bar. If desired, the 
net may lie provided with floats at the 
top edge and sinkers at the bottom, as 
in the illustration ( big. •">). ( >ld sieves 
and pieces of meshed wire can often 
be transformed into ideal minnow nets. 
A good landing net may be made 
from a forked stick and a piece of 
strong mosquito bar, or preferably a 
ball of twine. Mend the two ends of 
the fork until the ends overlap each 
other and bind them tightly together, 
as shown in the cut (Fig. 6). Waxed 
twine serves best in all such binding 
work in making reels, nets and other 
tackle. Xow, if the net is to lie made 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



of mosquito bar, sew the mosquito bar 
into the shape of a bag and fasten the 
mouth to the sides of the loop described 
by the connected forks of the stick. A 
better net is made from twine. Fasten 




Weaving the Scoop Net 

the pole in a handy place, with the 
hoop suspended vertically a little 
higher than your neck. Cut a number 
of pieces of twine each about 8 ft. long. 
Double each piece and slip it on the 
loop with the loose ends hanging down. 
Arrange the double strings this way all 
around the loop. Now begin from a 
convenient point, take a string from 
each adjoining pair and make a simple 
knot of them, as shown in the diagram 
(Fig. 7). Continue all the way around 
the loop, knotting the strings together 
in this manner. Now begin on the 
next lower row, and so on until a point 
is reached where you believe the net 
ought to commence to narrow or taper 
down. This is accomplished by knot- 
ting the strings a little closer together 
and cutting off one string of a pair at 
four equidistant points in the same row. 
Knot as before until you come to a 
clipped line ; here take a string from 
each side of the single one and knot 
them, being careful to make it come 
even with others in the same row. Be- 
fore tightening the double knot pass 




How to Fasten a Minnow on a Hook 

the single string through, and after 
tying a knot close to the double one, 




Continue as before until the row is 
finished, only changing from the first 
plan when a single string is reached. 
Proceed in the same manner with the 
next and the next rows, diminishing 
the number of strings remaining until 
the remaining ones 
meet at the bottom. 
Be careful not to let 
one drop mesh come 
directly under another 
of the same kind. 

A bucket or old tin 
can with the top and 
sides perforated b y 
means of a nail and 
hammer (Fig. 8), will 
serve as ami n n o w 
bucket. The illustra- 
tion (Fig. 9) shows 
the proper way to bait 
a live minnow. The 
mouth of the minnow 
no feeling in it, and when thus baited 
the minnow is not killed and swims 
about promiscuously, thus standing a 
much better chance of catching a fish 
than when cruelly mangled by the hook 
of the ignorant fisherman. 



a hook with 
cartilaginous 
has little or 



How to See Through Your Hand 

Roll a tube out of a piece of paste- 
board about 5 in. square, having one 
end just large enough to fit around the 
eye and the other slightly smaller. 
Take the tube between the thumb and 
finger of the right hand and put the 
large end close against the right eye. 
Hold your left hand against the other 
end of the tube and keep both eyes 
open. There will appear to be a hole 
through your hand and objects beyond 
it will be plainly visible. The left eye 
is actually doing all the seeing of ob- 
jects beyond, but it will seem like the 
right eye sees them, too, through the 
hand. 

Always put a washer on a lag-screw 
before turning it into the wood. 



cut the stnm 



close as at A. 



It is not economy to save emery 
wheels by neglecting to keep them true 
and sharp. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A Film Washing Trough 

The washing of films without scratch- 
ing them after they are developed 
and fixed is very difficult in hot 
weather. A convenient washing 
trough for washing full length films is 
shown in the accompanying sketch. 
The trough must be made for the size 
of the film to be washed. Cut a *4-in. 
board as long as the film and a trifle 
wider than the film's width. Attach 
strips to the edges of the board to keep 
the water from spilling over the sides. 

Cut a hole in one side of a baking- 
powder can about half way between 
the top and bottom, large enough to 
admit a fair-sized stream of water from 
a faucet. Then solder the cover to the 
can and punch a number of holes about 
% in. apart along the opposite side 
from where the large hole was cut. 
Place this can on one end of the trough, 
as shown, with the large hole up. 

Some heavy wire bent in the shape 
of a U and fastened to the under side 
of the trough at the can end will fur- 
nish supports to keep that end of the 
trough the highest and place the open- 
ing in the can close beneath the water 
faucet. A common pin stuck through 





C.Br :, *%\«r*t "5 



* 


Am S v w r .i t- 




Bur 
glass a 


it wood work done with an ordinary reading 
nd the sun's rays. 



one end of the film and then in the 
trough close to the can will hold it in 
position for washing. Five minutes' 
washing with this device is sufficient 
to remove all traces of the hypo from 
the film.— Contributed by M. M. Hunt- 
ing, Dayton, O. 



Negative Film 



The Diving Bottle 

This is a very interesting and easily 
performed experiment illustrating the 
transmission of pressure by liquids. 
Take a wide-mouthed bottle and fill 
almost full of water ; then into this bot- 
tle place, mouth downward, a small vial 
or bottle having just enough air in the 
bottle to keep it barely afloat. Put a 
sheet of rubber over the mouth of the 
large bottle, draw the edge down over 
the neck and wrap securely with a piece 
of string thus forming a tightly 
stretched diaphragm over the top. 
When a finger is pressed on the rubber 



20 



POPULAR MECHANICS 




the small bottle is caused by the pres- 
sure transmitted through the water, 
thus causing the volume of air in the 
small tube to decrease and the bottle 
to descend and ascend when released as 
the air increases to the original volume. 
This experiment can be performed 
with a narrow-necked bottle, provided 
the bottle is wide, but not very thick. 
Place the small bottle in as before, tak- 
ing care not to have too much air in the 
bottom. If the cork is adjusted prop- 
erly, the bottle may be held in the 
hand and the sides pressed with the 
fingers, thus causing the small bottle 
to descend and ascend at will. If the 
small bottle used is opaque, or an 
opaque tube such as the cap of a foun- 
tain pen, many puzzling effects may 
be obtained. — Contributed by John 
Shahan, Auburn, Ala. 



How to Make an Inexpensive 
Wooden Fan 

Select a nice straight-grained piece 
of white pine about \\ in. thick. :t ( in. 
wide and -1 in. long. Lay out the 
design desired and cut as shown in 
Fig. 1, and then soak the wood in hot 
water to make it soft and easy to split. 
Cut the divisions very thin with a 
sharp knife down to the point A, as 
shewn in the sketch, taking care not 

to split the w 1 through the part left 

for the handle. The fan is then fin- 
ished by placing each piece over the 
other as in Fig. 2. This will make a 
very prettv ornament. — Contributed by 
Fred W. Whitehouse, Upper Troy, 
N. Y. 




Combination Telegraph and Tele- 
phone Line 

The accompanying diagrams show 
connections for a short line system 




Cutting the Wood and Complete Fan 



Wiring Diagram 

(metallic circuit) of telegraph where a 
telephone may be used in combination 
on the line. The telephone receivers 
can be used both as receivers and trans- 
mitters, or ordinary telephone trans- 
mitters, induction coils and battery may 
be used in the circuit with a receiver. 
If a transmitter is used, its batteries 
may be connected in circuit with a 
common push button which is held 
down when using the telephone. On a 
]000-ft. line, four dry cells will be suffi- 
cient for the telegraph instruments and 
two cells for the telephone. — Contrib- 
uted by D. W. Miller. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Miniature Windmill 



The following description is how a 
miniature windmill was made, which 
gave considerable power for its size, 
even in a light breeze. Its smaller 
parts, such as blades and pulleys, were 
constructed of 1-in. sugar pine on ac- 
count of its softness. 

The eight blades were made from 
pieces 1 by l 1 /' by 12 in. Two opposite 
edges were cut away until the blade 
was about l A in. thick. Two inches 



tended to the ground. The 2 '--in. ind- 
ie}-. I, Fig. 1, was keyed i" shaft C, as 
shown in Fig. I. The wire 1. was put 
through the hole in the axle and the 
two ends curved so as to pass through 
the two holes in the pulley, after which 
they were given a final bend to keep 
the pulley in place. The method by 
which the shaft C was kept from work- 
ing forward is shown in Fig. 5. The 
washer AI intervened between the 



3wi vel 



Bearing 




'Hut, ' C 

Details of Miniature Windmill Construction 



were left uncut at the hub end. They 
were then nailed to the circular face 
plate A, Fig. 1, which was 6 in. in di- 
ameter and 1 in. thick. The center of 

the hub was lengthened by the w len 

disk, 1!, Fig. 1, which was nailed to 
the face plate. The shaft C, Fig. 1, 
was ',4-in. iron rod, 5 ft. long, and 
turned in the bearings detailed in Fig. 
2. J was a nut from a wagon bolt and 
was placed in the bearing to insure easy 
running. The bearing blocks were •'! 
in. wide, 1 in. thick and •'! in. high with- 
out the upper half. Both bearings 
wen- made in this manner. 

The shaft C was keyed to the hub of 
the wheel, by the method shown in 
Fig. 3. A staple, EC, held the shaft from 
revolving in the hub. This method was 
also applied in keying the 5-in. pulley 
F, to the shaft, G, Fig. 1, which ex- 



bearing block and the wire N, which 
was passed through the axle and then 
bent to prevent its falling out. Two 
washers were placed on shaft C, be- 
tween the forward bearing and the hub 
of the wheel to lessen the friction. 

The bed plate D, Fig. 1, was 2 ft. 
long, •! in. wide and 1 in. thick and was 
tapered from the rear bearing to the 
slol in which the fan F was nailed. 
This fan was made of -/4-in. pine 18 by 
12 in. and was cut the shape shown. 

The two small iron pulleys with 
screw bases, II, Fig. 1, were obtained 
for a small sum from a hardware dealer. 
Their diameter was 1% in. The belt 
which transferred the power from shaft 
C to shaft G was top string, with a 
section of rubber in it to take up slack. 
To prevent it from slipping on the two 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



wooden pulleys a rubber Land was 
placed in the grooves of each. 

The point for the swivel bearing was 
determined by balancing the bed plate, 
with all parts in place, across the thin 
edge of a board. There a %-in. hole 
was bored in which shaft G turned. To 
lessen the friction here, washers were 
placed under pulley F. The swivel 
bearing was made from two lids of 
baking powder cans. A section was cut 
out of one to permit its being enlarged 
enough to admit the other. The smaller 
one, O, Fig. 6, was nailed top down, 
with the sharp edge to the underside 
of the bed plate, so that the ^-in. hole 
for the shaft G was in the center. The 
other lid, G, was tacked, top down also, 
in the center of the board P, with brass 
headed furniture tacks, R, Fig. 6, which 
acted as a smooth surface for the other 
tin to revolve upon. Holes for shaft 
G were cut through both lids. Shaft 



G was but VL in. in diameter, but to 
keep it from rubbing against the board 
P, a V^-in. hole was bored for it, 
through the latter. 

The tower was made of four 1 by 1- 
in. strips, 25 ft. long. They converged 
from points on the ground forming an 
8-ft. square to the board P at the top 
of the tower. This board was 12 in. 
square and the corners were notched 
to admit the strips as shown, Fig. 1. 
Laths were nailed diagonally between 
the strips to strengthen the tower later- 
ally. Each strip was screwed to a stake 
in the ground so that by disconnecting 
two of them the other two could be 
used as hinges and the tower could be 
tipped over and lowered to the ground, 
as, for instance, when the windmill 
needed oiling. Bearings for the shaft 
G were placed 5 ft. apart in the tower. 
The power was put to various uses. 



How to Make a Telegraph Instrument and Buzzer 



The only expenditure necessary in 
constructing this telegraph instrument 
is the price of a dry cell, providing one 
has a few old materials on hand. 

Procure a block of wood about 6 in. 
long and 3 in. wide and take the coils 
out of an old electric bell. If you have 
no bell, one may be had at the dealers 
for a small sum. Fasten these coils on 
the blocks at one end as in Fig. 1. 

Cut a piece of tin 2 in. long and % in. 
wide and bend it so the end of the tin 



shown in the illustration. This com- 
pletes the receiver or sounder. 

To make the key, cut out another 
piece of tin (X, Fig. 1) 4 in. long and 
bend it as shown. P.efore tacking it 
to the board, cut off the head of a nail 
and drive it in the board at a point 
where the loose end of the tin will cover 
it. Then tack the key to the board and 
connect the wires of the battery as in 
Fig. 1. Now, move the coils back and 
forth until the click sounds just the way 




Home-Made Telegraph Instrument 



when fastened to the block will come 
just above the core of the coil. Cut 
another piece of tin 3 in. long and bend 
it as shown at A, Fig. 2. Tack these 
two pieces of tin in front of the coils as 



you wish and you are ready to begin on 
the Morse code. 

When tired of this instrument, con- 
nect the wire from the coils to the key 
to point A and the one connected at 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



the point under the key to B, leaving 
the other wire as it is. By adjusting 
the coils the receiver will begin to 
vibrate rapidly, causing a buzzing 
sound. — Contributed by John R. Mc- 
Connell. 

How To Make a Water Bicycle 

Water bicvcles afford fine sport, and, 
like many another device boys make, 
can be made of material often cast off 
by their people as rubbish. The prin- 
cipal material necessary for the con- 
struction of a water bicycle is oil bar- 
rels. Flour barrels will not do — they 
are not strong enough, nor can they be 
made perfectly airtight. The grocer 
can furnish you with oil barrels at a 
very small cost, probably let you have 
them for making a few deliveries for 
him. Three barrels are required for 
the water bicycle, although it can be 
made with but two. Figure 1 shows 
the method of arranging the barrels; 
after the manner of bicycle wheels. 

Procure an old bicycle frame and 
make for it a board platform about 3 
ft. wide at the rear end and tapering 
to about 2 ft. at the front, using cleats 
to hold the board frame, as shown at 




Water Bicycle Complete 

the shaded portion K. The construc- 
tion of the barrel part is shown in Fig. 
2. Bore holes in the center of the heads 
of the two rear barrels and also in the 
heads of the first barrel and put a shaft 
of wood through the rear barrels and 
one through the front barrel, adjusting 
the side pieces to the shafts, as indi- 
cated. 

Next place the platform of the bicy- 
cle frame and connections thereon. Go- 
ing back to Fig. 1 we see that the driv- 
ing chain passes from the sprocket 



driver L of the bicycle frame to the 
place downward between the slits in 
the platform to the driven sprocket on 
the shaft between the two barrels. 
Thus a center drive is made. The rear 
barrels are fitted with paddles as at M, 
consisting of four pieces of board nailed 





Barrel Float (or Bicycle 

and cleated about the circumference of 
tlie barrels, as shown in Fig. 1. 

The new craft is now ready for a first 
voyage. To propel it, seat yourself on 
the bicycle seat, feet on the pedals, just 
as you would were you on a bicycle 
out in the street. The steering is ef- 
fected by simply bending the body to 
the right or left, which causes the craft 
to dip to the inclined side and the affair 
turns in the dipped direction. The 
speed is slow at first, but increases as 
the force is generated and as one be- 
comes familiar with the working of the 
affair. There is no danger, as the air- 
tight barrels cannot possibly sink. 

Another mode of putting too-ether 
the set of barrels, using one large one 
in the rear and a small one in the front 
is presented in Fig. •'!. These two bar- 
rels are empty oil barrels like the 
others. The head holes are bored and 
the proper wooden shafts are inserted 
and the entrance to the bores closed 
tight by calking with hemp and putty 
or clay. The ends of the shafts turn 
in the wooden frame where the re- 
quired bores are made to receive the 
same. If the journals thus made are 
well oiled, there will not be much fric- 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



on. Such a frame can be fitted with 
platform and a raft to suit one's in- 
ividual fancy built upon it, which can 




Type of Float 



; paddled about with ease and safety 
n any pond. A sail can be rigged up 
y using a mast and some sheeting; or 
ven a little houseboat, which will give 
n v amount of pleasure, can be built. 



low To Make a Small Searchlight 

The materials required for a small 
;archlight are a 1-volt lamp of the 
iop variety, thin sheet brass for the 
vlindcr, copper piping and brass tub- 
lg for ba<e. When completed the 
?archliglit may be fitted to a small 
oat and will afford a great amount of 
pleasure for a 
little work, or 
it may be put to 
other uses if de- 
sired. 

Make a cylin- 
der of wood of 
t h e required 
sheet of thin brass 
Shape small blocks of box- 
rood, D, Fig. 1, to fit the sides and 
ass stout pieces of brass wire through 
ae middle of the blocks for trunnions, 
'xactly through the middle of the sides 
f the cylinder drill holes just so large 
bat when the blocks containing the 
-minions are cemented to the cylinder 
here is no chance of contact between 
ylinder and trunnion, and so creating 
false circuit. 

The trunnion should project slightlyj 
ito the cylinder, and after the lamp 
as been placed in position by means 
f the small wood blocks shown in Fig. 
, the wires from the lamp should be 
oldered to the trunnions. It is best to 




solder the wire to the trunnions be- 
fore cementing the side blocks inside 
the cylinder. 

Turn a small circle of wood, A, Fig. 
2, inside the cylinder to fit exactly and 
fasten to it a piece of mirror, C, Fig. 2, 
exactly the same size to serve as a re- 
flector. Painting the wood with white 
enamel or a piece of brightly polished 
metal will serve the purpose. On the 
back of the piece of wood fasten a small 
brass handle, 1!, Fig. 2, so that it may 
readily be removed for cleaning. 

In front of cylinder place a piece of 
magnifying glass for a lens. If a piece 




to fit cannot be obtained, fit a glass 
like a linen tester to a small disc of 
wood or brass to fit the cylinder. If 
magnifying glass cannot be had, use 
plain glass and fit them as follows: 

Make two rings of brass wire to fit 
tightly into the cylinder, trace a circle 
I inside diameter of cylinder) on a piece 
of cardboard; place cardboard on glass 
and cut out glass with a glass cutter; 
break off odd corners with notches on 
cutters and grind the edge of the glass, 
on an ordinary red brick using plenty 
of water. Place one brass ring in cyl- 
inder, then the glass disc and then the 
other ring. 

For the stand fill a piece of copper 
piping with melted rosin or lead. When 
hard bend the pipe around a piece of 
wood which has been sawed to the 
shape of bend desired. Then melt out 
the rosin or lead. Make an incision 
with a half-round file in the under side 
of the tube for the wires to come 
through. Make the base of wood as 
shown in Fig. 1. One-half inch from 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



the top bore a hole large enough to 
admit the copper pipe and a larger hole 
up the center to meet it for the wires 
t«i come down. 

If it is desired to make the light very 
complete, make the base of two pieces 
of brass tube — one being a sliding fit 
in the other and with projecting pieces 
to prevent the cylinder from going too 
far. The light may then be elevated 
or lowered as wished. On two ordi- 
nary brass terminals twist or solder 
some flexible wire, but before doing so 
fix a little bone washer on the screws 
of the terminal so as to insulate it from 
the tube. When the wires have been 
secured to the terminals cover the joint 
with a piece of very thin india rubber 
tubing, such as is used for cycle valves. 
The two wires may now be threaded 
down the copper tube into the base, 
and pulled tight, the terminals firmly 
fixed into the tubes; if too small, some 
glue will secure them. To get the cyl- 
inder into its carriage, put one trun- 
nion into the terminal as far as it will 
go and this will allow room for the 
other trunnion to go in its terminal. 



Electric Alarm that Rings a Bell and 
Turns on a Light 

The illustration shows an alarm clock 
connected up to ring an electric bell, 
and at the same time turn on an electric 
light to show the time. The parts in- 
dicated are as follows : A, key of alarm 
clock ; B, contact post, 1 in. Ion- ; ( ', 
shelf. 5% by 10 in. : 1 >. bracket ; E, elec- 
tric bulb (31/0 volts) ; S. brass strip, t 1 i 
in. long, :! s in. wide and 1 16 in. thick; 
T, switch; F, wire from batteries to 
switch; G, wire from bell to switch; 
II, wire from light to switch; I, dry 
batteries; J. bell; X, point where a 
splice is made from the light to wire 
leading to batteries from brass strip 
under cluck. Push the switch lever to 
the right before retiring. 

To operate this, set alarm key as 
shown in diagram, after two turns have 
been made on the key. When alarm 
goes off, it turns till it forms a con- 
nection by striking the contact post and 
starts the electric bell ringing. Throw 



lever off from the right to center, which 
stops bell ringing. To throw on light 
throw levers to the left. The bell is 
then cut out but the light remains on 
till lever is again thrown in the center. 




Details of Alarm Construction 

In placing clock on shelf, after set- 
ting alarm, be sure that the legs "I 
clock are on the brass strip and that 
the alarm key is in position so it will 
come in contact with the contact post 
in back of clock. The contact post may 
be of 7 4-iii. copper tubing, or ^-in. 
brass rod. 

The advantage of this is that one can 
control the bell and light, while lying 
in bed, by having the switch on the 
baseboard, near the bed, so it can be 
reached without getting out of bed. — 
Contributed by Geo. C. Brinkerhoff, 
Swissvale, Pa. 



How to Hold a Screw on a 
Screwdriver 

A screw that is taken from a place 
almost inaccessible with the fingers re- 
quires considerable patience to return 
it with an ordinary screwdriver unless 
some holding-on device is used. I have 
found that by putting a piece of card- 
board or thick paper with the blade of 
1 lie screwdriver in the screw head slot, 
the screw may be held and turned into 
places that it would be impossible with 
the screwdriver alone. — Contributed by 
C. Chatland, Ogden, Utah. 



26 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Lead Cannon 

Any l)ii>- who has a little mechanical 
ability can make a very reliable cannon 
for his Fourth <>f July celebration by 
following the instructions given here: 



=4 



V 

A 
Fio.l 




Take a stick (a piece of curtain roller 
will do) ", in. long. Make a shoulder 
i- at A, Fig. 1, 1 in. from one end, mak- 
ing it as true and smooth as possible, 
'is this is to he the muzzle of the can- 
non. Make the spindle as in Fig. 1, 
\\ in. in diameter. Procure a good 
[uality of stiff paper about G in. wide 
ind wrap it around the shoulder of the 
stick, letting it extend :; | in. beyond 
the end of the spindle, as at 1'.. Fig. 2. 
Push an ordinary shingle nail through 
die paper and into the extreme end of 
the spindle as at A. Fig. ".'. This is to 
form the fuse h, ile. 

Having finished this, place stick and 



all in a pail of sand, being careful not 
to get the sand in it and letting the 
opening at the top extend a little above 
the surface of the sand. Then fill the 
paper cylinder with melted lead and 
let cool. Pull out the nail and stick, 
scrape off the paper and the cannon is 
ready for mounting as in Fig. 3. — Con- 
tributed by Chas. S. Chapman, Lanes- 
boro, Minn. 



How to Waterproof Canvas 

The method used by the Pritish navy 
yards for waterproofing and painting 
canvas so it will not become stiff and 
cracked is as follows: One ounce of 
yellow- soap and ' - pt. of hot water are 
mixed with every ? lb. of paint you 
wish to use. The mixture is applied to 
the canvas with a brush. This is 
allowed to dry for two days and then a 
coat of the same paint without the 
soap is laid on. When this last coat is 
dry the canvas may he painted any 
color desired. After three days of dry- 
ing the canvas may be folded up with- 
out sticking together, and, of course, 
it is waterproof. The canvas water- 
proofed in this manner makes an ex- 
cellent covering for portable canoes and 
canvas boats. The color mixture for 
the soap and second application is made 
from 1 11 1. of lampblack and <! lb. of yel- 
low ochre, both in oil; the finish coat 
may he any color you wish. When no 
paint is to he used on the canvas it 
may he waterproofed with a mixture 
made from soft soap dissolved in hot 
water, and a solution of iron sulphate 
added. Iron sulphate, or ferrous sul- 
phate, i-- the green vitriol. The vitriol 
combines with the potash of the soap, 
and the iron oxide is precipitated with 
the fatty acid as insoluble iron soap. 
This precipitate is then washed, dried 
and mixed with linseed oil and applied 
to the canvas. This will render the 
cloth waterproof at the same time the 
material is quite flexible and not in- 
clined ti i crack. 



Pelt laces should never cross on the 
side next to the pulley as they will cut 
themselves in two. 



POPULAR MECHANICS -'■ 

How to Make a Crossbow and Arrow Sling- 
In the making of this crossbow it is opposite end, which should be slanting 
best to use maple for the stock, but if a little as shown by the dotted lines, 
this wood cannot be procured, good A spring, Fig. 2, is made from a good 
straight-grained pine will do. The piece of oak and fastened to the stock 




Details of the Bow-Gu 

material must ho I 1 - in. thick, (i in. 
wide and a trifle over -^ it. Ion-. The 
how is made from straight-grained oak, 
ash, or hickory, % in. thick, 1 in. wide 
and :! ft. long. A piece of oak, :; s i"- 
thick, 1 ' L . in. wide and (1 ft. long, will 
he sufficient to make the trigger, spring 
and arrows. A piece of tin, some nail ; 
and a good cord will complete the 
materials necessary to make the cross- 
how. 

The piece of maple or pine selected 
for the stock must he planed and sand- 
papered on b< >th sides, and then marked 
and cut as shown in Fig. 1. A groove 
is cut for the arrows in the top straight 
edge % in. wide and :; s in. deep. The 

tin is bent and fastened on the w 1 

at the hack end of the groove where 
the cord slips out of the notch; this- is 
to keep the edges from splitting. 

A mortise is cut for the how at a 
point 'i 1 ■_. in. from the end oi the stock, 
and one for the trigger 12 in. from the 



Arrow Sling 

with two screws. The trigger, Fig. •">, 
which is \ >\ in. thick, is inserted in the 
mortise in the position when pulled 
hack, and adjusted so as to raise the 
spring to the proper height, and then 
a pin is put through both stock' and 
trigger, having the latter swing quite 
freely. When the trigger is pulled, it 
lifts the spring up, which in turn lifts 
rd off the tin notch. 

The stick for the how, Fig. I. is 
dressed down from a point '■'• \ in. on 
each side of the center line to U> in. 
wide at each end. Notches are cut in 
the ends for the cord. The how is not 
fastened in the stock, it is wrapped 
with a piece of canvas 1H in. wide on 
the center line to make a tight lit in 
the mortise. A stout cord is now tied 
in the notches cut in the ends of the 
how making the cord taut when the 
w< » id is straight. 

The design of the arrows is shown 
in Fig. 5 and they are made with the 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



blades much thinner than the round 
part. 

To shoot the crossbow, pull the cord 
back and down in the notch as shown 
in Fig. (i, place the arrow in the groove, 
sight and pull the trigger as in shoot- 
ing an ordinary gun. 

The arrow sling is made from a 
branch of ash about x /-> in. in diameter, 
the bark removed and a notch cut in 
one end, as shown in Fig. 7. A stout 
cord about 2\i> ft. long is tied in the 
notch and a large knot made in the 
other or loose end. The arrows are 
practically the same as those used on 
the crossbow, with the exception of a 
small notch which is cut in them as 
shown in Fig. 8. 

To throw the arrow, insert the cord 
near the knot in the notch of the arrow, 
then grasping the stick with the right 
hand and holding the wing of the arrow 
with the left, as shown in Fig. 0. throw 
the arrow with a quick slinging motion. 
The arrow mav be thrown several 
hundred feet after a little practice- 
Contributed by O. E. Trownes, Wil- 
mette, 111. 



A Home-Made Vise 
Cut two pieces of wood in the shape 
shown in the sketch and bore a %-in. 
hole through both of them for a com- 
mon carriage bolt. Fasten one of the 
pieces to the edge of the bench with 
a large wood screw and attach the 
other piece to the first one with a piece 
of leather nailed across the bottom of 
both pieces. The nut on the carriage 
licit mav be tightened with a wrench, 




or, better still, a key filed out of a piece 
of soft steel to fit the nut. The edges 
of the jaws are faced with sheet metal 
which can be copper or steel suitable 
for the work it is intended to hold. 




Temporary Dark Room Lantern 

Occasionally through some accident 
to the regular ruby lamp, or through 
the necessity of developing while out 
of reach of a properly equipped dark- 
room, some makeshift of illumination 
must be improvised. Such a temporary 
safe light may be 
made from an 
empty cigar box 
in a short time. 

Remove the 
bottom of the 
box, and nail it 
in p o s i t i o n as 
shown at A. Re- 
in o v e one end, 
a n d replace as 
shown at 1'.. 
Drive a short 
wire nail through the center of the op- 
posite end to serve as a seat for the 
candle, C. The lamp is finished by 
tacking two or more layers of yellow 
post-office paper over the aperture D, 
bringing the paper well around to the 
sides and bottom of the box to prevent 
light leakage from the cracks around 
the edges, says Photo Era. The hinged 
cover F, is used as a door, making 
lighting and trimming convenient. The 
dour may be fastened with a nail or 
piece of wire. It is well to reinforce 
the hinge by gluing on a strip of cloth 
if the lamp is to be in use more than 
once or twice. This lamp is safe, for 
the projecting edges of A and B form 
light-shields for the ventilation orifice 
and the crack at the top of the hinged 
cover, respectively. Moreover, since 
the flame of the candle is above A, only 
reflected and transmitted light reaches 
the plate, while the danger of igniting 
the paper is reduced to a minimum. 



Details of a Home-Made Bench Vise 



The paint will sag and run if too 
much oil is put in white lead. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

Camps and How to Build Them 



For a short camping excursion, or 
for use while the permanent camp is 
being built, nothing is more novel and 
delightful than the temporary camp 
built of the materials ever ready in the 
woods. 

The simplest form of all perhaps is 
the Indian camp. To build this, cut an 
evergreen tree nearly through about 
5 ft. above the base of the trunk, so 
that when the top falls the butt will 
still be attached to the stump. Hollow 
out the under side of the treetop by 
removing boughs and branches. Use 
the trunk of the fallen part as a ridge 
pole and bank boughs and branches 
from it to the ground on either side. 
The shelter thus formed will be very 
comfortable, but there are other kinds 




better calculated to protect from heavy 
rainstorms. A wigwam sheds rain well 
because its sides are so steep. Set up 
three long poles in the form of a pyra- 
mid and tie their tops together. Fill 
the open spaces with poles set at the 
same slant about 1 ft. apart at the 
ground and fastened at the t> ip as be- 
fore. Thatch the outside closely with 
branches and brush. 

There are several ways to build a 
brush camp, but they all have many 
similar points. The ridge pole for such 
a camp (about 8 ft. long) may be placed 
between two trees at a height of about 
6 ft., or between two crotched poles set 
firmly in the ground for the purpose. 
Long branches may be used to form 
the sides, but the best method is to lay 
straight poles on a slant from the ridge- 
pole to tlie ground, about 8 in. apart. 
Begin at the bottom and thatch the 
sides to the top to a depth of about 1 
ft. with hemlock or cedar boughs, lav- 
ing them with the feather side down ; 



by means of poles weight down the 
thatch. Such a shelter carefully made 
will withstand heavy rains. 



'-'^ 







Another camp in high favor among 
campers for temporary shelter is the 
lean-to; this may be an open lean-to — 
that is, without ends — or closed as de- 
sired and may lie thatched with either 
bark or brush. Select two crotched 
poles about ? ft. long and set in the 
ground. Lay another p. >le acn iss these, 
with its ends resting in the crotches 
of the other poles. From this pole slant 
three other poles to the ground. Push 
the ends of them well into the earth 
and fasten securely by means of 
crotched sticks placed over them and 
driven into the ground. Across these 
last three poles lay cross-sticks, on 




which pile brush and weight it down 
with other poles. Build up the sides in 
the same way. Where bark is used to 
thatch the lean-to the top side of the 
rafters should lie flattened so the bark 
can be nailed to them. Lark may also 



30 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



be used to thatch the wigwam, laying. 
it in overlapping courses, beginning at 
the bottom, and securing it by means 
of cord. 




To remove bark from trees, cut two 
circles 6 ft. apart completely around the 
tree and join the cuts thus made by a 
vertical cut and pry away the bark by 
means of an axe. It is must readily re- 
moved in the early summer. Lay the 
bark on the ground to dry for a few 
daws, weighting it down with stones, 
after which it is ready for use. 




Hemlock, spruce or cedar boughs, 
having all large boughs removed so 
that only fine branches are left, piled 
to a depth of 2 ft. and with the blankets 
or sleeping bag on these, make the best 
bed for the temporary shelter. An- 
other form of bed can be made by sew- 
ing deep hems in each side of a piece 
of heavy duck canvas about 40 in. wide 
and G ft. long. Set four forked poles 
in the ground, run poles "i ft. long and 
2 in. in diameter through the hems of 
the canvas and set up on the forked 
poles so it is about a foot above the 
ground. 




Table and Cha 



fresh water within easy reach is essen- 
tial. Shade for the hottest part of the 
day should be considered also. Other 
considerations vary with the party, the 
duration of the outing, the country sur- 
rounding, etc. 

To make a crane set two green sticks 
2 in. thick and 3 ft. long into the ground 
a foot from either end of the fire. Split 
the top ends with an axe and provide 
another stick as a support. A pair of 
tongs may be made from a piece of 
tough green wood, which should be 
■p/o in. in diameter, 3 ft. long and of 
snme wood, such as elm, or hickory, 
which will bend easily. Cut it half way, 




In selecting a site for a cam]) always 
remember that above everything else 



Broom of Hemlock Twigs 

a distance of 1 ft. in the center, heat 
the center over a bed of coals until it 
will bend together without breaking, 
whittle into shape and fasten the two 
arms in position by means of a cross- 
piece. Shape the ends so they will 
catch hold of anything that has dropped 
into the fire. A round stick several feet 
lung will serve as a poker. 

To make a broom bind hemlock 
twigs around one end of a stick, using 
wire ur stout cord to hold them in place. 
Stools are easily made by sawing a 
3-in. block from a log 1 ft. thick. Bore 
three holes in one side of the block, 
into which drive pegs. A back may be 
added if desired. 

For a rude table set four posts in the 
ground, nail /rtsssssS^^t^S. 
cross-pieces on %sSv"^.v- v ^XjL 
top, and ewer />0>\f >- J§ 

with slabs cut ^J^ ■^.^JJP' 
from soft wood 
log s. At the 
right height for 
seats nail 
pieces on t h e 
legs to extend out on each side and re- 
ceive slabs which will serve as seats. 

Many other articles of use about the 
temporary camp can be made from 
such materials as the timber affords. 
Such things as nails, cord, an axe, etc., 





ol Made of a Block 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



3] 



are indispensable to the camping out- 
fit. 

No place could be more picturesque 
and cozy than the log cabin camp, es- 
pecially where care in choosing its site 
has been exercised. 

Aside from the boating, hunting and 
fishing advantages of the camp's loca- 
tion, the scenery surrounding it should 
be considered; it should not be near a 
swamp, but on high dry ground and. 
if possible, near a running stream, but 
always near pure, fresh water. Plan 



Cut all the others, save those at the 
ends between the corner posts, on a 
level with the first one. Those at the 




How the Logs Lock at the C 



the building to harmonize with its site. 
Clear away all decayed trees which 
might fall on the cabin, stake on I the 
structure according to the plans and 
clear off the place it is to occupy. For 
foundation posts use cedar if possible, 
but tamarack, pine or hemlock will do. 
Select sound timber about 1'.' in. in di- 
ameter and 5 ft. long. Dig post holes 
down to solid ground or rock, or about 
."> ft. deep; set the posts, tamping the 




earth firmly around them. There 
should be a post under each angle and 
corner of the building and where these 
are quite a distance apart, as many in 
between as necessary. In a distance of 
20 ft. there should be four posts, in- 
cluding those at the corners, and in 1 2 
ft., three posts. After the posts are set, 
mark the one in highest ground 1<> in. 
above the ground and cut off squarely. 




Framing and Beveling the Rafters 

ends between the corner posts cut 1 
in. higher. 

Stone foundation piers, instead of 
posts, may be made by digging pits :i 
ft. deep and 2 ft. in diameter, filling 
them up with small stones to -round 
level and laying large cobble-stones on 
top of these, chinking up with small 
stones any places that may remain 
i ipen. 

For building the cabin use straight, 
sound timber from 6 to in in. in diame- 
ter. Tamarack, balsam, pine, spruce 
and hemlock are all good for the pur- 
pose. Each log should be cut 2 ft. 
longer than the side of the building in 
which it is to be used. Where the (ops 
of the trees are straight and sound they 
may be used for rafters, joists, etc. If 
the timber is brought some distance to 
the building site, it should be placed on 
skids and thus hauled to camp. 

For the first tier of logs select the 
strongest, best shaped and largest of 
all. These sills, as the\ are called, 
should l>e flattened on the upper side 
from end to end and in a straight line, 
and at the narrowest part of the log 
the flattened space should be •"■ in. wide. 
Place them on the foundation piers so 
that the flattened surfaces are level 
with each other. All the other loes 




for the walls flatten on both sides. 
When the sills are laid cut notches in 
the logs and lay the floor sleepers. 



32 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



To join the logs at the corners, on 
the under side a foot from each end 
cut a hollow which will fit over the 
round side of the log beneath. Place 




Crosspieces Where Joists Are Cut for Openings 

the logs si i the large and small ends of 
them come alternately. Lay the logs 
carefully, being sure that each log is 
properly laid before proceeding with 
another. Continue laying the tiers un- 
til the height of the tops of the win- 
dows and doors is reached. At this 
point saw out the top log the proper 
width of each window and door to he 
made, lay the next tier of logs and then 
resume sawing out the openings for 
windows and doors. 

1 rave ready door and window frames 
made of boards 1 in. thick and planed 
on one side. Xail them in the open- 
ings to hold the loose ends of the logs. 




Partition Made of Halved Logs 

Make the window sills slanting so they 
w ill shed water. 

If there are to he two floors to the 
cabin, at the height of the second floor 
lay peeled joists, which should he of 
straight sound timber 6 in. in diameter 
if the span is 12 ft.; thicker if the span 
is longer. Always place them so they 
will have the shortest span possible and 
about 3 ft. apart. Flatten their upper 
sides from end to end. using a chalk 
line and a broad axe for the purpose. 
To place the joists cut gains, as shown 
in cut, in the logs that receive the 
joists and make tenons on the ends of 



the logs. Use spikes to fasten them. 
Where partitions are to run the same 
way of the joist, place a strong joist 
under each one. At openings for stairs 
cut the joists at the proper places and 
put a crosspiece between two joists 
across the cuts, joining by means of 
gains and tenons as before. 

In putting up the rafters raise the 
gable rafters first. The best roof is 
a steep one. Select and flatten the 
rafters just as you did the joists. Frame 
their lower ends to fit the plate-logs 




The Door Latch 



and bevel their tops according to the 
slant of the roof. Use a ridge-pole to 
fasten the rafters to at the top. Lay 
them about '■>> ft. apart and spike them 
to the ridge-pole at the top. Select 
small timber about 4 in. in diameter, 
flatten one side and halve them on to 
the rafters, letting them extend over 
the gable ends about 6 in. Nail them 
in place. 

If shingles cannot be procured for 
a covering, bark will do very well. The 
bark should lie removed from large 
trees and laid on in long strips, over- 
lapping <1 in. 

For floors use matched and planed 
pine boards 1 in. thick and <> in. wide. 
For the second story floor they should 
be planed on both sides, unless two 




thicknesses are used, in which case the 
boards should be put on with the rough 
surfaces facing. 

To make partitions saw logs in longi- 
tudinal halves and nail them in form 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



with their flat sides facing and over- 
lapping just enough to hold firmly when 
nailed together. This will make each 
side of the partition consist of a round 
log surface and a flat one alternately. 
Place a log on top of the partition and 
spike into place. 

Window sash must be procured from 
Mime outside source of supply and they 
should be placed in the frames so, they 
will be waterproof. Windows that 
swing out are most convenient. Straps 
of old leather will do for hinges and a 
hardwood bar on the sash, having holes 
bored in it to fit over iron pins in the 
frame will be convenient for holding 
it open, while a leather strap to but- 
ton over the nail will hold it closed. 
Make doors of matched boards and use 
braces and crosspieces on them, nail- 
ing them securely. If hinges are not 




to be had, bore a large deep hole at one 
side of the door in the upper part of the 
frame, and another directly opposite 
in the lower part of the frame. In 
these holes slip the ends of a strong 
round stick which will turn in them 



the latch on the inside and pass it 
through a hole in the door to the out- 
side. Screens add much to the comfort 




The Fireplace with Rustic Mantel 

of a cabin and may be provided if de- 
sired. 

The fireplace should he built up with 

the cabin, laying stone foundations for 
it at the time the other foundations are 
laid, using cement mortar. The fire- 
place should he of firebrick, but may 
have a stone face. The opening should 
not be larger than .'! ft. high and ■"> ft. 
wide and be arched at the top. The 
fireplace should have a deep throat 
and the smoke flue should be about 16 
in. square. Build the chimney of brick, 
and to prevent the roof from leaking 
around it lay pieces of tin in the brick 
work, letting one edge extend under 
the shingles at the top side of the chim- 
ney and over them at the lower and 
at the sides let the tin turn down 
against^ other pieces laid with the 




Bunk with Mattress of Springy Boughs 

easily. Nail the door on one side of 
the pole. To -fasten the door make a 
wooden catch and provide a strong bar 
to work as a latch. Fasten a string to 



To Hold the Windo 



shingles. If the chimney reaches above 
the ridge-pole it will have a good draft 
without capping it over, but if below 
the ridge-pole it should be capped. The 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



fireplace may be built up in a ledge to 
support a mantel, or wooden brackets 
mav be made. A crane may be made 




Rustic Stairway 



by bracing an iron bar to an upright 
piece. Sockets for the crane should be 
built in with the brick and the vertical 
piece should have pins to fit into them. 




Two Styles of Wood Box 

The arm should be provided with 

hi inks, on which to hang vessels, etc. 
Another kind of fireplace consists ''I 
a huge inverted sheet-iron funnel ■'! ft. 
wide at its lower part and tapering up 
to fit the smoke pipe about 1, in. in 
diameter. The top of the pipe extends 
above the roof; the funnel is suspended 
over a foundation of stone, brick or 
clay 8 in. dee]) and which supports the 
firebed which is held together by a 




An Inviting Window Seat 

frame of green logs. This is a good 
arrangement for warmth. 

In building a stairway the frame is 



built of poles, and as to the work put 
on it, one may suit his fancy. Halved 
logs may be used for steps and are 
convenient for many other purposes. 

Bunks may be made by placing small 
straight even poles on a frame work of 
poles at least 1 ft. 
above the floor 
and laying even- 
sized boughs and 
fine twigs to the 
depth of 2 ft., lay- 
ing pieces at sides, 
head and foot to 
hold the boughs in 
place and on these 
laying the blank- 
ets or sleeping 
b a g. A packing 
box can be used for a cupboard by 
hinging its cover and furnishing with 
a few shelves. 

For furnishings for the cabin there 
i^ a wide range for suiting individual 
tastes. Many articles, such as chairs, 
beds, wood boxes, tables, etc., may be 
built of poles and nails. Window- seats 
add to the appearance of comfort and 




Saplings 




||||r .lydi: ! ■§ 




Canopied Couch Built 

rustic seats can be built for the ver- 
anda. 

For the disposal of garbage it is well 
to dig a hole a little distance from the 
ramp, sprinkling a little of the exca- 
vated material over any refuse that is 
placed in it. 

The cabin may be finished more in- 
side if thought best, but this detracts 
rather than adds to its appropriateness 
Calking should be done as late as possi- 
ble, so the logs can dry out a little. For 
calking use oakum or moss, pressing 
it in between the logs from both sides, 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



35 



using a wooden chisel and a mallet to 
force it in. Care in the details of the 
camp will afford a place as inviting and 
comfortable as can be desired. 



To Make an Electric Piano 

Make or buy a table about :i ft. long 
and 1 ft. or more wide, and about 2'- 
ft. high. Nail a board | A, Fig. 1 ) about 
8 in. wide and of the same length as 
the table, to the table as shown in the 
illustration. Paint the table any color 
desired. 



may be either nailed or screwed down 
(G, Fig. I). 

Make two holes in the table for each 
button and its wires (II, Fig. 2). Nail 
or screw the buttons to the table as 
shown at Fig. 5 with the wires under- 
neath. The connections are simple: 
I in Fig. 5 is a wire running from one 
end of the table to the other end, at- 
tached tn a post at each end; J. is an- 
other wire attached in the same way; 
L is the carbon wire running from the 
batteries to I : M is the zinc wire run- 
ning from the batteries to wire T; O 




Purchase a dozen or so battery elec- 
tric bells (they are cheaper if bought 
by the dozen) and screw them to the 
board. (See Fig. 2.) Arrange the bells 
in the scab- as shown at B, Fig. 2. Bore 
two holes, near the posts of each bell 
for the wires to pass through. 

Buttons for the bells may be pur- 
chased, but it is cheaper to make them 
in the following way: Take a pier,- of 
wood and cut it round, about 2 1 - in. in 
diameter and v \ in. thick (Fig. 3) and 
bore two holes (C and D) through it. 
Then get two posts, about 1 in. long 
(battery posts will do) and put them 
through the holes as at Fig. I. Cul 
out a piece of tin, % in. wide, punch a 
hole through it and put in under post 
E, Fig. I, so that when it is pressed 
down, it will touch post F, Fig. 1. It 



indicates the'batteries; 1' i^ a wire run- 
ning from J to one j >. .-- 1 of a button; Q 
is another wire running from the other 
post of the button to one of the posts 
of the bell ; R is a wire running from 1 
to unc post of the bell. When the but- 
ton S is pressed, the bell will ring. Each 
button should be connected with its 
bell in the same way. < )ne battery can 
be used with each bell if preferred. — 
Contributed by Vincent de Ybarrondo, 
1 ,os Angeles, < 'al. 



Felt from an old hat makes good 
packing for automobile water circulat- 
ing pumps. Strips should be cut to tit 
snugly in the stuffing box. When the 
follower is screwed down, it will ex- 
pand the felt and make a watertight 
joint. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Another Optical Illusion 

After taking a look at the accompany- 
ing illustration you will be positive that 
the cords shown run in a spiral toward 
the center, yet it shows a series of per- 



The Cord Is Not a Spiral 

feet circles of cords placed one inside 
the other. You can test this for your- 
self in a moment with a pair of com- 
passes, or, still more simply, by laying 
a point of a pencil on any part of the 
cord and following it round. Instead 
of approaching or receding from the 
center in a continuous line, as in the 
case of a spiral, you will find the pencil 
returning to the point from which it 
started. 



Substitute for Insulating Cleats 

In wiring up door hells, alarms and 
telephones, as well as experimental 
work the use of 
common felt gun 
wads make a very 
good cleat for the 
wires. They are 
used in the manner illustrated in the 
accompanying sketch. The insulated 
wire is placed between two wads and 
fastened with two nails or screws. If 
one wad on the back is not thick 
enough to keep the wire away from the 
support, put on two wads behind and 
one in front of the wire and fasten in 
the same manner as described. 



Electrically Operated Indicator for a 
Wind Vane 

The accompanying photograph shows 
a wind vane connected with electric- 
wires to an instrument at considerable 
distance which indicates by means 
of a magnetic needle the direction of 
the wind. The bearings of the vane 
consist of the head of a wornout 
bicycle. A J^-in. iron pipe extends 
from the vane and is held in place by 
the clamp originally used to secure the 
handle bar of the bicycle. In place of 
the forks is attached an eight-cylinder 
gas engine timer which is slightly 
altered in such a manner that the brush 
is at all times in contact, and when 
pointing between two contacts con- 
nects them both. Nine wires run from 
the timer, one from each of the eight 
contacts, and one, which serves as the 
ground wire, is fastened to the metallic 
body. The timer is set at such a posi- 
tion that when the vane points directly 
north, the brush of the timer makes a 
connection in the middle of a contact. 
When the timer is held in this position 
the brush will make connections with 
each of the contacts as the vane re- 
volves. 

The indicating device which is placed 
in a convenient place in the house con- 
sists of eight 4-ohm magnets fastened 
upon a 1-in. board. These magnets are 
placed in a 10-in. circle, 45 deg. apart 
and with their faces pointing toward 
the center. Covering these is a thin, 
wood board upon which is fastened a 
neatly drawn dial resembling a mari- 
ner's compass card. This is placed over 
the magnets in such a manner that 
there will be a magnet under each of 
the eight principal points marked on 
the dial. Over this dial is a magnetic 
needle or pointer, 6 in. long, perfectly 
balanced on the end of a standard and 
above all is placed a cover having a 
glass top. The eight wires from the 
timer contacts connect with the out- 
side wires of the eight magnets sepa- 
rately and the inside wires from the 
magnets connect with the metal brace 
which holds the magnets in place. A 
wire is then connected from the metal 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



brace to a push button, 
two or three cells of 
dry battery and to the 
ground wire in connec- 
tion with the tinier. 
The wires are con- 
nected in such a man- 
ner that when the vane 
is pointing in a certain 
direction the battery 
will be connected in 
series with the coil 
under that part i if I lie 
dial representing t h e 
direction in which the 
vane is pointing, thus 
magnetizing the core 
of the magnet which 
attracts the opposite 
pole of the needle to- 
ward the face of the 
magnet and indicating 
the way the wind is 
blowing. The pointer 
end of the needle is 
painted black. 

If the vane points in 
such a direction that 
the tinier brush con- 
nects t vvi i ci mtaets. two 
magnets will be mag- 
netized and the needle 
will point midway be- 
1 w i in the twi > lines 
represented on the dial, 
thus- giving Hi differ- 
ent directii ins. Around 
the pointer end of the 
needle is wound a fine 
ci ipper wire, i me end of 
which extends down to 
about ,'_. in. . if the dial. 
This wire holds the 
needle in place when 
the pointer end is di- 
rectly over the magnet 
attracting it ; the mag- 
net causing the needle 
to "dip" will bring the 
wire in contact with 
the paper dial. With- 
out this attachment, 
the needle would swing 
a few seconds before 
coming to a standstill. 




The Wind Vane, Magnets and Indicator 



3.8 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



The vane itself is easily constructed 
as can be seen in the illustration. It 
should be about 6 ft. long to give the 
best results. The magnets used can 
be purchased from any electrical store 
in pairs which are called "instrument 
magnets." Any automobile garage can 
supply the tinier and an old valueless 
bicycle frame is not hard to find. The 
cover is easily made from a picture 
frame with four small boards arranged 
to take the place of the picture as 
shi iwn. 

The outfit is valuable to a person 
who is situated where a wane could 
not be placed so as to be seen from a 
window and especially at night when 
it is hard to determine the direction of 
the wind. By simply pressing the 
push button on the side of the cover, 
the needle will instantly point to the 
part of the dial from which the wind. 
is blowing. — Contributed by lames L. 
Blackmer, Buffalo, X. Y. 



A Home-Made Floor Polisher 

An inexpensive finer polisher can be 
made as follows: Secure a wooden 
box with a base 8 by 12 in. and 
about 6 in. high, also a piece of new 
carpet, 1 I by 18 in. Cut 3-in. squares 
out of the four corners of the carpet 
and place the box squarely on it. Turn 
three of the flaps of the carpet up and 
tack them securely to the sides of the 
box. Before tacking the fourth side, 



fold a couple of newspapers to the 
right size and shove them in between 
the carpet and the bottom of the box 
for a cushion. Fill the box with any 
handy ballast, making it heavy or 
light, according to who is going to use 
it, and securely nail on the top of the 
box. The handle can be made from an 
old broom handle the whole of which 
will be none too long. Drive a heavy 
screweye into the big end of the handle 
and fasten to the polisher by a staple 
driven through the eve into the center 
of the cover, thus making a universal 
joint. The size of the box given here 
is the best although any size near that, 
if not too high, will answer the pur- 
pose just as well. The box is pushed 
or pulled over the floor and the padded 
side will produce a fine polish. 



How to Make a Lady's Card-Case 

A card-case such as is shown here 
makes a very appropriate present for 
any lady. To make it. secure a piece 
of "ooze" calf skin leather -I 1 '- by 1(>V1> 
in. The one shown in the accompany- 
ing picture was made of a rich tan ooze 
of light weight and was lined with a 
grey-green goat skin. The design was 
stenciled and the open parts backed 
with a green silk plush having a rather 
heavy nap. The lining of goat skin 
need in >t c< >ver more than the central 
part — not the flies. A piece 4 1 , j by 5 




Design for the Cover of Lady's Card-Ca 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



in. will be sufficient. A piece of plush 
IV4 by 6 in. will he enough for the two 
sides. 

Begin work by shaping the larger 
piece of leather as shown in the draw- 
ing. Allow a little margin ai the top 
and bottom, however, to permit trim- 
ming the edges slightly after the parts 
have been sewed together. A knife or 
a pair of scissors will do to cul the 
leather with, though a special knife, 
called a chip carving knife, is mosl sat- 
isfactory. 

The next thing is to put in the marks 
fur the outline of the designs and the 
borders. A tool having a point shaped 
as in the illustration is commonly used. 
It is called a modeling tool for leather 
and may be purchased, or, one can be 
made from an ordinary nut pick by 
taking off the sharpness with fine 
emery paper so that it will not cut the 
leather. To work these outlines, first 
moisten the leather on the back' with 
as much water as it will take and still 
not show through on the face side. 
Place the leather on some level, non- 
absorbent surface and with the tool 
and a straightedge on the straight 
1 1 1 1 1 indent the leather as shown. 
The easiest way is to place the paper 
pattern on the leather and mark on the 
paper. The indentations will be trans- 
ferred without the necessity of putting 
any lines on the leather. 

With the knife cut out the stencils 
as shown. Paste the silk plush to the 
inner side, being careful not to gel an) 
of the paste so far out that it will show. 
A good leather paste will be required. 



ordinary sewing-machine will do if a 
good stout needle is used. A silk thread 
that will match the leather should be 
used. Keep the ooze side of the lining 




Complete Card-Case 

out so that it will show, rather than the 
smooth side. With the knife and 
straightedge trim off the surplus ma- 
terial at the top and bottom and the 
boi ik is ready f< >r use. 






Leather Tools 



Next place the lining, fold the flies 
along- the lines indicated in the draw- 
ing. Hold the parts together and 
stitch them on a sewing-machine. An 



Home-Made Fire Extinguisher 

Dissolve 20 lb. of common salt and 
10 lb. o| sal ammoniac in ] gal, of 
water, and put the solution in thin 
glass bottles, cork tightly and seal to 
pre\ enl e\ api iratii m. The In a t les 
should hold about 1 qt. If a tire breaks 
out, throw one of the bollle-. in or 
near the flames, or break off the neck 
and scatter the contents on the fire. 
It may be necessary to use several bot- 
tles tc i quench the flames. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Make Water Motors 



To make the pattern of a water motor 
shown in' Fig. 1, first get a disk con- 
structed like A, about 20 in. in diam- 
eter. This disk can be cut out of sheet 
metal, or it may be made of pine wood, 
using common boards. The sheet 



.4^=H£i 




Handy So 



metal will have to be cut at the tin- 
smith's. You can make the wood disk 
yourself if you marls out the shape on 
the boards in pencil and cut the mater- 
ial accordingly. After the disk is ready, 
the hub should be designed. This con- 
sists of the wooden wheel B. This 
wheel can be purchased ready made at 
a hardware or a general tool and ma- 
chinery store. The wheel is grooved, 
about 5 in. in diameter, and of ample 
width to fit the shaft and carry the rope 
C. The wheel is fitted to the wood 
shaft with a key or screw. Next comes 
the application of the water wings or 
paddles. These are made of curved 
sheet metal of the design shown. They 




Simple Type of Water Motor 

should be of sufficient width to receive 
the full blast of the jet of water from 
the nozzle or discharge pipe D. If the 
disk is of metal, the edge of the disk 



must be turned, so as to provide a 
shoulder to secure the paddles to either 
by soldering or by using little bolts 
passed through holes bored for the pur- 
pose. If there is a wooden disk used, 
the paddles are set-screwed to the rim 
direct. Thus we have the paddles in 
place, so that the discharge of water 
plays into each»as it comes around the 
circuit as at E. Considerable speed can 
be developed with the common hose 
pipe. The power generated in this way 
is used for running sewing machines, 
fan wheels, dust wheels, etc. The en- 
tire affair fits in boxed framework of 
wood, so that the water will be kept in. 
The water is drawn off through the 
base of the framework to the drain 
pipe. These devices may be seen in 
use for mechanical service in connec- 
tion with running automatic contriv- 
ances in show windows. 

The skeleton-like arrangement in 
Fig. 2 is made with the hub of small 
size as shown, to which the large wings 
or paddles are secured with set-screws. 
This hub is metal. It can be made by 
hack-sawing the same from a section 
of metal 3 let I in. in diameter and bor- 
ing for the hole. Sometimes a common 
cart wheel hub can be used for the pur- 
pose. The wings have to be of wrought 
or other stiff metal, so that they will 
retain t h e ir 
form under 
the pressure 
of the water. 
These p a d- 
d 1 e s are 
a 1) o ut .'! in. 
wide. C o m- 
nioii .'1-1 <> or 
's-in. metal 
will answer 

the purpose. The wheel is set upon its 
shaft and the plan is made for the vol- 
ume of water to fall upon the paddles 
from an outlet as at F. The water force 
contacts with the paddle at G, as 
shown. The shaft which carries the 
wheel also carries the driving wheel, 
which is for a flat belt or round belt, 
as the case may lie. It is quite easy to 




POPULAR MECHANICS 



41 



get from y 2 to 3 hp. from these various 
types of home-made wheels. 

The wheel in Fig. '■) is calculated for 
use in direct contact with the water. 
A running stream of water is selected 
and the wheel is adjusted on its shaft 
so as to drop the lower portion of the 
wheel into the moving currents as 
shown. The water contacts with each 
box-paddle, as at II, in turn, and keeps 
the wheel revolving according to the 
velocity of the water. First we make 
the hid) or center of two pieces of hard- 
wood bolted together and protected 
with flanges on either side. The two 
pieces can be sawed from boards and 
fitted together with the hole for the 
shaft bored through. The hub is ap- 
plied to the shaft. The spokes for the 
paddle boxes are adjusted into holes 
bored around the circuit of the hub, 
same as spokes are fitted to the com- 
mon wheel hub. Then the paddle boxes 
of tin or of wood are secured to the 
end of each spoke. These boxes are 
about 4 in. square with side-- about 2 
in. deep. Sometimes it is necessar) 
to run the wheel within a case of sheet 
metal, as in big. 4. The ease has an 
opening to let the water discharge in, 
as at I, and an opening to let the used 
water out, as at J, The case is usually 
set up on the brick masonry, as indi- 
cated. The affair is usually in the base- 
ment. The wheel is made with four 
plain paddles and the power is gen- 
erated by the water striking the pad- 
dle, as at K. The hub is of wood, or 
as before, a discarded carriage or wagon 
wheel hub will do. The paddles are 
wood, about 4 in. wide and 30 in. long. 
They are mortised into the hub. 

Figure 5 is another view of this 
wheel. The hid) is marked M. The 
section of paddles shown is marked X. 
The shaft extends through the hub, and 
is secured to the hub with pins or a 
key. To one end of the shaft there is 
fixed the pulley for carrying the belt 
P. The journals for supporting the 
shaft are adjusted between the wheel 
center and the shaft ends. Several who 
have made this pattern of wheel have 
been able to get satisfaction from it. 
It is simple and is capable of generating 



quite a degree of power, which mav be 
transmitted to some device through the 
agency of the licit I'. 

In Fig. 6 is shown another design, 
which can be constructed with mater- 





V * Fig 6 



ials usually easily collected. The hub 
is made firsl as in the case of the other 
wheels, and this may again be a com- 
mon wheel hub, with the belt wheel 
fixed on the shaft adjoining it. < >r in 
case a wheel hid) is not at hand, 
the hub can be made of a hardwood 
block, bored and rounded to suit the 
conditions. Then the spokes are in- 
serted into holes made in the hub for 
the purpose. These spokes are of hard- 
wood and a good way to get them is to 
secure spokes of an old carriage wheel. 
In fact, a good way to do is to get a 
wheel from a blacksmith or wheel- 
wright and use it as it is, removing the 
rim, cutting the spokes to right length. 



42 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



and if necessary sawing off every other 
spoke. ( >r perhaps it will be necessary 
to saw off two of every three spokes. 
This gives you a very strung base to 
work with. The wheels can be bought 
for a very little money after they are 
cast tn the junk heap. Many times 
they arc given away. Thus if we were 
making the pattern of wheel in Fig. 6, 
all the spokes of the wheel would be 
sawed nil except the four shown. To 



these spokes, at the ends, the bowl- 
shaped tins are fixed. They are fas- 
tened with screws or rivets so that the 
spoke crosses direct over the front of 
the opening. The water force is from 
the pipe T, and the discharge forcibly 
meets tile bowl S. causing the wheel 
to revolve, bringing the next bowl in 
position, and so on. The rope belt is 
marked R, and is extended to the de- 
\ ire ti i be driven. 



A Barrel Boat for Sailing 



The barrel sailing boat is very easily 
constructed and it is one of the best 
devices known to instruct a young per- 
son in the art of managing sails. The 
barrel boat can lie put together in one 
day, and the only part that needs to be 




Sailing in a Barrel Boat 

bought is the material for the sail. 
Figure 6 shows the hull of the barrel 
boat. Jt consists of a bow barrel and 
a stern barrel, joined together by one 
strong plank" and a simple outrigger 
which extends from the plank. In or- 
der that the barrels may not present a 
tlat front, which would be difficult to 
push through the water, they are, as 
shown in the illustration of the com- 
pleted boat, fastened to the plank at an 
angle. The angle is made by placing 
between each barrel and the plank a 
triangular shaped brace, such as shown 
in Fig. f>. Both barrels must be covered 
with tar and painted so that they will 
be absolutely water-tight. 

The outrigger (Fig. i ). is a small 
SCOW-shaped affair, about 2% ft. long 
and 1 ft. wide. An ordinary oar or 



paddle is used for steering. A notched 
stick (Fig. S) or an iron rowlock can 
be fastened over the stern barrel to hold 
the steering oar. 

The barrel boat, when completed, 
will consist of two large air-tight com- 
partments and is, therefore, unsinkable, 
and because of the out-rigger is very 
difficult to tip over. Hence it is safe 
to carry quite a large spread of sail. In 
a stiff breeze the barrel boat is more 
seaworthy than rapid, because the 
waxes slap against the ends of the bar- 
rels, but in a light breeze when the 




gging of 



water is smooth, the barrel boat com- 
pares favorably in point of speed with 
the ordinary small sail boat. 



A little borax added to flour paste 
will double its adhesive power, and 
keep it from souring, also. 



When using a new file, on babbitt 
or aluminum, rub it with a piece of 
chalk or soapstone. This fills the 
teeth of the file so chips cannot stick 
in them and cut scores in the work. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Mechanics for Young America 



A Simple Steamboat Model 

The small boat shown in the accom- 
panying sketch may have a length of 
12 to 18 in. and is constructed in the 
following manner: A small strain 
boiler, A, is supported by two braces 
over an alcohol lamp in the middle of 
the boat. A small pipe is fastened to 
the top of the boiler in such a way 
that the open end will be opposite the 
open end of another pipe. B, somewhat 
larger in size. The pipe B opens into 
the stern of the boat at C, as shown in 
Fig. 1. The steam, coming through 





Sectional View and Completed Boat 

the small pipe A, is driven forcibly 
through the largest pipe, 1'.. which car- 
ries with it a certain amount of air out 
through the opening C into the water. 
As the boat is driven forward by this 
force, the steam arises to the surface 
in the form of bubbles. The boat 
soon attains considerable speed, leav- 
ing behind a Ion- wake. 

Home-Made Blowpipe 

Procure a clay pipe, a cork and a 
small glass or metal tube drawn to a 
small opening in one end. Make a hole 
in the cork just large enough to permit 
the tube to pass through tightly so no 
air can pass out except through the hi >!e 
in the tube. Put the tube in the hole 



with the small opening at the top or 
projecting end. Push the cork into the 




A Pipe Blowpipe 

bowl of the pipe and the blowpipe i- 
ready for use. — Contributed by VVilbui 
Cryderman, Walkerton, ( >nt. 



Ornamental Iron Flower Stand 

The illustration shows an orna- 
mental iron stand constructed t>. 1ml. 1 
a glass or china vase. This stand can 
be made by first drawing an outline of 
the vase on a heavy piece of paper. 
The vase is to have three supports. 
The shape of the scrolls forming each 
support should be drawn on the papei 
around the shape of the ease. A single 
line will lie sufficient, hut care must he 
taken to get the shapes of the scrolls 




true. Take a piece of string or, better 
still, a piece oi small wire, and pass it 
around the scroll shape on the paper. 



1 1 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



This will give the exact length of the 
iron required to make the scroll. As 
sheet metal is used for making the 
senilis, it can be cut in the right 
lengths with a pair of tinner's shears. 
Take a pair of round-nose pliers, begin 
with the smallest scrolls, and bend 
each strip in shape, using the flat-nose 
pliers when necessary to keep the iron 



straight, placing it on the sketch from 
time to time to see that the scrolls are 
kepi td the shape required. The scrolls 
are riveted and bolted together. The 
supports are fastened together with 
rings of strip iron % in. wide, to which 
tin- supports are fastened with rivets. 
The metal can be covered with any de- 
sired color of enamel paint. 



How to Make a Coin Purse 



The dimensions for a leather coin 
purse are as follows: from A to 1',, as 
shown in the sketch, 6% in.; from C 
to I), 1 1 '| in.; from E to F, 3% in. and 

A 




Leather Design for a Purse 

from G to II, 3V4 in. Russian calf 
modeling leather is the material used. 
A shade of brown is best as it does not 
soil easily, and does not require color- 
ing. 

Cut out the leather to the size of the 
pattern, then moisten the surface on 
the rough side with a sponge soaked in 
water. He careful not to moisten the 
leather too much or the water will go 
through to the smooth side. Have the 



design drawn or traced on the pattern. 
Then lay the pattern on the smooth 
side of the leather and trace over the 
design with the small end of the 
leather tool or a hard, sharp pencil. 
Trace also the line around the purse. 
Dampen the leather as often as is 
necessary to keep it properly mois- 
tened. 

After taking off the pattern, retrace 
the design directly on the leather to 
make it more distinct, using a duller 
point of the tool. Tress or model 
down the leather all around the de- 
sign, making it as smooth as possible 
with the round side of the tool. Work 
down the outside line of the design, 
thus raising it. 

Fold the leather on the line EF. Cut 
another piece of leather the size of the 
side ECBD of the purse, and after put- 
ting the wrong sides of the leather to- 
gether, stitch around the edge as 
designated by the letters above men- 
tioned. Do not make this piece come 
quite up to the line EF, so that the 
coins may be more easilv put in and 
taken out. About 1 in. from the lines 
EF on the piece, stitch in a strip of 
leather about 1 ( in. wide when stitch- 
ing up the purse, through which to slip 
the fly AGH. 



A window glass may be kept from 
frosting by rubbing over the inner sur- 
face a solution of 55 parts of glycerine 
and 1,000 parts of 60 per cent alcohol. 
The odor may be improved by adding 
a little oil of amber. This s< ilution will 
also prevent a glass from sweating in 
warm weather. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

How to Make a Turbine Engine 



In the following article is described is even at the edge with the under 
a machine which anyone can make, square piece and place the wheel so 
and which will be very interesting, as that the space between the wheel and 
well as useful. It can be made without 
the use of a lathe, or other tools usu- 
ally out of reach of the amateur me- 
chanic. It is neat and efficient, and a 
model for speed and power. Babbitt 
metal is the material used in its con- 
struction, being cast in wooden molds. 
The casing for the wheel is cast in 
halves — a fact which must be kept in 
mind. 

First, procure a planed pine board 1 
by 12 in. by 12 ft. long. Cut off six 




pieces 12 in. square, and, with a com- 
pass saw, cut (nit one piece as shown 
in Fig. 1, following the dotted lines, 
leaving the lug a, and the projections 
B and b to be cut out with a pocket 
knife. Make the lug ' ,4 in. deep, and 
the projections B, b, ^ in. deep. The 
entire cut should be slightly beveled. 

Now take another piece of wood, and 
cut out a wheel, as shown in Fig. 2. 
This also should be slightly beveled. 
When it is finished, place it on one of 
the square pieces of wood, with the 
largest side down, then place the square 
piece out of which Fig. 1 was cut, 
around the wheel, with the open side 
down. (We shall call that side of a 
mold out of which a casting is drawn, 
the "open" side.) Place it so that it 



o 


— ^\f B 
\ 

\ 

"4- 


o 




° 


o 



the other piece of wood is an even % 
in. all the way around. Then nail the 
wheel down firmly, and tack the other 
piece slightly. 

Procure a thin board I4 in. thick, and 
cut it out as shown in Fig. 3 ; then nail 
it, with pins or small nails, on the 
center of one of the square pieces of 
wood. Fit this to the two pieces just 
finished, with the thin wheel down — 
but first boring a %-in. hole ' 1 in. deep, 
in the center of it; and boring a %-in. 




hole entirely through at the same place. 
Now put mold No. 1 (for that is what 
we shall call this mold) in a vise, and 
bore six %-in. holes through it. Be 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



careful to keep these holes well out in 
the solid part, as shown by the black 
dots in Fig. 1. Take the mold apart, 
and clean all the shavings out of it; 




then bolt it together, and lay it away 
to dry. 

Now take another of the 12-in. square 
pieces of wood, and cut it out as shown 
in Fig. I. slightly beveled. After it is 
finished, place it between two of the 
12-in. square pieces of wood, one of 
which should have a %-in. hole bored 
through its center. Then bolt together 
with six Vt-in. bolts, as shown by the 




black dots in Fig. 4, and lay it away to 
dry. This is mold No. '.'. 

Now take mold No. 1 ; see that the 
bolts are all tight; lay it on a level 
place, and pour babbitt metal into it, 
until it is full. Let it stand for half 



an hour, then loosen the bolts and re- 
move the casting. 

Now cut out one of the 12-in. -square 
pieces of wood as shown in Fig. 5. This 
is the same as Fig. 1, only the one is 
left-handed, the other right-handed. 
Tut this together in mold No. 1, in- 
stead of the right-handed piece ; and 
run in babbitt metal again. The cast- 
ing thus made will face together with 
the casting previously made. 

Pour metal into mold No. 2. This 
will cast a paddle-wheel, which is in- 
tended to turn inside of the casting al- 
ready made. 

If there should happen to be any 




holes or spots, where the casting did 
in 't fill out, fill them by placing a small 
piece of wood with a hole in it, over 
the defective part, and pouring metal 
in to fill it up. 

If you cannot obtain the use of a 
drill press, take an ordinary brace, 
fasten a %-in. drill in it, and bore a 
hole through the end of a strip about 
2 in. wide and Hi in. long; put the top 
of the brace through this hole, and 
fasten the other end of the strip to a 
bench, as shown in illustration. Find 
the center of the paddle-wheel, place it 
under the drill, true it up with a square ; 
and drill it entirely through. Find the 
centers of the insides of the other two 
castings, and drill them in the same 
manner. 

A piece of mild steel 5 in. long, and 
% in. in diameter must now be ob- 
tained. This is for a shaft. Commenc- 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



ing- 1^4 in. from the one end, file the 
shaft off flat for a distance of 1 in. 
Then cut a slot in the paddle-wheel, 
and place the shaft inside of the paddle- 
wheel, with the flat part of the shaft 
turned to face the slot in the wheel. 
Pour metal into the slot to key the 
wheel on to the shaft. 

The paddle-wheel is now ready to 
be fitted inside of the casing. It may 
he necessary to file some of the ends 
off the paddles, in order to let the pad 
die-wheel go into the casing. Aftei 
it is fitted in, so that it will turn easily, 
place the entire machine in a vise, and 
bore three 1 4-in. holes, one in the lug, 
one in the project]. m-. B, b, and the 
other in the base, as shown by the Mack 
dots in Fig. 6. Also bore the port-hole 
in projection B, and the exhaust hole 
in projection b. and two \ rin. holes at 
d, d. Fig. 6. Cut out a piece of gasket 
and lit it between the two castings. 
Then bolt the castings together, screw 
down, and connect to the boiler. 




Using the Brace 

The reader must either cast a pulley 
out of babbitt metal, or else go to a 
machinist and get a collar turned, with 
a b >ss and a set screw, and with three 
small screw hole- around the edge. Cut 
out a small wood wheel and screw the 
collar fast to it. fa-ten it to the shaft 
of the turbine and turn on the -team. 
Then take a knife or a chisel, and, while 
it is running at full speed, turn the 
wheel to the shape desired. 

Your turbine engine i- now ready foi 
work, and if instructions have been 
carefully followed, will do good service. 



When painting the automobile body 
and chassis be sure to stuff the oil holes 
with felt or waste before applying tin' 
paint. If this caution i- not observed 
the holes will become clogged with 
paint which will prevent any oil reach- 
ing the bearing. 



How To Build An Ice Boat 

The ice boat is each year becoming 
more popular. \n\ one with even 
small experience in using tools cai 




struct such a craft, and the ph. 
many limes repays the effort. 

Take two pieces of wood '.' by 6 in., 
mie 6 ft. and the other 8 It. Ion-. At 
each end of the G-ft. piece and at right 
angles to it, bolt a piece of hardwood 
V l.\ I h\ 1'.' in. Round off the lower 
edge of each piece to lii an old skate. 
Have a blacksmith bore holes through 
the top of tlie skates and screw • 
them to each of the pieces of hardwood. 




These skates must be exactly parallel 
or there will be trouble the first time, 
the craft is used. 

( >ver the middle of the 6-ft. piece and 



18 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



at right angles to it, bolt the S-ft. plank, 
leaving 1 ft. projecting as in Fig. 1. 

The rudder skate is fastened to a 
piece of hardwood 3 by 2 by 12 in. as 
the runners were fastened. This piece 
should be mortised 3 by 3 by 4 in. in 
the top before the skate is put on. 
Figure '.' shows the rudder post. 

A piece of hardwood I by <> by 6 in. 



Figure 6 shows the way of rigging 
the gaff to the spar. Figure 7 shows 
the method of crotching the main boom 
and Fig. 8 a reef point knot, which may 
come in handy in heavy winds. 

Make your runners as long as possi- 
ble, and if a blacksmith will make an 
iron or steel runner for you, so much 
the better will be vour boat. 




Fig. 6 

Details of Ice Boat Construction 



should lie screwed to the under side of 
the S-ft. plank at the end with the grain 
running crosswise. Through this bore 
a hole 1 ' •> in. in diameter in order that 
the rudder post may fit nicely. The 
tiller, Fig. :!, should be of hardwood, 
and about <s in. long. 

To the under side of the 8-ft. plank 
bolt a piece of timber 2 by 1 by 32 in. 
in front of the rudder block, and to this 
cross piece and the li-ft. plank nail 8-in. 
boards to make the platform. 

The spar should be '■> ft. long and "_" _■ 
in. in diameter at the base, tapering to 
1 ' - in. at the top. This fits in the 
square hole. Fig. 1. The horn should 
be 5y L . ft. long, 2 by 3 in. at the butt 
and 1 in. at the end. 

Figure 1 gives the shape and dimen- 
sions of the mainsail which can be made 
of muslin. Run the seam on a ma- 
chine, put a stout cord in the hem and 
make loops at the corners. 



Electric Rat Exterminator 

Some time ago we were troubled by 
numerous large rats around the shop, 
particularly in a storehouse about 100 
ft. distant, where they often did con- 
siderable damage. One of the boys 
thought he would try a plan of electri- 
cal extermination, and in order to carry 
out his plan he picked up an old zinc 
floor plate that had been used under a 
stove and mounted a wooden disk t> in. 
in diameter in the center. ( )n this disk 
he placed a small tin pan about 6 in. in 
diameter, being careful that none of the 
fastening nails made an electrical con- 
nection between the zinc plate and the 
tin pan. 

This apparatus was placed on the 
floor of the warehouse where it was 
plainly visible from a window in the 
shop where we worked and a wire was 
run from the pan and another from the 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



49 



zinc plate through the intervening yard 

and into the shop. A g 1 sized induc- 
tion coil was through connected with 
these wires and about six dry batteries 
were used to run the induction coil 
whenever a push button was manipu- 
lated. 

It is quite evident that when a rat 
put its two fore feet on the edge of the 
pan in order to eat the mush which it 
contained, that an electrical connection 
would be made through the body of 
the rat, and when we pushed the button 
up in the shop the rat would be thrown 




Electric Rat Trap 

2 or 3 ft. in the air and let out a terrific 
squeak. The arrangement proved quite 
too effective, fur after a week the rats 
all departed and the boys all regretted 
that their fun was at an end. — Con- 
tributed by John D. Adams, Phoenix, 
Ariz. 

How to Make a Simple Fire Alarm 

A tire alarm which is both inexpen- 
sive and simple in construction is 
shown in the illustration. Its parts 
are as follows : 

A, small piece of wood; I'>, block of 
wood nailed to A ; S S, two pieces oi 
sheet brass about n \ in. wide, bent into 
a hook at each end; P, P, binding-posts 
fastening the springs S S, to block B, 
so that they come in contact at C. W 
is a piece of wax crayon just long 
enough to break the contact at C when 
inserted as shown in the illustration. 



When these parts have been put to- 
gether in the manner described, con- 
nect the device in circuit with an elec- 
tric bell, and place it behind a stove. 



-P 



rT 



> \ . 



TT 



Simple Fire Alarm 

When the stove becomes too hot the 
wax will melt at the ends, allowing the 
springs to contact at C, and the alarm 
bell will ring. — Contributed by J. lv. 
Comstock, Mechanicsburg, Pa. 



To Build a Merry-Go-Round 

This is a very simple device, but one 
that will afford any amount of amuse- 
ment. The center post rests in an 
auger hole bored in an old stump or in 
a post set in the ground. The stump 
makes the best support. The center 
pole should be 10 ft. high. An old 
wheel is mounted at the top of the pole, 
and the pole works in the wheel as an 
axle, says the American Boy. The 
wheel is anchored out by several guy 




Home-Made Merry-Go- Round 

wires. The seat arms may be any 
length desired. A passenger rides in 
each seat and the motorman takes his 
station at the middle. 



Emery wheel arbors sin mid be fitted 
with flanges or washers having a slight 
Ci mcave U < their taee. 



50 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Novelty Clock for the Kitchen 
An inexpensive and easy way to 
make an unique ornament of a clock 




The Clock with Holder 

fur kitchen use is to take an old alarm 
cluck or a new one if preferred, and 
make it into a cluck to hang on the 
wall. Take the glass, dial and works 
i nit < if the shell and cut some piece-- i ml 
of the metal so that when the pieces 
left are turned hack it will have the 
appearance as in Fig. 1. Then get a 
10-cent frying pan, ii in. in diameter, 
and drill a hole in the center so the 
shaft for the hands will easily pass 
through and extend out far enough to 
replace the two hands. Tut the works 
hack in the metal shell and solder it 
to the frying pan by the pieces turned 
out as in Fig. 2. Gild the pan all over, 
including the handle, and print black 
figures in the small circles. Calendar 
figures can he pasted on small circles 
and these pasted on the frying pan. 
The parts can he divided into minutes 
with small lines the same as shown 
in the drawing. Make new hands that 
are long enough to reach the figures 
from sheet brass or tin and paint them 
black. — Contributed by Carl P. Herd, 
Davenport, Iowa. 



How to Make a Small Silver Plating 
Outfit 

Take an ordinary glass fruit jar or 
any other receptacle in glass, not 
metal, which will hold 1 qt. of liquid 
and till it with rain or distilled water 
and then add :! i oz. of silver chloride 
and D- oz. of c. p. potassium cyanide. 
Let this dissolve and incorporate well 
with the water before using. Take an 
ordinary wet battery and fasten two 
copper wires to the terminals and 
fasten the other ends of the wires to 
two pieces of heavy copper wire or y±- 
in. brass pipe. The wires must be well 
soldered to the brass pipe to make a 
good connection. When the solution 
is made up and entirely dissolved the 
outfit is ready for plating. 

Procure a small piece of silver, a sil- 
ver button, ring, chain or anything 
made entirely of silver and fasten a 
small copper wire to it and hang on the 
brass pipe with connections to the car- 
bon of the battery. Clean the article 
to be plated well with pumice and a 
brush saturated in water. When clean- 
ing any article there should be a cop- 
per wire attached to it. Do not touch 
the article after you once start to clean 
it, or the places touched by your fin- 
ders will cause the silver plate to peel 
off when finished. When well scoured, 
run clear, cold water over the article 
and if it appears greasy, place in hot 
water. When well cleaned place in the 
plating bath and carefully watch the 
results. If small bubbles come to the 
surface you will know that you have 
too much of the anode or the piece of 
silver hansnngf in the solution and von 




and Battery 



must draw out enough of the piece un- 
til you can see no more bubbles. Leave 
the piece to be plated in the solution 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



for about one-half hour, then take the 
article out and with a tooth brush and 
some pumice, clean the yellowish scum 
off, rinse in clear water and dry in saw- 
dust. When thoroughly dry, take a 
cotton flannel rag and some polishing 
powder and polish the article. I he ar- 
ticle must have a fine polish before 
plating if it is desired to have a finely 
polished surface after the plate is put 
on. 

In order to see if your battery is 
working, take a small copper wire and 
touch one end to the anode pipe and 
the other end to the pipe holding the 
article to be plated. When these two 
parts touch there will be a small spark. 
Always take the- zincs out of the solu- 
tion when not in use and the batteries 
will last longer. This description ap- 
plies only to silver plating. Articles of 
lead, pewter, tin or any sofl metal can- 
not be silver plated unless the article is 
first ci ipper plated. 



Removing a Tight- Fitting Ring from a 
Finger 

When a ring cannot be removed eas- 
ily from the finger, take a string or 
thread and draw one end through be- 
tween the ring and the flesh. Coil the 
other end of the string around the 
finger covering the part from the ring 
to and over the finger joint. Uncoil 
the string by taking the end placed 
through the ring and at the same time 
keep the ring close up to the string. 
In this way the ring can be easily slip- 




Wrapp 



ped over the knuckle and i 
finger. — Contributed by J 
Marietta. Tenii. 



A Photographic Jig-Saw Puzzle 

Take any photographic print and 
mount it on heavy cardboard, or, if you 




Picture Marked for Cutting 

have a jig saw. a thin smooth w 1 

board and mark out various shaped 
pieces as shown in the accompanying 
cut. If the picture is mounted on card- 
board, the lines can be cut through 
with a sharp pointed knife. It you 
have a jig saw. you can make a bro- 
mide enlargement from the negative 
you have selected and mount (he print 
on a smooth board that is not too thick. 
This wood-mounted picture can be 
sawed out making all shapes of blocks, 
which forms a perfect jig-saw puzzle. 
— Contributed by Erich Lehmann, 
New York City. 



>ff from the 
K. Miller 



Rolling Uphill Illusion 

This interesting as well as entertain- 
ing illusion, can be made by anyone 
having a wood-turning lathe. A solid, 
similar to two cones placed base to 
base, is accurately turned in a lathe, 
the sides sloping to an angle of \~> deg. 
The spindle can be turned out of the 
si -lid at the same time as the c< me ; i ir, 
after turning the cone, drive an iron or 
wood shaft through the center making 
a tight fit. 

The boards for the track are made 
with a sloping edge on which the cone 
is to roll. This slope will depend on 
the diameter of the com-, which can be 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



any size from :> to 12 in. The slope 
should not be too Hat, or the cone will 
not roll, and it should be such that the 




The Illusion 

one end will be higher than the other 
by a little less than half the diameter 
of the cone. Thus it will be seen that 
the diameter of the cone determines the 
length of the slope of the tracks. A 
notch should be cut in the tracks, as 
indicated, for the shaft to drop into at 
the end < if the course. 

The lower end of the tracks are 
closed until the high edge of the cone 
rests upon the inside edges of the tracks 
and the high end spread sufficiently to 
take the full width of the cone and to 
allow tlie shaft to fall into the notches. 
When the cone and tracks are viewed 
from the broadside the deception will 
lie more perfect, and will not be dis- 
covered until the construction ,<\ the 
model is seen from all sides. Should 
it be difficult to make the cone from 
wood, a good substitute can be made 
from two funnels. — Contributed by 1. 
(',. Bayley, Cape May Point, X. J. 



Annealing Chisel Steel 

Persons who have occasion to use 
tool or carbon steel now and then and 
do not have access to an assorted stock 
of this material find that the kind most 
readily obtained at the hardware store 
is the unannealed steel known as chisel 
steel. Machining or filing such steel 
is exceedingly slow and difficult, be- 
sides the destruction of tools; as a 
matter of fact this steel is intended for 



chisels, drills, and like tools which re- 
quire only forging and filing. If this 
steel is annealed, it can be worked as 
easily as the more expensive annealed 
steel. 

Annealing may be done by heating 
the steel to a cherry red, not any more, 
and burying it in a box of slaked lime, 
where it is allowed to remain until all 
the heat is gone. If well done, the 
metal will be comparatively soft and 
in a condition to machine easily and 
rapidly. In lieu of lime, bury in ashes, 
sand, loam, or any substance not in- 
flammable, but fine enough to closely 
surround the steel and exclude the air 
so that the steel cools very slowly. 

If possible, keep the steel red hot 
in the fire several hours, the longer the 
better. In certain processes, like that 
of file manufacturing, the steel blanks 
are kept hot for Is hours or more. 
Where it is impossible to wait so long 
as the foregoing method takes, then a 
cold water anneal may be used with 
less time. This method consists of 
heating the work as slowly and thor- 
oughly as the time will permit, then 




above photograph 
mtins a maple leaf or 
rk, then printing on top th 
gative, and finished 



the 



made by first 
paper, not too 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



53 



removing the steel from the fire and al- 
lowing it to cool in the air until black 
and then quenching in water. 

In addition to softening the steel, 
annealing benefits the metal by reliev- 
ing strains in the piece, .should a par- 
ticularly accurate job be called for, the 
steel should be annealed again after 
the roughing cuts have been taken and 
before machining to the final size. 
This will insure a true job and dimin- 
ishes the danger of Spring in the final 
hardening. — Contributed by Donald A. 
Hampson, Middletown, N. Y. 



How to Make a Post Card Holder 

This holder is designed to lay flat 
on the counter or to stack one on top 
of the other, keeping each variety of 
cards separate, or a number of them 
can be fastened on any upright surface 
to display either horizontal or vertical 
cards. 

The holders can be made from sheet 
tin, zinc, brass or aluminum. The 
dimensions for the right size are given 
in Fig. 1; the dotted line showing 
where the bends are made. The c<>m- 




Pattern for Cutting the Metal 

pleted holder is shown in Fig. 2 as 
fastened to a wall. — Contributed by 
John F. Williamson, Daytona, Fla. 



Do not allow paint that is left over 
from a job to stand uncovered. The 
can should lie tightly sealed and the 
paint will be found suitable for use for 
several days. 



Perfume-Making Outfit 

The real perfume front the flowers 
is not always contained in the liquid 
purchased for 
perfume. I It e 
most expensive 
perfume can be 
made at home 
for less than in 
cents an ounce. 
The i lUtfit neces- 
sary is a large 
bottle or glass 
jar with a small- 
er bottle to fit 
snugly into the 
open mouth of 
the large one. 
Secure a small 
piece < if very line 
spi mge and wash 
it clean to thor- 
ough!) remove 
all grit and sand. 
Saturate the sponge with pure olive 
oil, do not use strong oil, and place it 
inside of the smaller bottle. 

Fill the large bottle or jar with 
flowers, such as roses, carnations, 
pansies. honeysuckles or any flower 
having a strong and swei t odor. Place 
the small bottle containing the sponge 
upside down in the large one, as shown 
in the illustration. 

The bottle is now placed in the sun 
and kept there for a day and then the 
flowers are removed and fresh ones 
put in. Change the flowers each day 
as long as they bloom. Remove the 
sponge and squeeze out the oil. For 
each drop of oil add 2 oz. of grain al- 
cohol. Tf stronger perfume is desired 
add only ] oz. alcohol to each drop of 




Home-Made Duplicator for Box 
Cameras 

The projecting tube of the lens on 
a hand camera can be easily fitted 
with a duplicator while the box camera 
with its lens set on the inside and 
nothing but a hole in the box does not 
have such advantages. A small piece 
of heavy cardboard can be made to 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



produce the same results on a box 
camera as a first-class duplicator ap- 
plied to a hand camera. The card- 




Duplicator Attached to 



board is cut triangular and attached 
to the front end of the camera as shown 
in Fig. 1 with a pin about 1 in. above 
the lens opening. A rubber band 
placed around the lower end of the 
cardboard and camera holds the former 
at any position it is placed. A slight 
pressure of the finger on the point A, 
Fig. 2, will push the cardboard over 
and expose one-half of the plate and 
the same pressure at B, Fig. 3, will re- 
verse the operation and expose the 
other one-half. Pins can be stuck in 
the end of the camera on each side of 
the lens opening at the right place to 
stop the cardboard for the exposure. 
With this device one can duplicate the 
picture of a person on the same nega- 
tive. — Contributed by Maurice Han- 
dier, New Orleans, La. 



Optical Illusions 

The accompanying sketch shows 
two optical illusions, the first having 
a perfect circle on the outside edge ap- 




The Two Illusions 

pears to be flattened at the points A, 
and the arcs of the circle, 1'., appear to 
be more rounding. In the second fig- 



ure the circle appears to have an oval 
form with the distance from C to C 
greater than from D to D. A compass 

applied to the circles in either figures 
will show that they are perfectly 
round. — Contributed by Norman S. 
Brown, Chippewa Falls, Wis. 

Use of Kerosene in Polishing Metals 

Anyone who has polished a flat iron 
or steel surface with emery cloth knows 
how soon the cloth gums and fills up. 
The cloth in this condition will do little 
or no cutting. A simple remedy for 
this trouble is to use kerosene on the 
surface. The oil floats away a lar«;e 
part of the gumming substance and 
leaves the emery cloth sharp and clean 
to do the best work, also, it seems to 
act as a lubricant to keep particles of 
metal from collecting on the cloth and 
scratching or digging in the surface of 
the metal. A very light lard oil is 
equally good for this purpose, but not 
always easily obtained. A surface 
polished where oil or kerosene is used 
does not rust so easily as one polished 
dry. for the reason that a little oil re- 
mains on the metal. 

Kerosene is the best to use on oil 
stones, being better than heavier oil. 
This oil readily floats away all particles 
of the feather edge that are liable to 
become loosened and forced into the 
stone. These particles of metal when 
stuck to the stone are the cause of 
spoiling it, as well as nicking the tools 
that are being sharpened. Keep the 
surface of the stone well oiled at all 
times to make the cutting free. — Con- 
tributed by Donald A. Hampson, Mid- 
dletown, N. Y. 



How to Make Lamps Burn Brightly 

For a good, steady light there is 
nothing better than a lamp, but like 
most everything it must have attention. 
After cleaning well and fitting it. place 
a small lump of camphor in the oil 
vessel. This will greatly improve the 
light and make the flame clearer and 
brighter. If there is no camphor at 
hand add a few drops of vinegar oc- 
casionally. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
A Practical Camera for Fifty Cents 



55 



By C. H. Claudy 



I say for fifty cents, hut really this is 
an outside estimate. If you possess a 
few tools and the rudiments of a shop, 
by which is meant a few odds and ends 
of screws, brass and nails, you can 
really make this camera for nothing. 

The camera box is the first considera- 
tion, and for this a cigar box answers 
every purpose. It is better to use one 
of the long boxes which contain a hun- 
dred cigars and which have square 
ends. This box should be cut down, 
by means of a saw and a plate, until 
the ends are 4 in. square. Leave the 
lid hinged as it is when it comes. Clean 
all the paper from the outside and in- 



i- advised, the box should measure that 
size in its internal dimensions. 

We now come to the construction 
of the most essential part of the camera 
— the pin hole and the shutter, which 
take the place of the lens and shutter 
used in more expensive outfits. This 
construction is illustrated in Fig. 4. 
Take a piece of brass, about 1/16 in. 
thick and 1'- in. square, liore a hole 
in each corner, to take a small screw, 
which will fasten it to the front of the 
camera. With 'i-in. drill bore nearly 
through the plate in the center, but be 
careful that the point of the drill docs 
not come through. This will produce 




Construction of C 



side of the box — which may be readily 
done with a piece of lTiss for a scraper 
and a damp cloth — and paint the in- 
terior of the box a dead black, either 
with carriage makers' black or black 
ink. 

Now bore in the center of one end a 
small hole, L in. or less in diameter. 
Finally insert on the inside of the box, 
on the sides, two small strips of wood, 
] /s by Yi in. and fasten them with glue, 
Ys in. from the other end of the box. 
Examine Fig. 1, and see the location 
of these strips, which are lettered EE. 
Their purpose is to hold the plate, 
which may be any size desired up to 
4 in. square. Commercially, [dates 
come 3 1 /-; by 3 x /2 in., or, in the lantern 
slide plate, 3*4 by 4 in. If it is desired 
to use the 3% by 3V 2 in. plates, which 



the recess shown in the first section in 
Fig. I. Now take a Xo. 1<> needle, in- 
sert the eye end in a piece of wood and 
very carefully and gently twirl it in the 
center of the brass where it is the thin- 
nest, until it goes through. This pin 
hole, as it is called, is what produces 
the image on the sensitive plate, in a 
manner which I shall presently de- 
scribe. 1"he shutter consists of a little 
swinging piece of brass completely 
covering the recess and pin hole, and 
provided with a little knob at its lower 
end. See big. ■'!, in which F is the front 
of the camera, I'. the brass plate and 
C the shutter. This is also illustrated 
in the second cross section in Fig. 4. 
In the latter I have depicted it as swung 
from a pivot in the brass, and in Fig. 3 
as hung from a screw in the wood of 



56 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



the front board 
will be effective. 



either construction 



of your vision 
the little frame. 



,-hen confined within 




Explanat 

Lastly, it is necessary to provide 
finder fur this camera in order to kno 
what picture 
you are taking. 
M a k e a little 
frame of wire, 
the size of the 
plate you are 
u s i n g, a n d 
m o unt it up- 
right (see Fig. 

• r >) on top of the camera as close to the 
end where the pin hole is as you can. 
At the other end, in the center, erect 
a little pole of wire half the height of 
the plate. If now you look along the 
top of this little pole, through the wire 
frame and see that the top of the little 
pule appears in the center of the frame, 
everything that you see beyond will be 



When you want to use this camera, 
take it into an absolutely dark room 



y 





w 

11 ! a 
;,o j 

c " 


F 
-B 

F.G3 

- 



Hole and Shutte 



taken on the plate, as will be made plain 
by looking at the dotted lines in Fig. 
5, which represents the outer limits 



Constructing a Finder for Camera 

and insert a plate (which you can buy 
at any supply store for photographers) 
in the end where the slides of wood 
are, and between them and the back of 
the box. Close the lid and secure it 
with a couple of rubber bands. See 
that the little shutter covers the hole. 
Ni iw take the camera to where you wish 
to take a photograph, and rest it se- 
curely on some solid surface. The ex- 
posure will be, in bright sunlight and 
supposing that your camera is 10 in. 
long, about six to eight seconds. This 
exposure is made by lifting the little 
brass shutter until the hole is un- 
covered, keeping it up the required 
time, and then letting it drop back into 
place. It is important that the camera 
be held rigid daring the exposure, and 
that it does not move and is not jarred 
■ — otherwise the picture will be blurred. 
Remove the plate in the dark room and 
pack it carefully in a pasteboard box 
and several wrappings of paper to pro- 
tect it absolutely from the light. It is 
now ready to be carried to some one 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



57 



who knows how to do developing and 
printing. 

To explain the action of the pin hole 
I would direct attention to Fig. *.'. I lore 
F represents the front of the camera, 
D the pin hole, AA the plate and the 
letters RR, rays from a lighted candle. 
These rays of course, radiate in all di- 
rections, an infinite multitude of them. 
Similar rays radiate from every point 
of the object, from light reflected from 
these points. Certain of these rays 
strike the pin hole in the front of the 
camera, represented here by RRRR. 
These rays pass through the pin hole, 
and as light travels only in straight 
lines, reach the plate AA, forming an 
inverted image of the object, in this 
case a candle in a candlestick. Mil- 
lions of rays are given off by every 
point in every object which is lighted 
by either direct or reflected light. To 
all practical purposes only one of these 
rays from each point in an object can 
pass through a minute opening like a 
pin hole. This being so, any screen 
which interrupts these selected rays of 
light will show upon it a picture of the 
object, only inverted. If that screen 
happens to be a photographically sen- 
sitive plate, which is protected from all 
other light by being in a dark box, upon 
it will be imprinted a photographic 
image which can be made visible by 
the application of certain chemicals, 
when it becomes a negative, from 
which may be printed positives. This 
camera is not a theoretical possibility, 
but an actual fact. I have made and 
used one successfully, as a demonstra- 
tion of pin-hole photography. 

Use for an Old Clock 

Remove the hair spring of the clock, 
and fasten a spring to one end of the 
pawl and a small wire to the other end. 
Make a slit in the case of the clock 
opposite the pawl. Fasten the spring 
on the outside in anv convenient way 
and pass the wire through the slit to 
an eccentric or other oscillating body. 

To make the dial, paste a piece of 
paper over the old dial, pull the wire 
back and forth one hundred times, and 



make a mark where the minute hand 
Mops. Using this for a unit divide up 
the whole dial. The hour hand has an 
inner circle of its own. Put the alarm 
hand at a little before twelve and wind 
the alarm. 'When the alarm is un- 




wound the hour hand starts on a new 
trip. The clock I used was put on an 
amateur windmill and when the hour 
hand went around once 86,400 revolu- 
tions or jerks on the wire were made. 
while the minute hand recorded one- 
twelfth of tin- number, or 7,200.— Con- 
tributed by Richard II. Ranger, Indian- 
apolis, Ind. 



Renewing Dry Batteries 

Dry batteries, if not too far gone, 
can be renewed by simply boring a 
small hole through the composition on 
top of each carbon and pouring some 
strong salt water or sal ammoniac solu- 
tion into the holes. This kink is sent 
us by a reader who says that the pro- 
cess will make the battery nearly as 
good as new if it is not too far gone 
beforehand. 



If a round brush spreads too much, 
slip a rubber band over the upper part 

of the bristles. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Simple Burglar Alarm 

Take a piece of any wood about 6 l>y 
8 in. for the base. This may be fin- 
ished in any way desired. For the con- 
tact points use brass or any sheet metal 




door or window and any movement of 
it will pull it to the contact point on 
the right. If the string is cut or broken 
the spring will pull the lexer to the con- 
tact point on the left and thus complete 
the circuit. If the string is burned it 
will also act as a fire alarm. 



CONTACT MCTAL 



How to Fit Corks 

( >ccasionally odd-sized bottles are re- 
ceived in stores which require corks 
cut to fit them. No matter how sharp 
a knife may be, it will leave some sharp 
edges after cutting the cork, which will 
cause leakage. The illustration shows 
three very effective methods of reduc- 
ing the size of corks. The one shown 
in Fig. 1 is made from two pieces of 
Yz-\u. wood fastened together at one 
end with a common hinge. Two or 
three grooves are cut cross-wise in sizes 
desired. The cork is put into the 
groove and both pieces are pressed to- 
gether, which will make the cork 
smaller. 

Rollins: the cork between two flat 



Simple Burglar Alarm 

which will l>e satisfactory. Take a 
piece about ;*'_• or '■'■ in. in length and 
bend the ends up about ' _■ in. in a ver- 
tical position as shown. Fasten this to 
the top of the hoard using screws or 
nails. Under this strip of metal fasten 
a copper wire which can he connected 
to a binding-post on the board if de- 
sired. Take another piece of metal 
about 4 ' _• in. in length and make a 
lexer of it in the shape shown in the 
diagram. Fasten this so that one end 
of it will swing freely, but not loosely 
between the ends of the oilier piece 
marked C-C. Near the end fasten a 
spiral spring, S, which can be obtained 
almost anywhere. Fasten the end oi 
this to the screw marked X. Also 
fasten to this screw a cupper wire lead- 
ing to the binding-post. Jn the lower 
end of the lever make a small hole to 
fa-ten a string through. 

This string may be fastened across a 




surfaces (big. 2) is simple and almost 
as good as pressing in the grooves. A 
cork rolled on the floor (Fig. 3) is a 
quick and effective way. A slower and 
equally as gi >> id way is to soak the cork 
in hot water for a short time. — Con- 
tributed by L. Szerlip, Brooklyn, N. V. 



Standing at the cylinder end and 
looking toward the flywheel of an en- 
gine, the wheel will be at the right if 
the engine is right-hand. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Home-Made Crutch 

While a fractured bone was healing 
in the limb of my boy he needed a pair 
of crutches and not being able to se- 
cure the right length, 1 set about to 
make the crutches from two broom 
handles. 1 split the handles to within 
1 ft. of the end (Fig. 1 ) with a rip saw. 
and then stuck them in a barrel of 
water for three days to make the wood 
pliable fur bending. A grip fur each 
stick was made as long as the hand is 
wide and a hole bored through the cen- 
ter the size of a No. in gauge wire. 
These grips were placed between the 
two halves of each stick at the right 
distance for the length of the boy's arm 
and a wire run through both split 




1 

iu 



Handle Crutch 



pieces and the handle then riveted as 
shown in Fig. 2. Another piece was 
cut as shown at A, Fig. .">, and nailed to 
the upper ends of each half of the 
broom handle. — Contributed by Geo 
P. Grehore, Nashville, Term. 



Home-Made Necktie Holder 

The gas bracket is considered a g 1 

place to hang neckties, even if it dues 
crowd them together. The illustration 
shows a better method, a curtain rod 
attached to one end of a bureau. Two 
1< mg-shanked, square-hi » iked screws 
should be used, so they may be screwed 



beneath and close up to the pr< 
top. When removed they will 1 



lectins; 
ea vc if 



e=^-s 




hgurin, , 
Xeiman, New Y 



How to Make a Trousers Hanger 

Secure from your tinsmith a piece of 
sheel metal : in. wide and 12 in. long. 
Cut the metal as shown in Fig. 1 ami 
make a cl ise bend at the point A, but 
not too close to cause it to break. The 
piece will then appear as shown in Fig. 
2. Cut a piece from the waste mate- 
rial I o in. wide and ■>> , in. li mg ami 
bend it around the two pieces I',. Fig. 
2, s, , it will slide freely on their length. 
Bend the edges < ! in for \ ' s in. to hold 
the trousers firmly. Drill a hole 
through the top end of B and attach 
a wire formed into a hook for use in 
hanging on a nail. The bottom end of 
the trousers is inserted between the 
jaws C and the small ferrule pushed 




Cut from Sheet Metal 

down to clamp them on the cloth. — 
Contributed by A. Levinson, Saginaw, 
.Michigan. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

Easy Designs in Ornamental Iron Work 



Many an industrious lad has made 
money manufacturing the common 
forms of wood brackets, shelves, boxes, 
stands, etc., but the day of the scroll 




saw and the cigar-box wood bracket 
and picture frame has given way to the 
more advanced and more profitable 
work of metal construction. Metal 
brackets, stands for lamps, gates, parts 
of artistic fences for gardens, support- 
ing arms for signs, etc., are among the 
articles of modern times that come un- 
der the head of things possible to con- 
struct of iron in the back room or attic 
shop. The accompanying sketches pre- 
sent some of the articles possible to 
manufacture. 

First, it is essential that a light room 
be available, or a portion of the cellar 
where there is light, or a workshop 
may be built in the yard. Buy a mod- 



erate sized anvil, a vise and a few other 
tools, including bell hammer, and this 
is all required for cold bending. If you 
go into a forge for hot bending, other 
devices will be needed. Figure 1 shows 
how to make the square bend, getting 
the shoulder even. The strip metal is 
secured at the hardware store or the 
iron works. Often the strips can be 
secured at low cost from junk dealers. 
Metal strips about % in. wide and Ys 
in. thick are preferable. The letter A 
indicates a square section of iron, 
though an anvil would do, or the base 
of a section of railroad iron. The bend 
is worked on the corner as at B, cold. 
If a rounded bend is desired, the same 
process is applied on the circular piece 
of iron or the horn of an anvil. This is 
shown in Fig. 2, at C. This piece of 
iron can be purchased at any junk 
store, where various pieces are always 
strewn about. A piece about 20 in. 
long and 4 in. in diameter is about the 
right size. The bend in the metal be- 
gins at D and is made according to the 
requirements. Occasionally where 
sharp bends or abrupt corners are need- 
ed, the metal is heated previous to 
bending. 

Although the worker may produce 
various forms of strip-metal work, the 
bracket is, as a rule, the most profitable 
tn handle. The plain bracket is shown 
in Fig. 3, and is made by bending the 
strip at the proper angle on form A, 
after which the brace is adjusted by 
means of rivets. A rivet hole boring 
tool will be needed. A small metal 
turning or drilling lathe can be pur- 
chased for a few dollars and operated 
by hand for the boring, or a common 
hand drill can be used. Sometimes the 
bracket is improved in design by add- 
ing a few curves to the end pieces of 
the brace, making the effect as shown 
in Fig. 4. After these brackets are 
made they are coated with asphaltum 
or Japan ; or the brackets may be paint- 
ed or stained any desired shade. 

In some of the work required, it is 
necessarv to shape a complete loop or 
circle at the end of the piece. This may 



POP II LA 11 MECHANICS 



61 



be wrought out as in Fig. 5. The use 
of a bar of iron or steel is as shown. 
The bar is usually about 2 in. in diam- 
eter and several feet in length, so that 
it will rest firmly on a base of wood or 
stone. Then the bending is effected as 
at F, about the bar E, by repeated 
blows with the hammer. After a little 
practice, it is possible to describe al- 
most any kind of a circle with the ti m ils. 
The bar can be bought at an iron deal- 
ers for about 40 cents. From the junk- 
pile of junk shop one may get a like 
bar for a few cents. 

A convenient form for shaping strip- 
metal into pieces required for brackets, 
fences, gates, arches, and general trim- 
mings is illustrated at Fig. 6. First 
there ought to be a base block, G, of 
hard wood, say about 2 ft. square. With 
a round point or gouging chisel work 
out the groove to the size of the bar, 
forming a seat, by sinking the bar, II, 
one-half its depth into the wood as 
shown. In order to retain the bar se- 
curely in position in the groove, there 
should be two caps fitted over it and 
set-screwed to the wooden base. These 
caps may be found in junk dealers' 
heaps, having been cast off from 2-in. 
shaft boxes. ( )r if caps are not avail- 
able, the caps can be constructed from 
sheet metal by bending to the form of 
the bar, allowing side portions or lips 
for boring, so that the caps can be set- 
screwed to the wood. Thus we get a 
tool which can be used on the bench 
for the purpose of effecting series of 
bends in strips of metal. 

Since the introduction of the laws re- 
quiring that signs of certain size and 
projection be removed from public 
thoroughfares in cities, there has been 
quite a call for short sign brackets, so 
termed, of the order exhibited in Fig. 
7. These sign-supporting brackets do 
not extend more than .'i ft. out from 
the building. A boy can take orders 
for these signs in almost any city or 
large town with a little canvassing. The 
sign supporting bracket shown is mere- 
ly a suggestion. < tther designs may be 
wrought out in endless variety. \ hook 
or eve is needed to sustain the ring in 
the sign. 



The young man who undertakes ti i 
construct any sort of bracket, supports, 
frames or the like, will find that lie will 
get many orders for lamp-supporting 
contrivances, such as shown at Fig. 8. 
It is hardly necessary to go into details 




Of3 



H 



*,]v: 



^^sms 



r^ 



for making these stands, as every part 
is bent as described in connection with 
the bending forms, and the portions are 
simply riveted at the different junc- 
tures. Both iron and copper rivets are 
used as at I, in Fig. 9, a cross sectional 
view. 

The best way is to bore straight 
through both pieces and insert the 
rivet. In some cases the rivet is head- 
ed up in the bore and again washers 
are used and the heading effected on 
the washer. Copper rivets are soft and 
easily handled, but are costly as com- 
pared with iron rivets. 

Good prices are obtained for the 
guard-, for open fireplaces made in 
many varieties in these days. The re- 



62 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



turn of the open fireplace in modern 
houses has created a demand for these 
guards and in Fig. 1<> we show a design 
for one of them. The posts are made 




sufficiently stiff by uniting two sides 
with rivets. The ends at top are looped 
as shown, while the ends or butts at 
the base are opened out to make the 
feet. Rings are shaped on forms and 
are then riveted to the base cross-piece 
as illustrated. Crosses are made to de- 
scribe to central design and the plan 
is worked out quite readily with the 
different shapes. 

The making of metal fire grate fronts 
has proven to lie a very interesting and 
profitable occupation for boys in recent 



times. Not long ago it was sufficient 
for the ingenious youth to turn out 
juvenile windmills, toy houses and var- 
ious little knickknacks for amusement. 
The modern lad wants more than this, 
lie desires to turn some of his product 
into cash. Therefore we present some 
of the patterns of fire grates which boys 
have made and can make again from 
scrap iron, with few tools and devices, 
and find a ready market for the same 
as soon as they are made. Figure 11 
is a sketch of a form of fire grate bar 
or front that is constructed with a se- 
ries of circles of strip metal. The best 
way is to go to the hardware store or 
iron dealer's and buy a quantity of 
1 i -in., '--in., and %-in. iron, about V$ 
to ,',,-in. thick. In fact t^-in. metal 
would do in many cases where the 
parts are worked out small in size. 
The 's-in. metal is very strong. Then 
after getting the supply of strip metal 
in stock, procure the usual type of 
metal worker's hammer, a cheap anvil, 
a !)-ll>. vise, a cold chisel, a file or two, 
and a round piece of shaft iron, about 
:> in. diameter and 2 to 3 ft. long. This 
piece of iron is represented at B, Fig. 
12. 

The iron is held in position by means 
of the straps of metal C, C, which are 
bent over the shaft tightly and grip the 
hoard base with set or lag screws as 
shown. The wooden base should be 
about 2 in. thick and large enough to 
make a good support for the iron shaft. 
The pr' 'cess of bending the rings in this 
way is as shown. The piece of strip 
iron is grasped at D. Then with the 
hammer the iron is gradually worked 
cold about the mandrel as at F until 
the perfect form is acquired. After the 
form is finished, the strip at the ter- 
minus of the ring is cut off. In order 
to get a steady base the wooden part 
may be bolted to a bench. In Fig. 13 
is shown the method of clipping off the 
completed ring. The cold chisel is held 
upright, and by delivering several 
blows with the hammer upon the same, 
the point is caused to chip through the 
metal and release the ring. The shaft 
or mandrel is marked G. The cold 
chisel is indicated at I and the position 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



where the hand grasps the strip is at II. 
The final operation in shaping the ring 
is by driving the protruding cut, lip 
down, to the common level of the oppo- 
site point, thus giving us the finished 
ring with the lips closed on the man- 
drel as at J, Fig. 1 1. These rings can 
be turned out in this way very speedily. 
The next operation involves the pri icess 
of uniting the rings in the plan to shape 
the design. The design work is often 
worked out ahead and followed. Some 
become so proficient that they can de- 
velop a design as they proceed. 

Figure 11 is a design of grate front 
used for various purposes in connection 
with grate fires. The series of rings are 
united by a rivet between each at the 
joining point. With thin metal the 
holes can be punched with an iron 
punch and hammer on an anvil where 
there is a hole to receive the point of 
the punch after the punch penetrates 
the metal. For the heavier forms of 
metal a drill is necessary. \ metal 
drill and brace can be purchased very 
cheaply for this work. After drilling 
the holes, the parts are erected and the 
rivets inserted and headed up as i 
addition is made. Thus the series of 
rings are united and then the side pieces 
are similarly riveted. The points a1 the 
top are then wi irked i ml and joined i m. 
These points are filed down to the nee 
essary taper after the union is efTet ted. 
The finishing work involves smoothing 
rough places with a file and painting. 
Asphaltum makes a good black finish. 
Some of the best designs of grates are 
bronzed. Some are silvered. The dif- 
ferent designs are finished as desired 
by customers. 

Figure 15 is another design of grate 
in which the process of shaping tin- 
rings is like that in the first design. 
There are some half circles in tins pat- 
tern and these are framed by shaping 
the same about the mandrel with the 
hammer. In order to get the shoulders 
close and the circle complete it is nec- 
essary to heat the metal. \ coke lire 
can be made in a hole in the ground. 
Then procure a tin blowpipe and blow 
the flame against the metal at the point 
to be bent. This metal will beci une red 



hot very soon, and can be bent readily 
against the anvil and the circular form. 
Let the metal cool off on the ground 
after heating. Fig. 16 is another design 




!» 




1 M 


II 


m 


K 


• 


xj§ 


XH, 








■ 



which can be wrought out. 'I he middle 
adjustment is wire screen work which 
may be bought at a hardware store and 
set into the position shown. Fig. 11 
shows a chipping off device useful in 
connection with this work. Metal chip- 
pers can be bought at any tool store. 
The chipper is placed in the jaws of 
the vise as at K, and secured there 
The strip of metal in process of cutting 
is marked M. The hammer lit 
caused to strike the metal just over the 
cutting edge of the chipper. The quick, 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



hard blow causes the cutting edge to 
penetrate far enough to sever the piece. 
I '.ending cold with a wooden form is 
done as in Fig. is. The wooden form 
is marked 1' and is about 8 in. wide 
and ) in. high, forming a one-sided oval 
shape. There is a pin R set into the 
base board of the oval form and the 
strip of metal for bending is grasped at 
S and the other end is inserted back of 
the pin R. By applying pressure, the 
strip of metal is bent to the form. 

Figure 19 shows the hour-glass wood 
bending form, made by selecting a 
piece of hard wood block, about <i in. 
square and boring through with an inch 



bit. Then the hole is shaped hour-glass 
like. The view is a sectional one. The 
block is placed in a vise and the strip 
for bending is inserted as at T. 

The strip of metal is grasped at W 
and can be bent to various forms by ex- 
erting pressure. Fig. 2i> is another type 
of fireplace front, constructed by unit- 
ing the shaped metal pieces. In fact an 
almost endless variety of designs can 
be wrought out after the start is once 
made. A good way to figure the price 
on the grate is to add up the costs of 
the parts and charge about 12 cents 
per hour for the work. 



How to Make a Water Wheel 



Considerable power can be developed 
with an overshot water wheel erected 
as in Fig. 1. This wheel is made with 
blocks of wood cut out in sections as 
indicated by the lines, so as to form the 
circle properly. The wheel can lie 




Overshot and Undershot Wheels 

about 21 in. in diameter to produce re- 
sults and about 1<> in. wide. Get some 
tin cans and attach them around the 
wheel as shown. Bore the wheel cen- 
ter out and put on the grooved wood 
wheel, P, and a rope for driving, R. 
This rope runs to a wooden frame in the 
manner illustrated. The water is carried 
in a sluice affair, N, to the fall, O, where 
the water dippers are struck by the vol- 
ume and from 2 to I hp. will be pro- 
duced with this size of wheel if there is 
sufficient flow of water. This power 
can be used for running two or three 
sewing machines, fans, fret-saws, and 
the like. Another form of water wheel 
is shown in Fig. 2. This is driven by 
an underflow of current. This type of 
wheel can be made on lines similar to 
the other, only that the paddles are of 



win id and extend outward as shown. 
The wheel is supported in a bearing on 
the piece S. A belt, T, communicates 
the power to the wheel V and from here 
the power is carried to any desired 
point. 



How To Build An Imitation Street 
Car Line 

An imitation street car line may 
sound like a big undertaking, but, in 
fact, it is one of the easiest things a boy 
can construct, does not take much time 
and the expense is not great. A boy 
who lives on a farm can find many fine 
places to run such a line, and one in 
town can have a line between the house 
and tlie barn, if they are some distance 
apart. 

( )ften all the boards and blocks re- 
quired can be had for helping a carpen- 
ter clear away the rubbish around a 
new building. Wheels and parts of old 
bicycles, which can be used in so many 
ways, can be found at a junk shop at 
very low prices, wheels in good repair 
are not expensive. For the car for the 
street car line try to find a set of wheels 
having axles, but if you cannot find 
such, make shafts of hard wood, about 
:i in. bv '.''-j in. and by means of a jack- 
knife turn, or shave down the ends to 
receive the hub bearings of the wheels. 
Fasten the wheel hubs securely over 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



the ends of the wood with pins or little 
bolts, or if the wheel bearing is of such 
a nature that it revolves on its 
own journal, the journal can be 
fastened to the end of the wood 
piece. Each of the wheels should 
be provided with a sprocket ; any 
chain sprocket of a bicycle may 
be used. Fasten these sprockets 
on the outside of the wheels as 
shown in Fig. 1. They can be set 
en over the bearing end and se- 
cured with a set .screw, or the 
original key can be employed. 
It is best in cases like this to use 
the original parts. Make the floor 
of the car of pieces of boards 
placed i hi the axles and nailed, 
screwed or bolted, as shown at A. To 
erect the frame, place uprights, ( C C 
C, in position as shown, fastening the 
ends to the base-boards, and making 
the roof line 
as at l'i, then 
put in t h e 
cross - pieces, 
GG. Seals, E 
E, are simply 
bi ixes. T h e 
drive of t h e 
car is effected 
by using the driving sprockets, D D, 
fitted to the crosspieces, G G, with the 
original bearings. The parts are there- 
by secured to the car and the chain 
placed on. 

Key the cranks for turning to the 
upper sprocket's shaft and all is ready. 
If there are sprocket gears and cranks 
on either side, four boys may propel 
the carat one time. Considerable speed 
can be made on smooth mads, but it is 
the best amusement to run a car line 
on wooden tracks with a brake con- 
sisting of a piece of wooden shaft, pass- 
ing through a bore in the car floor, and 
fitted with a leather covered pad as at 
H. A spiral spring holds up the brake 
until pressure is applied by font power, 
when the brake contacts with the 
wooden track and checks the car. 

The track plan is illustrated in Fig. 
?. ( let some boards ami place them end 
for end on other pieces set as tics. The 
main boards or tracks, J J, can be about 




<; in. wide, to the edges of which nail 
strips about % in. wide and about the 




Construction of Car 

same height. The ties, I I, can be al- 
most any box boards. Wire nails are 
the best to use in putting the tracks 
together. The sprocket connection 
with the chain is shown in Fig. '.'<. This 
consists of the sprocket gear on the 
propelling shaft, and the crank. The 
pedals may be removed and a chisel 
handle, or any tool handle, substituted, 
so as to afford means for turning the 




U 



Section of the Track 

crank by hand power. Great fun can 
be had with the mad. and. furthermore, 
it can be made remunerative, as boys 
and girls can be given rides for a penny 
each. 

\pply a coal of raw starch water to 
a dirty wall before painting; this, when 
dry, may be brushed or wiped off. 



A good varnish for electric terminals 
is made of sealing wax dissolved in 
gasoline. To prevent brittleness add a 
little linseed oil. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Make a Bell Tent 



A bell tent is easily made and is nice 
for lawns, as well as for a hoy's camp- 
ing outfit. The illustrations show a 
plan of a tent U ft. in diameter. To 
make such a tent, procure unbleached 
tent duck, which is the very best ma- 
terial for the purpose, says the Cleve- 
land Plain Dealer. .Make 22 sections, 
shaped like Fig. 3, each 10 ft. (i in. long 
and 2 ft. 2 in. wide at the bottom, taper- 
ing in a straight line to a point at the 
top. These dimensions allow for the 
laid or lapped seams, which should be 



of the wall firmly to the bell cover at 
the point indicated by the dotted line, 

For the top of the tent have the 
blacksmith make a hoop of Vi-in. round 
galvanized iron, 6 in. diameter. Stitch 
the canvas at the apex around the hoop 
and along the sides. Make the apex 
into a hood and line it with stiff canvas. 
Have the tent pole ■'] in. in diameter, 
made in two sections, with a socket 
joint and rounded at the top to fit into 
the apex of the tent. 




double-stitched on a machine. The 
last seam sew only for a distance of 4 
ft. from the top, leaving the rest for an 
opening. At the end of this seam stitch 
on an extra gusset piece so that it will 
not rip. Fold back the edges of the 
opening and the bottom edge of the 
bell-shaped cover and hind it with wide 
webbing, :! in. across and having eye- 
lets at the scams for attaching the stay 
ropes. Near the apex of the cover cut 
three triangular holes 8 in. long and 4 
in. wide at the bottom and hem the 
edges. These are ventilators. Make 
the tent wall of the same kind of cloth 
2 ft. 2 in. high, bind it at the upper 
edge with webbing and at the bottom 
with canvas. Also stitch on coarse 
canvas (I in. wide at the bottom, and 
the space between the ground and the 
wall when the tent is raised, fill with 
canvas edging. Stitch the upper edge 



In raising the tent, fasten down the 
wall by means of loops of stout line 
fastened to its lower edge and small 
pegs driven through them into the 
ground, Fig. 5. Run the stay ropes 
from the eyelets in the circular cover 
to stakes ( Fig. ■">) stuck in the ground. 
I'se blocks, as in Fig. 6, on the stay 
ropes for holding the ends and adjust- 
ing the length of the ropes. 



Simple X-Ray Experiment 

The outlines of the bones of the hand 
may be seen by holding a piece of rice 
paper before the eyes and placing the 
spare hand about 12 in. back of the rice 
paper and before a bright light. The 
bony structure will be clearly dis- 
tinguishable. — Contributed by G. J. 
Tress, Emsworth, Pa. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



f,T 



Mechanics for Young America 



Novelty Chain Made from a Match 



The accompanying engraving shows 
what is possible to do with a penknife. 
A small chain composed of several 




Lay a Match on the Picture 

links was cut from the woo 
forms the match.- Made by 
Courath, Marietta, < lliio. 



A. C. 



An Interesting Electrical 
Experiment 

Any one possessing a battery having 
an e. m. f. of from 1 to 20 volts can 
perform the following experiment, 
which is particularly interesting on a< - 
count of the variation of results with 
apparently the same conditions. 

[mmerse two pieces of brass in a 
strong solution of common sail and 
water. ( lonnect one piece to the posi- 
tive wire and the other to the negative, 
taking care thai the brass pieces do 
not touch each other. 

After the current bus passed one 
or two minutes, the solution will be- 
co] lored, and i f t he process is con- 
tinued a colored pigment will be pre- 
cipitated. The color of the precipitant 




varies considerably and may be cither 
yellow, blue. orange, green or 
brow ii, and possibly others, depending 
on the strength of the current, the 
strength of the solul ion, and the com- 
position of the brass.— Contributed bv 
!■:. W. I).. Chicago. 



Restoring Broken Negatives 

W boever has the misfortune to 
break a valuable negative need not de- 
spair, for the damage can be i 
most effectively. In ease the negative 
he broken into many pieces, take a 




How Wires are Connected 



Before and Alter Mending 

(lean glass the same size as the broken 
negal ive, and put upon this the pieces, 
joining them accurately, says Camera 
( 'raft. Put another clean glass on top 
of this and bind the three together 

with passe-partout binding or gumi 1 

strips of ordinary paper, as one would 
a lantern slide, and cover the glass 
edges. Next make a transparency of 
this (in the camera, of course), and if 
done right the positive will only show 
the cracks as dark and light lines. The 



68 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



dark Lines are removed with the etch- 
ing knife and the light ones with the 
retouching pencil. From this trans- 
parency another negative can be made, 
or as many negatives as necessary, by 
either contact or in the camera, and 
if the work on the glass positive was 
done carefully, no trace of the break 
should be seen on the finished nega- 
tive. If the negative is broken in two 
or three larger puce- only, a contact 
positive may be made in the printing 
frame without binding, by using a 
clean glass in the latter, upon which 
the pieces are put together, face up, 
and a dry plate exposed in contact 
with them in the dark room. The 
accompanying engravings show a print 
before and after repairing a broken 
negative in this manner. 



Coin and Tumbler Trick 



The accompanying sketch show: 
how a good trick may he easily per 
formed ly any one. Lay a piece o 




This is a Good Trick 

heavy paper that i- free from creases 
mi a board or table. Secure i hree t um- 
blers that are alike ami stick a piece 
of I he same heavy paper over the open- 
ings in two id* them, neatly trimming 
it all around the edges so as to leave 
nothing of the paper for any one to 
see. Make three covers of paper as 
shown in fig. 1 to put over the tum- 
blers. Place three coins on the sheet 
of paper, then the tumblers with cov- 
er.- on top of the coins, the unprepared 
tumbler beina in the middle. Now lift 



the covers off the end tumblers, and 
you will see that the paper on the open- 
ings covers the coins. Replace the cov- 
ers, lift the middle one, and a coin will 
be seen under the tumbler, as the open- 
ing of this tumbler is not covered. 
Drop the cover back again and lift the 
other tumblers and covers bodily, so 
that the spectators can see the coins. 
remarking at the same time that you 
can make them vanish from one to the 
other. The openings of the tumblers 
must never be exposed so that any 
one can see them, and a safe way to 
do this is to keep them level with the 
table. 

Another Way to Renew Dry 
Batteries 

There are many methods of renew- 
ing dry batteries, and I have used sev- 
eral of them, but I found the follow- 
ing the best : Remove the paper 
cover and with a '4-in. drill make 
about six holes around the side of the 
zinc, about T S in. from the bottom. 
Then drill another row of holes about 
half way up the side and put the bat- 
tery to soak in a solution of sal am- 
moniac for 48 hours. Then remove 
and plug the holes up with hard soap, 
and replace in the paper box, when it 
will give nearly as strong a current as 
when new. 



Simply Made Wire Puzzle 



The object of this simply made wire 
puzzle is to get the ring oil', which is 
not easy unless you know how. To do 
so it is necessary to move 
the triangle with ring 
to ime of the hinge 
joints and fold the puz- 
zle. Then slip the ring 
off the triangle over the 
hinge joint and it will 
slip all around and 
off at the oilier hinge. 




Diabolo is pronounced Dee-ab-lo. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A Mechanical Ventriloquist And How 
To Make It 

An apparatus rigged up as shown in 
the illustration will afford any amount 
of amusement to the boy who cares to 
try it. The materials required are a 
watch case telephone receiver, a trans- 
mitter, a large phonograph horn, about 
200 ft. of No. IS gauge wire and three 
or four batteries. 

Fasten the watch case receiver to the 



shaft is not in the center the engine 
will not run smoothly. 

Make the shaft to extend on each 
side of the two bearings, so that the 
commutator may be attached to one 
side and s, , the other side may be bent 
into the form of a crank. On the com- 
mutator side place a brush in such posi- 
tion that during every revolution the 
circuit will be alternately opened and 
closed. Arrange the commutator so 
that the circuit will be closed either 




A Simple A 



horn, being careful not to let it touch 
the diaphragm of the receiver. Run 
the line and attach the transmitter at 
its opposite end. When one talks into 
the transmitter a person '.'mi ft. distant 
from the receiver can plainly hear what 
is said. If the receiver and horn end 
is hidden in a clump of bushes near a 
road, people passing will be greatly 
puzzled at hearing a voice, seemingly 
out of uninhabited space. 



How to Build an Electric Engine 

This engine, if carefully made, pre- 
sents a neat appearance and is capable 
of running toy machinery on very low 
current strength — the one I made ran 
satisfactorily on 1 2 '< amperes. 

The coils may be those of an old 
electric bell, mounted on a light piece 
of angle-iron, at a height of not more 
than 1 in. from the baseboard. The 
fly-wheel standard, crank-rod and ar- 
mature may be made out of galvanized 
iron. No. 16 being most suitable. A 

small valve-wheel makes a very £ 1 

fly-wheel, but care must be taken in 
mounting it upon the shaft, for if the 



when the handle is at the top or when 
it is at the bottom, which makes no 
difference, except for the direction in 
w Inch the engine will run. 

Let us suppose that the crank is 
pointed downward. The circuit is now- 
closed by the commutator and the ar- 
mature is attracted by the electro-mag- 
net, but. as ii approaches the magnet, 
the circuit is broken and the fly-wheel 
pulls it back again, only to he attracted 
when the circuit is again closed 

l'.\ adjusting the commutator, sev- 
eral different speeds may be obtained, 
as well as reversing the engine accom- 




Home-Made Electric Engine 

plished, which is done by placing the 
crank so that it points upward, then 
twisting the commutator around so 
that the circuit is closed. — Contributed 
by Warren B. Weyrick. Akron, ( ). 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

Devices of Winter Sports — How to Make and Use Them 




"Tip-Up Pole" 



In the north the red-cheeked boy 

digs a hole in the iee and while he 
amuses and invigorates himself at skat- 
ing, the fish underneath the icy sheet 
fasten themselves to 
the hi hiI< he has let 
down through a hole. 
The boy used to sit 
over the hole in the 
ice and wait for the 
fish to bite, but that 
became ti i. > slow and 
detracted too much 
from his pleasure at 
skating. So his in- 
ventive genius set it- 
self to work and the "tip up" and "sig- 
nal" shown in the illustration was the 
result. When the fish is not biting the 
flag lies flat on the ice, but as soon as 
a fish has swallowed the hook the flag- 
pole stands straighl up wafting its 
bright colored flag to the breezes and 
all the boys on the skating pond read 
the word "fish." The fish i- drawn up, 
the hook rebated and the youthful fish- 
erman resumes Ids pleasures on the 
ice. Often a score or more of these 
"tip tips" are planted about the edges 
of the ice pond, each boy bringing his 
fishing tackle with his skates and thus 
finding a double source of amusement. 
Maybe one boy will thus have a half 
do/en different lines in the water at 
once, it being easy to watch them all 
ti igel her. 

The d e v i e e by 
which the fish is 
made to give its own 
signal when caught 
is exceedingly simple 
and any boy can 
make it. Procure a 
light rod about 2 ft. 
in length and to i me 
end fasten a small 
flag, made of any 
bright colored cloth. 
Bind the rod at right angles to another 
stick which is placed across the hole, 
so that a short piece of the flag-rod pro- 
iver the cross stick. Ti i tins sh< >rt 
end fasten the fishing line. Be sure and 




"Tip-Up" Fish Caught 



use strong string in binding the two 
rods together, and also take care that 
the cross stick is long enough to permit 
several inches of each end to rest on 
the ice. After fastening the line to the 
short end of the rod, bait the hook with 
a live minnow or other suitable bait 
and let it down through the hole. When 
the fish is hooked the flag will instant- 
ly raise and wave about strenuously 
until the fish is taken from the water. 

"Jumping Jack" Fisherman 

If the small boy has a "jumping- 
jack" left over from Christmas he may 
make this do his 
fishing f o r h i m 
and serve as well 
as the "tip up," or 
he can easily make 
the jumping-jack 
himself independ- 
ent of Santa Claus. 
The string which 
is pulled to make 
the p lints move is 
tied securely to 

Jumping-Jack Fisherman jj le nsllill" line; 

the hook is 1 '.ailed and lowered into the 
water through a hole in the ice. The 
"jumping-jack" waxes his legs and 
arms frantically to notify the boys 
when the fish is biting. The "jump- 
in. j i: 1- i liso used lor fishing m 
summer time by placing it on a float 
which is cast into the water. 

Winter Velocipede 

Bicycles may be converted into novel 
sleighs by simply overhauling. The 
usual bicycle frame and pedals are used, 
and gearing transmits to contact 
wheels, in which are sharp spikes for 
catching in the snow' or ice. Instead of 
moving on wheels the machine is car- 
ried on runners. 

The Running Sleigh 

Another winter sport, very popular 
in Sweden, and that has already reached 




POPULAR MECHANICS 



VI 



America, is the "running sleigh," shown 
in the illustration. A light 
sleigh is equipped with long 
double runners and is pro- 
pelled by foot power. The 
person using the sleigh 
stands with one foot upon a 
rest attached to one of the 
braces connecting the run- 
ners and propels the sleigh 
by pushing backward with 
the other foot. To steady 
the body an upright support 
is attached to the runnel's. 
The contrivance can be used 
upon hard frozen ground, 
thin ice and snow-covered 
surfaces, and under favor- 
able conditions moves with 
remarkable speed. The "running 
sleigh" has a decided advantage over 
skis, because the two foot supports are 
braced so that they cannot come apart. 
Any boy can make the sleigh with a 
little pains. 



each end firmly to the hoop's sides. For 





CONSTRUCT. O* 

for Skater's Sails 



The Winged Skater 

With the actual speed of the wind a 
skater may be hurled along the ice if he 

is aided by sails. He has been known 
to travel at the rate of 10 miles an hour, 
and the sport while affording the limit 
of excitement, is not attended with dan- 
ger. The sails are easily made, as the 
illustrations and description will show. 
Secure two large thin hoops about 4 
ft. in diameter. They may he obtained 
from an old hogshead or by bending 
thin strips. For each hoop selecl a 
piece of strong cane about :: i in. in di- 
ameter to constitute the fore and main 
masts or cross-yard--. Extend these 
across the center of the hoop and fasten 



Running Sleigh 

the middle of each cross-spar make a 

cleat and lash it on firmly. 

The main spar should also he made 

of two pieces of strong cane, each about 

9V2 ft- long. Bind them together at 
each end so thai the large 
end of one is fastened to 
the small end of the 1 ither. 
Xexi comes the attach- 
ing of the sails in the sep- 
arate masts. Tin- sails 
should be made of strong 
sheeting or thin canvas. 
Tack the cloth to the hoop 
on tin- inner side after the 
cloth has been wrapped 
around the hoop two or 
three limes. 



X, 


IW 


the 


main 


spar 


si 


ould be 


at- 


ached 


>y 


;pnngn 


g it 


IP 


irt and slip- 


>ing 


th 


e c 


rats m| 


the 


Cl 


1 iss-spar 


be- 




Bicycle Sleigh 



tween the two pieces. Bind the inner 
sides of the hoops tightly together by 
means of a very strong double cord, as 
shown in the figure. Then your sail 



72 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



is ready for the ice pond. See that your 
skates are securely fastened, raise your 




sail and you will skim along the ice as 
lightly as a bird on the wing. With a 
little practice you will learn to tack and 
guide yourself as desired. 




Plan of I 



nd Rudde 



If the hoops cannot be easily obtained 

the sails may be made equally effective 
by using the main spar and fore and 



main masts as herein described, mak- 
ing the sails square shaped instead of 
round and leaving off the 
hoops. In this case the sails 
should be securely bound 
with strung tape. Attach a 
corner to each end of the 
cross-spar, and a corner to 
the outer end of the main 
spar. The remaining corner 
of each then appears oppo- 
site to each other, and should 
be fastened together by 
strong cord in the same man- 
ner as the hoops. In this case the sails 
may be left off until after the frame is 
entirely put together and then fastened 
on to the spars by buttons. 

A more simple sail may 
be made according to the 
plans illustrated in the 
lower drawing. It is made 
by binding together in the 
center the halves of two 
strong hogshead hoops, or 
two bent ] Miles are better. 
If possible the sail should 
be about 8 ft. long and 4 ft. 
wide. Fasten on the sail at 
the four corners. The rig 
will convey two persons 
and is more easily con- 
structed than any other. 

Ice Boating 

T.ut the sport that is 

greatest of all, the one that 
used to be part of the life 
of every northern boy, and 
which is being revived in 
popularity after years of 
stagnation, is ice boating. 
With the aid of old skates, 
pieces of board and an old 
sheet or a small bit of can- 
was, any boy possessed of 
ordinary mechanical genius 
may make an ice boat. The 
frame of the boat should be 
made something in the 
form of a kite. The center- 
board should be 4 or 5 ft. long, 6 in. 
wide and 2 in. thick. The cross board 
may be of a piece of 1 by 6-in. plank 3 ft. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



13 



long-. Fasten these with braces of 
small stout strip, as shown in the draw- 
ing, and screw the cross-piece securely 
to the center-board. Bore a hole in the 
center of the intersection for the mast 
pole. The seat may be made of a piece 
of strong cloth or leather. Three 
skates are fastened on to either side 
of the cross-board and one to the rear 
end of the center-board, the latter of 
which is to operate as a rudder. In 
attaching the skates first make a couple 
of runner blocks, each <l in. long and 
?> in. wide. Bore holes in them fur the 
straps of the 
skates to 
pass through 
and f a s t e n 
them secure- 
ly. Xail the 
r u n 11 e r 
blocks firmly 
to the cross- 
In i;ird about 

Boy's Ice Boat -, i • r 

1 ' •> in. from 
each end. 

In making the rudder hew down a 
piece of scantling 1 ft. long until it 
assumes the shape of a club with 
a tlat base. Xail a strip of wood firmly 
to this base, and to the strip fasten the 
skate. Run the top of the club through 
a hole bored in the stern of the center- 
board. Then make the helm by boring 
a hole in one end i if a strip i if s< 'ft 1 i iard 
about 1 ft. long, and through this hole 
pass the club or rubber-pole and fasten 
it so it may be shifted when desired. 
Make the sail out of .m old sheet, if it 
be strong enough, piece of canvas, or 
am- such substance and attach it to the 
mast and sprit as shown in the illus- 
tration, and guide it b\ a stout string- 
attached to the lower outer corner. As 





an ice boat will travel faster than the 
wind, some care and considerable skill 
is necessary. Unless you are accus- 
tomed to managing a sail boat, do not 



select a place in which to learn where 
there are air holes or open water. To 
stop tlie boat throw the head around 
into the wind, same as you would with 
boat. If the wind is strong the 




occupants of the boat should lie tlat on 
their stomach. 

Coasters and Chair Sleighs 

Make your own sled, boys! There is 
no use in buying them, because your 
hand-made sled is probabh better than 
any purchased one and then you can 

take s, , much more 

pride in it when you 

know it is of your 

1 1 w n ci instruction. 

There are so many 

different designs of 

sleds that can be 

made by hand that 

the matter can be left almost entirely 

to your own ingenuity. You can make 

one like the bought sleds and face the 

runners with pieces of an iron hoop 

which will answer every purpose. A 

3fl 




Chair Sleigh 



f 



1:L 



3 



good sled for coasting consists simply 
of two barrel sta-\ es and three piei es oi 
board as shown in the picture. Fig. 1. 
No bought sled will equal it for coast- 
ing and it is also just the thing for car- 
rying loads of snow for building snow- 
houses. The method of its construc- 
tion is so simple that no other descrip- 
tion is needed than the picture. You 




Fig. 4— Folding . 
Sleigh Open 



74 

can make a chair-sleigh out of this by 
fitting a chair on the cross board in- 
stead of the long top board or it will 
be still stronger if the top board is 
allowed to remain, and then you will 
have a device thai can readily again be 
transform e d 
into a coast- 
ing sled. In 
making t h e 
chair - sleigh 
it is neces- 
sary, in or- 
der to h old 
the chair in 
place, to nail 
four L -shaped Mi M-ks on the cross 
boards, one for each leg of the chair. 
Skating along over the ice and pushing 
the chair in front of him the proud pos- 
sessor of a chair-sleigh may take his 
mother, grown siller or lady friend 
with him on his outings, and permit 
her to ride in the chair. 

Folding Chair Sleigh 

A folding chair sleigh is even more 
enjoyable and convenient than the de- 
vice just described. If the ice pond is 
far from home this may be placed un- 
der your arm and carried where you 
like." 

The illustrations. Figs. 2 and 3, show- 
all the parts as they should look before 



POPULAR MECHANICS 




Slei-h Closed 



bein^ joined together. The seat may 
be made of a piece of canvas or carpet. 
The hinges are of leather. Figure 4 
shows the folding chair sleigh after it 
has been put together. Skates are em- 
ployed for the runners. The skates 
may be strapped on or taken off when- 
ever desired. When the chair is lifted 
the supports slip from the notches on 
the side bars and fall on the runner 
bars. The chair is then folded up so 
that it can be carried by a small boy. 
With regular metal hinges and light 
timbers a very handsome chair can be 
constructed that will also afford an 
ornamental lawn chair for summer. 



The Toboggan Sled 

When the snow is very deep a to- 
boggan sled is the thing for real sport. 
I lie runners of the ordinary sled break 
through the crust of the deep snow, 
blocking the progress, and spoiling the 
fun. The toboggan sled, with its broad, 
smooth bottom, glides along over the 
soft surface with perfect ease. 

To make the toboggan sled, secure 
two boards each in ft. long and 1 ft. 
wide and so thin that they can be easily 
bent. Place the boards beside each 
other and join them together with cross 
sticks. Screw the boards to the cross 
stick from the bottom and be sure that 
the heads of the screws are buried deep 
enough in the wood to not protrude, so 




Fig. 6 — The Toboggan 

that the bottom will present an abso- 
lutely smooth surface to the snow. 
Fasten two side bars to the top of the 
cross sticks and screw them firmly. In 
some instances the timbers are fastened 
together by strings, a groove being cut 
in the bottom of the boards so as to 
keep the strings from protruding and 
being ground to pieces. After the side 
bars are securely fastened, bend the 
ends , if the b> iards i >ver and tie them to 
the ends of the front cross bar to hold 
them in position. See Fig. 6. The 
strings for keeping the boards bent 
must be very strong. Pieces of stout 
wire, or a slender steel rod, are even 
hetter. The toboggan slide is the fa- 
vored device of sport among the boys 
in Canada, where nearly every boy 
knows how to make them. 

The Norwegian Ski. 

You have often read of the ski, the 
snowshoe used by the Norwegians and 
other people living in the far north. 
With them the men and women glide 
down the snow-covered mountain 
sides, leap across ditches, run races and 
have all kinds of sport. They are just 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



as amusing to the American boy who 
has ever learned to manipulate them, 
and it is wonderful how much skill can 
be attained in their use. Any buy with 
a little mechanical ingenuity can make 
a pair of skis (pronounced skees). They 
can be made from two barrel staves. 
Select staves of straight grained wood. 
Sharpen the ends of each and score 
each end by cutting grooves in the 
wood, as shown in the cut, Fig. '. . \ 
pocket knife or small gouge will suffice 
for this work. Then smear the cud of 
the staves with oil and hold them close 
to a hot fire until they can be bent so 
as to tip the toes upward, as shown in 
the picture, Fig. 7. Then with a cord 
bind the staves as they arc bent and 
permit them to remain thus tied until 
they retain the curved form of their 
own accord. Now screw ori top of each 
ski a little block", just broad and high 
enough to fit in front of the heels of 
your shoe. Fasten a strap in front of 



<c mK Zn 



Home-Made Skis 

each block through which to slip your 
toes, and the skis are made. The inside 
of the shoe heel should press firmly 
against the block and the toe be held 
tightly under the strap. This will keep 
the skis ,111 your feet. Now procure a 
stick with which to steer and hunt a 
snow bank. At first you will afford 
more amusement to onlookers than to 
yourself, for the skis have a way of try- 
ing to run in oODOsite directions, cross- 
wise and various ways, but with prac- 
tice you will soi in become expert in 
their manipulation. 



Home-Made Settee 

Many people have old wooden beds 
stored away which can easily be made 
into handy settees like the one shown 
in the accompanying photograph. A 
few nails and one-half dozen 3-in. 
screws are all the materials necessary 



besides the old bed. The tools needed 
are a saw, hammer and a screwdriver. 
The head-board, if ton hieh, can lie cut 




olt and some of the ornaments replaced 
The footboard must be cut in two to 
make the ends or arms of the settee. 
'I be side rails and a few of the slats are 
used m making the seat. — Contributed 
by VYm. F. Ili'ld. Lake Forest, 111. 



Enameling a Bicycle Frame 

Make an enamel by mixing '.' 07. 
burnt umber with 1 qt. boiled oil, heat- 
ing, and then adding 1 oz. asphaltum. 
Keep the mass hot until thoroughly 
mixed, says the Master Painter. Thin 
with turpentine while still hut. 

I se a camel's hairbrush for applying 
the enamel and allow it to set: then 
place the article in an oven, bake for 
six nr eight hours at a temperature of 
".'•"in deg. V. When cool rub down with 
steel wool. Apply a finishing coat and 
.allow it to bake eight hours at 350 deg. 
F. Rub down with a soft rag, varnish 
and bake again at 800 deg. F. Heat 
and cool the frame gradually each time. 
Black enamel is easiest 1,, apply and 
bakes hardest, but requires a tempera- 
ture of 300 deg. Colors can be baked 
at from 200 to 250 deer. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Sewing Bag 

A very practical and novel sewing 
bag for odds and ends necessary for 
mending, etc., can be made of a fold- 
ing camp stuol. If an old stool is not 





Camp-Stool Work Bag 



at hand, a new one can be purchased 
for 25 cents. Remove the top or seat, 
which is usually made of a piece of 
carpet, then make a bag as shown in 
Fig. 1 and stitch a heavy cord around 
the top to make it strong. Make pock- 
ets on the inside as shown and nail the 
bag to the two crosspieces on which 
the ends of the carpet were tacked. 
Large, brass furniture nails should lie 
used. Attach a small hook and eye 
on each end and fasten two leather 
handles to the crosspieces. 

Such a bag requires little room when 
folded and can be stored in a closet 
when not in use.- Contributed by Jo- 
seph Ledwinka, Philadelphia, Pa. 



Home-Made Roller Skates 

The rubber-tired wheels of an old 
carpet sweeper can be used to advan- 
tage in making a pair of roller skates. 
In Fig. 1 is shown how an iron washer 
or two may be fastened to the wood 
with a piece of sheet metal to support 




F,G 1 F,o 2 

Rubber Tired Roller Skate 

the short axles of the wheels. The 
wheels are oiled through the holes A 
and P., Fig. 2. These holes should be 



smaller than the axles. The two side 
pieces are fastened together with a 
board nailed on the top edges, as 
shown. This board also furnishes the 
flat top for the shoe sole. Two straps 
are attached for fastening the skate to 
the shoe. — Contributed by Thos. De 
Poof, Grand Rapids, Mich. 



Adjuster for Flexible Electric Wires 

The accompanying illustration shows 
an adjuster for changing the drop of an 
electric light. The main feature of this 
adjuster is that it can be removed from 
the cord at any time. The adjuster 
is made from a piece of wood, % in. 
thick, 2 in. wide and 3 in. long. A y±- 
iu. hole is bored in the center near each 
end of the wood and a slot cut from 







the holes to the outside edge, as shown 
in big. 1. It is attached to the flexible 
cord as shown in Fig. 2. — Contributed 
by J. J. Voelcker, Decatur, 111. 



Making Photographs on Watch 
Dials 

Beat to a foam the white of an egg, 
with the addition of a little ammonia. 
Add 'J oz. and 3 dr. of water and beat 
again. After the egg has settled, filter 
and let the liquid run over the dial. 
which has been previously cleaned with 
ammonia. When the surplus has run 
off, coat with the mixture and allow to 
dry. 

A sensitive collodion is now produced 
as follows : Dissolve 9 gr. of chloride 
of zinc in 5 dr. of alcohol ; add 7% gr. 
of collodion cotton and 6 1 /) dr. of ether. 
Shake the wdiole forcibly. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Dissolve 2.1 gr. of nitrate of silver in 
hot water, add 1% dr. of alcohol and 
keep the whole solution by heating. 
The silver solution is now added in 
small quantities at a time to the col- 
lodion, which must be well settled. 
This, of course, is done in the dark 
room. After 24 hours the emulsion is 
filtered by passing it through cut tun 
moistened with alcohol. This durable 
collodion emulsion is now flowed 
thinly upon the prepared watch dial, 
which, after the collodion has coagu- 
lated, is moved up and down in distilled 



water until the fattv stripes disappear. 
The water is then changed i nice, and 
after a short immersion, the dial is left 
to dry on a piece of blotting paper. It 
is now ready for exposure. Expose 
under magnesium light and develop 
with a citrate oxalic developer, or in 
the following hydroquinone developer: 

Hydroquinone 1 dr. 

Bromide of potassium. 6 dr. 

Sulphite of soda \]/ 2 oz. 

Cnrlionate of soda ■_'•_' :; dr. 

Water H oz. 

After fixing and drying, coat with a 
transparent positive varnish. 



Home-Made Overhead Trolley Coaster 



The accompanying sketch shows a 
playground trolley line which furnished 
a great deal of amusement to many 
children at a minimum cost. The wire, 
which is 3/16 in. in diameter, was 
stretched between a tree and a barn 
across a vacant quarter block. The 
strength of the wire was first tested 
by a heavy man. When not in use the 
wire is unhooked from the tree and 



1 and 2, of strips of wood bolted with 
stove bolts on two grooved pulleys. 
The middle wide board was made of 
hardwood. The wheels were taken 
from light pulley blocks and stove bolts 
were purchased from a local hardware 
store to accurately fit the hubs. As it 
was necessary to keep the bearings 
greased, we used vaseline. This 
coaster made great sport for the young- 




hauled into the barn and coiled loosely 
in the hay loft. The wire was made 
taut for use by a rope which was fas- 
tened to the beams in the barn. The 
trolley was made, as shown in Figs. 



sters and at no time were they in dan- 
ger of a serious fall as the line was 
hung low and the slant of the wire was 
moderate.— Contributed by H. J. Hol- 
den, Palm Springs, Calif. 



18 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make an Electric Furnace Regulator 

We have a furnace in our house and 
part of mv work each evening last 



winter was to go down in the basement 
al 9 o'clock, fill the furnace with coal 
for the night and stay there until it 
was burning in good shape, then to 
close tlie draft door. As this perform- 
ance requires from twenty to thirty 



of iron is hinged to I. T<> the other side 
of H another curd (J is fastened, which 
passes over the pulley N and termin- 
ates in any convenient place in the 
rooms above. This piece of iron H is 
held in place by the release A. Now 
C is a coil of wire from a door bell. R 
is an armature which works A on pivot 




minutes 1 concluded to make a self- 
acting device which would close the 
draft and leave the furnace safe, with- 
out any further attention mi my part, 
after putting in the coal ami opening 
it up to burn. As some other boys 
may like to build the same regulator I 
will tell just how to make one and how 
it operates. 

Referring to Fig. 1. you will see a 
straighl cord is attached to the draft 
dour of the furnace. I), and is run over 
the pulley I' ami finally is attached 
to a small piece of iron, H. This piece 



J. M is a U-tube, filled with mercury, 
one end being connected to a half liter 
glass flask F by the tube T, and the 
other end terminates in an overflow? 
tube I >. B is a battery of three bi- 
chromate cells which are connected up 
with the C and the platinum points 1 — 
'.', which are fused into the U-tube. 

( )n fixing the furnace the iron piece 
II takes position X, this being the nor- 
mal position when draft door 1> is 
closed. On arriving upstairs I pull 
the cord G, which causes the piece H 
to become fixed in the vertical position 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



79 



by means of A. This opens the draft 
door at the same time. Now when the 
furnace heats up sufficiently it causes 
the air to expand in F, which causes 
the mercury in M to rise a little ah no 
the point 2. This immediately causes 
a current to flow through C which in 
turn draws R towards it, raises A and 
causes II to drop to position X. This 
shuts the furnace door. Now the fur- 
nace, of course, c ioIs down, thus caus- 
ing the air in F 1 > contract and const 
quently opening the circuit through ('. 
If at any time the furnace should over 
heat, the raising of A, "ii which is 
grounded a wire from a signal hell up- 
stairs, will make a circuit through the 
bell by means of the point /. and wire 
leading therefrom. Tin- lull also 
serves to tell me whether II lias 
dropped or not. This same device of 
regulating the draft I) can be used I i 
regulate the damper, found on the coal 
doors of most furnaces, by simply fus- 
ing a platinum p linl mi the other side 
of AI and changing the o ird v\ Inch is at- 
tached to D. A twi i-ci 'iit.'u i s\\ itch 
could also he inserted to throw con- 
nections from •.' to ::. It would work 
in this manner: The damper door, of 
course, which keeps a low lire, would 
he up in a p< >sit i hi similar to 1 > ; on 
the furnace cooling too much, connec- 
tion, due to contracting of air in !■', 
would be made through '■> and C, caus- 
ing H to drop, thus closing door. This 
simple device worked very well all last 
winter and gave me no trouble what- 
ever. 

If you cannot readily procure a U- 
tube, you can make one, as 1 did, and 
the work is interesting. 

The U-tube is constructed in the fol- 
lowing manner. A glass tube is closed 
at one end. This is done by holding 
the tube in one corner of a gas flame, 
somewhat near the dark area (A, Fig. 
2), and constantly turning the tube 
when it will be found that the glass has 
melted together. Now, after it is cool, 
about 3 or 4 in. from the sealed end. 
the tube is held steadily so that the 
flame will heat one small portion (B, 
Fig, 2). After this small portion is 



heated blow into the tube, not very 
hard, but just enough to cause tube to 
bulge out. Allow to cool. Then re- 
heat the small bulged portion, blew 
quite hard, so that the glass will be 
blown out at this point, forming a small 
hole. Now insert about l/, in. ,,|' plat- 
inum wire and reheat, holding platinum 




Making the U-Tube 

wire by means of a small pliers so that 
it will be partly in the lube and partly 
without. The platinum will stick to 
the glass, and if glass is sufficiently 
heated one will be able to pull it, by 
mean-, of pliers, from i .ne side of the 
hole to the other, thus sealing the wire 
into the tube. Another wile i^ sealed 
in the same way about 1 in. from the 
first. Now. to bend the tube, one must 
hold it, with both hands, in the flame 
and turn constantly until soft. Quickly 
withdraw from flame and bend, just as 
you would a piece <>f copper wire. 
Allow to cool slowly. 

The several tubes are connected with 
a short piece of rubber tubing. 

The total cost of materials for con- 
structing the apparatus complete will 
not amount to mi re than one dollar.^ 
Contributed b) M. < 1. Kopf, Lewis In- 
stitute, Chicago. 

Weatherproofing for Tents 

Dissolve I oz. sulphate of zinc in lit 
gal. water; add l / 2 lb. sal-soda ; stir well 
until dissolved, and add ' [> oz. tartaric 
acid. Put the tent cover in this solu- 
tion and let lie 2 I Ins. Take out (do 
not wring it) and hang up to dry. — 
Grinnell's I land Book on Painting-. 



Sheet metal placed between two 
boards in the jaws of a vise and 
clamped tightly, can be sawed 
with a hacksaw. 



80 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Toy Battery Motor Lift 
A 10-lb. Weight 

The materials necessary are a small 
battery motor, three or four cells of 
batteries, an old clockwork, and a board 



motor will lift the weight up to the 
level of the clockwork without diffi- 
cult)-. This experiment demonstrates 
the power of gearing. — Contributed by 
W. J. Slattery, Emsworth, Pa. 



Axle oo wbicb 
H St, ring wind&X 




Pulley ^^^ 



String Belt/ 

T o p View 



6 in. wide and 12 in. long. Remove the 
mainspring from the clockwork and 
make a small pulley and fasten it on 
the axle of the smallest wheel in the 
mechanism. 

Fasten the clockwork on one end of 
the board in such position that the large 
wheel will project over the edge. Place 
the motor on the board about 6 in. from 
the clockwork and connect the pulley 
of the motor with the pulley in the 
clockwork by a string belt. Now 
fasten a niece of strong cord or chalk- 
line to the axle of the large wheel of 



Sm^ll pulley a^ttevcbed "bo & meJIest 
wheel in clockworks 

How to Remove Glass Stoppers from 
Bottles 

Glass stoppers which are stuck in 
bottles may be quickly removed by 
holding the bottle at a slant of about 
l"> deg. and applying a burning match 
to the neck of the bottle around where 
the stopper seems the tightest and 
turning the bottle while the match is 
burning so the glass will be heated 
evenly all around. This will cause the 
neck of the bottle to expand before the 
stopper does and when the flame has 




B a.-t"b e. ry 



-bide View 



the clockwork and put a weight of well burned out, drop the match and 
about 10 or 12 lb. on the end of the quickly give the stopper a little twist 
string. and it will come out readily. — Contrib- 
uting three or four batteries, the uted by Jno. E. Cox, Halstead, Kan. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
Kites of Many Kinds and How to Make Them 




Boy Kite 



One of the prettiest of all is the but- 
terfly kite. To make this get two thin 
kite sticks of equal length. I '.end each 
in an arc, tying one end of a strong 
string to one end of each stick and 
the other end of the 
string to a point 
about .') in. from the 
other end of the 
stick. This leaves one 
end of each stick 
free, hooking over 
the hemisphere de- 
scribed by the thread 
and the --tick. Now 
tie another thread to 
each of these free ends and tie the other 
end of the thread to a point near the 
other end of the stick, corresponding 
with the distance from the end at which 
the first strings were tied on the oppo- 
site side. This done, you should have 
two arched frames, each an exact c iun- 
terpart of the other in size, curvature 
and weight. Now fasten the two 
frames together so that the arcs will 
overlap each other as shown in the 
sketch. Bind the intersecting points 
securely with thread. To make the 
butterfly's head, secure two heavy 
broom straws or two short wires, and 
at tach them to the top 
p a r t of the w i n g 
frames near where the 
sticks intersect, so 
that the straws or 
w ires will en iss. These 
li inn 1 lie antennae, . ir 
the "smellers." Then 
select the color i if pa- 
per yi iu want, yellow, 
bn i\\ n, blue, w bite or 
any i it her ci 'lor ; lax- 
it on a fiat surface and 
place the frame i in t< ip 
of it. holding the 
frame down securely with a weight. 
Then with a pair of scissors cut the pa- 
per around the frame, leaving aboul a 
1 --in. margin for pasting. ( 'ill slit- in 
the paper about V in. apart around the 
curves and at all angles to keep the 
paper from wrinkling when it is pasted 




Distribute the paste with a small brush 
and make the overlaps a little more 
than 14 in. wide and press them to- 




Buttcrfly Kite . 

gether with a soft cloth. When the 
kite is dry decorate it with paint or 
strips ot colored paper in any de- 
sign you may fancy. The best ef- 
fects are produced by pasting pi. 
colored paper on top of the other pa- 
per. Black paper decorations show up 
to line ad\ autage w hen the kite is in 
llight. Attach the "belly-band" to the 
curved sticks 
by pi 

a hole in the 
paper in the 
same m a li- 
ner as it j„ 
attached to 
the common 
hexagonal or 
coffin-shaped 
kite. With a 
tail, your 
kite is ready 

to fly. 

Ano t h e r 
interes ting 
design is the 
boy kite. 
\\ ith light colored coat and vest and 
fray striped trousers, the kite stand- 
ing high in the air always attracts at- 




Girl Kite 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



tention and affords splendid sport for 
the American youth in spring-time. 

In making a boy kite it should be 
remembered that the larger the boy is 
the better he will fly. To construct the 
frame, two straight sticks, say .'i 1 - ft. 
long, should serve for the legs and 




Frame for Boy Kite 

bod\ : another straight stick forms the 
spine and should be about 2 it. 1 in. 
long. For the arms, get a fourth 
straight stick about ■'! ft. 3 in. long. 
Make the frame for the bead by bend- 
ing a light tough stick in a circle about 
7 in. in diameter. Bind it tightly with 
a strong thread and through its center 
run the spine. Then tack on the arm 
stick 3 in. under the circle so that the 
spinal column crosses the arm stick ex- 
actly in the center. Wrap tightly with 
strong thread and tack on the two 
Sticks that are to serve for the legs and 
body. The leg stick- should be fast- 
ened to the arm stick about 6 in. on 
either side of the spinal column, and 
crossed so that the other end- are 3 fl 
apart. Tack them and the arm stick 
together at the point where they inter- 
sect. Small hoops and cross stick oi 
the same material as the head frame 
should be fastened to both extremities 
of the arm stick and the lower ends of 
the leg stick for the bands and feet. 
See that both hand frames are exactly 
alike and exercise equal caution regard- 
ing the foot frames; also see that the 
arm stick i- at exact right angles with 
the spine stick and that the kite joints 
are all firmly tied and the kite evenly 



balanced ; otherwise it may be lopsided. 
Fasten on the strings of the frame, be- 
ginning at the neck at equal distances 
from the spine, as indicated by the 
dotted lines in the diagram. Extend a 
string slantingly from the armstick to 
the head on both sides of the spinal 
column, and run all the other strings 
as shown in the cut, being careful that 
both sides of the frame correspond in 
measurements. 

To cover the kite, select different 
colors of paper to suit your taste, and 
after pasting them together, lay the 
paper <^n the floor and placing the 
frame on it, cut out the pattern. Leave 
an edge of ' - in. all around and make 
a slit iu this edge every (> in. and at 
each angle ; make the slits 2 in. apart 
around the head. After the kite is 
pasted and dry, paint the buttons, hair, 
eyes, bands, feet, etc.. as you desire. 
Arrange the "belly band" and tail band 
and attach the kite string in the same 
manner as in the ordinary coffin-shaped 
kite. 

The "lady kite" is made on the same 
principle as the boy kite. The frame 
may lie made exactly as the boy kite 
and then "dressed" with tissue paper 
to represent a girl, or it may be made 
on the special frame, page 81. Remem- 
ber the dotted lines represent the 
strings or thread, and the other line- 
indicate the kite sticks. Be careful 
with your measurements so that each 
side of the kite corresponds exactly and 
is well balanced. Also see that every 
point where the .-ticks intersect is 
firmly tacked and bound. 

To cover the kite, first paste together 
pieces of tissue paper of different color 
to suit your taste. The paste should 
be made of flour and water and boiled. 
Make the seams or overlaps not quite 
:: s in- wide. 1 -ay the paper on the floor, 
using weights to hold il down, and place 
the frame of the kite upon it. Then 
cut out the paper around the frame, 
leaving an edge of 1 .. in. Don't forget 
to make a slit in the edge every 6 or 7 
in. and at each angle. Around the head 
the slits are cut "2 in. apart, as in the 
case of the boy kite. After the kite is 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



83 



dry, paint the paper as your fancy dic- 
tates. 

To make the breast hand, punch hi lies 
through the paper, one upon each side 
of the leg sticks, just above the bottom, 
and one upon each side of the arm 
sticks at the sin udder. Run one end 
of the string through the hole at the 
bottom of the left limb and tie it to the 
leg stick; tie the other end at the right 
shoulder. Fasten one end of another 
string of the same length at the bot- 
tom of the right leg; pass the string up 
across the first band and tie the other 
end at the left shoulder. Attach the 
kite string to the breast band at the 
point where the two strings intersect. 
Tie the knot so that you can slide the 
kite string up or down until it is prop- 
erly adjusted. The tail band is made 
by tying a string to the leg sticks at 
the bottom of the breast band. I et the 
string hang slack below the skirt and 
attach the tail to the center. The same 
general rules apply in attaching the 
string and tail to the boy kite. 

You can make the lady look as if 
dancing and kicking in the clouds In- 
making the feet of stiff pasteboard and 
allowing them to hang loose from the 
line which forms the bottom of the 
skirt. The feet will move and sway 
with each motion of the kite. 



How to Make Rubber Stamps 

India rubber, especially prepared for 
stamp-making, sin mid be pn icurcd fn im 
a dealer or manufacturer, if g 1 re- 
sults are to be obtained. As an experi- 
ment, it is possible for an amateur to 
prepare the rubber, but, in such cases, 
it is always attended with uncertain 
results. The mixed uncured rubber 
comes in white sheets, strong, firm and 
about ' , s in. thick, and for its manipu- 
lation a press is indispensable, but can 
be home-made. 

For the base of the press use a 
i if in m. bavin- twi i hi des drilled in it at 
the middle of opposite sides, through 
which pass bolts, letting the thread 
ends extend upward and counter-sink- 
ing places li ir the bolt heads t, i keep the 
under side of the base level. Solder 



the bolts in place at the base. The up- 
per part of the press, or the platen, is 
also of iron, cut so it can be swung 




ott the bolts, lather than by removing 
the nuts and lifting it off. String a half 
dozen nuts, larger than those which 
screw on, on each bolt, so that when 
the upper nut on each is screwed to the 
extent of the thread the pressure will 
be communicated through the nuts 
wedged in between the platen and the 
upper nut. The bolt holes in the platen 
should be directly over those in the 
base. Distance pieces of an exact thick- 
ness should be provided for use on the 
base; these serve to keep the pressure 
even. 

In preparing the mould, if type is to 
be copied, use rather large type with 
wide spaces and set up with high quads 
and spaces, or the type faces may be 
tilled up by rubbing with either wax, 
or soap, lightly brushing off any that 
remains loose. The type so set should 
be locked into a frame. This may be 
made of two pieces of wood bolted to- 
gether at both ends, or of printer's fur- 
niture. Place it on a flat surface (mar- 
ble is good, but any perfectly smooth 
surface will do) and place distance 
' * in. higher than its upper sur- 
Fa e on either side of it. Apply olive 
oil to the type faces and wipe off any 
excess. To form the matrix or reverse 
of the model, take a piece of iron largei 
than the inscription to be copied, and 
spread upon it to a depth of 'j in. a 
putty made by mixing plaster of paris 



84 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



and water to the right consistency. By 
means of a table knife spread the plas- 
ter smoothly and then invert the plate 
upon the model and press down until 





Vulcanizing Press for Rubber Stamps 

the distance pieces are struck. Let it 
set 10 minutes and then remove. If 
care has been taken the matrix will be 
perfect. After it has thoroughly dried, 
preferably in an oven, saturate it with 
an alcoholic solution of shellac to 
strengthen it. 

Cut a piece of smooth rubber, large 
enough to cover the matrix, from the 
sheet, throw this into a box of talc, or 
powdered soapstone, so that it receives 
a coating on both sides; dust a little of 
the powder over the matrix, also. Place 
the press on a support over a gas burn- 
er, or a kerosene lamp, and apply the 
heat. Place the matrix on the base of 
the press, dust off the piece of india 
rubber and place in the press upon the 
matrix and screw down the platen. 
Heat the press to °S I deg. F. and keep 
screwing down the platen so that the 
rubber, now soft and putty-like, is 
forced into every recess of the matrix. 
A thermometer is not necessary : some 
rubber always protrudes and the stage 
of the process can be told from that. 
At first it is quite elastic, then as the 
heat increases it becomes soft, then the 
curing begins and it again becomes 
elastic, so that, if a point of a knife 
blade is pressed against it, it resumes 
its shape when the point is removed. 
When this take-; place it is then thor- 
oughly vulcanized and the sheet can be 
removed from the matrix. Ten min- 



utes, under favorable conditions, is suf- 
ficient time for moulding the rubber. 
By means of common glue, or bicycle 
tire cement, fasten the rubber stamp to 
a wi " 'den handle. 

It is possible to dispense with, the 
press in making stamps, where the 
work is not done in quantities, and use 
a hot flat-iron. The matrix is placed 
on a stove at low heat, the rubber laid 
on and the hot iron applied. But a 
few moments are required to mould it. 

An old letter press if it be inclosed 
in a tin oven makes a good press, or 
all the necessary materials and appa- 
ratus can be purchased from a dealer. 
Any type such as all printers use will 
answer. 

To Light a Gaslight Without Matches 

It is probably well known that if you 
rub your feet briskly over a carpet on a 
dry, cold day and then touch any metal- 
lic object with your finger it will emit 
a small spark. 
The foil o w i n g 
amusing experi- 
ment m a y be 
di me on the same 
principle : 

Take any small 
piece of wire 
all' ait 2 in. long 
and twist it 
around a gas- 
burner as shown 
a t A in t h e 
sketch. Have the 
tip i if the burnei 
about 1 s in. below the end of the wire. 
The wire must be just far enough away 
from the center of the burner to keep 
it out of the flame, or else it will melt. 
Now get a friend to turn on the gas 
when you are ready for it. Go around 
the room once or twice rubbing your 
feet along the carpet. When you come 
anmnd to the gaslight touch the point 
of the wire and if the gas is turned on, 
the light will flare right up as if it had 
been lit with a match. 

This experiment cannot be done on a 
damp day or without shoes, and works 
best in cold weather. — Contributed by 
E. H. Klipstein. 



A 








o 




\J 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



85 



How To Make a Trap For Rabbits, 
Rats ard Mice 

From an old fi-in. pine fence board 
cut off four pieces '.''-j ft. long and one 
6 in. square fur the end of the trap and 
another I in. by 8 in. for the door. I'se 
old boards, as new boards scare rab- 
bits. 

Figure 1 shows how the box i 1 - made. 
It should be 1 in. wide and G in. high 



2, and fasten its loop into the loop of 
the hammer. Mount the bell on a 
small board as in Fig. '■'• and fasten the 
cogwheel almost on a line with it. Now 
press down the hammer and place a 
nail in the position shown in the dia- 
gram so that the catch touches one of 
the teeth. 

Fasten the board in an upright posi- 
tion and attach two dry batteries to the 
binding-posts. If properly connected, 

OOO/i ■ 




A Good Trap for Small Animal 

top and bottom 



on the inside. Tit 
boards project 1 in. beyond the side 
boards al the back and the end In iard is 
set in. The top board should be '-' in. 
shorter than the sides at the front. Xail 
a strip on the top board back of the door 
and one on the bottom board so the 
game cannot push the door open from 
inside the trap and gel out. 

In the middle of the top board bore 
a hole and put a crotched stick' in for 
the lever to rest on. Bore another hole 
in the top of the door for the lever to 
pa^s through. Two inches from the 
back of the box bore a hole for the 
trigger, which should he made out of 
heavy wire in the manner shown in 
Fig. '.'. The door of the trap must work 
easily and loosely. 



the fly-wheel will turn quite rapidly 
and witli amazing force for so small a 
machine. The machine, however, has 
a fixed direction as shown by the arrow, 
but the belting can be arranged so as 
to send the models in a reversed direc- 
tion if required. The materials for 
the motor should not cost more than 



Novel Electric Motor 

The materials necessary to make this 
motor are an old electric bell of the 
"buzzer" type and a cogwheel from an 
old clock. 

Remove the hammer-head and gong 
from the bell, then bend the end of 
the hammer into a loop, as in Fig. 1. 
Now make a little wire catch like Fig. 




Motor 



25c for the bell and if yon have an old 
hell it will cost next to nothing. — Con- 
tributed by Fred C. Curry, Brockville, 
( Intario. 



86 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Build a Model Yacht 



Alex. E. Quinn 

Within the past few years the inter- 
esting and instructive spurt of model 
yachting lias become very popular in 
the sporting circles of San Francisco. 
This popularity has been caused prin- 
cipally by the efforts of a lately formed 
model yacht club, in the affairs of 
which some of the foremost citizens of 
San Francisco have taken a great in- 
terest. < hiite a few of these men are 



of San Francisco. 

then shaped exactly on the outside to 
template taken from the lines of the 
plan ; after which the inside must be 
hollowed out until the shell is about 
-i : ', ; -in. thick, except along the keel, 
where it is advisable to leave l /2 in. of 
wood for fastening the aluminum fin 
which takes the lead, and along the 
deck line where it is best to leave ' j in. 
thickness for fastening; the deck to the 




naval architects, marine engineers, etc. 

The yachts permitted to enter these 
races must not be over •"><> in. on the 
load waterline, with a corresponding 
sail aiea of generally not more than 
2,500 sq. in., being classified according 
io -i e, etc.. in three classes. 

The following will give an outline of 
how to construct one of these yachts. 
The first step is to build the hull, the 
best wood for this being cedar, and the 
best metal aluminum, the cedar boat 
(which will he described) is cheaper, 
hut takes a longer time to build, as the 
wood has to be thoroughly seasoned, 



PLAN 



hull. In order to make the hull per- 
fectly watertight, it is best to first ijive 
it three coats of shellac on the inside, 
then to glue strips of light canvas or 
linen upon this and then give two or 
more coats overall. For a boat of 70- 
in. overall, 50-in. on the load waterline 
and a beam of ID in., the hull must not 
weigh more than ^ lb. after the alum- 
inum fin. Fig. 1 . is fitted ; the boat com- 
plete must not weigh more than 27 lb. 
For ease in transportation the mast 
should be made portable, at the same 
time, however, the opening in the deck 
for the mast must be watertight, and 



POITLAR MECHANICS 



81 



this result is 1>est obtained by placing 
a piece of %-in. brass tubing over a 
plug secured to the keel by a wood 
screw (See Fig. 2). This tube is made 
long enough to project through the 
deck. To prevent turning, a pin is 
put through tube and plug. The mast 
may then lie put in place or removed 
very easily. An aluminum flanged 
plate bedded in white lead is placed on 
the deck where the tube o Miles through 
in i irder u 1 make it watertight. 

The bow-sprit, ( Fig. I ) is best made 
portable also, and the must suitable 
wood for thi- part is oak. The bow- 
sprit can be fitted to the deck of the 
boat by means of two bracket-, the one 
at the end of the bow-sprit made with 
three legs, the other brackel need only 
be a common strap bracket. 'I he ma- 
terial most suitable for these brackets 
is aluminum, as this metal is lightest 
and is it' it affected b\ water. 

All the rigging fittings, such as rings, 
screw eyes, pins, etc., had best be made 
of aluminum also. Two aluminum 
travelers one for the gib and one for 
the mainsail, must be titled to the deck, 
so as to give the booms enough play. 
Both should be the same length, so the 
mainsail and gib will be on the same 
angle. This angle depends on the 
strength of the wind and can be found 
by experience in sailing boom stays to 
be fitted, so that they can be adjusted 
acci irdingly. 

The best material for the sails is 
Lonsdale cambric. If care is taken to 
have the edge of the sail running from 

the gaff to the end of the 1 m. in the 

selvage, no trouble will be experienced 
on account of slack or baggy sails. 



vt.rritNecannrc 




-■£ BRASS TlX 
■£"//V5/flf 



The center of effort of the entire sail 
area must be about 2 in. or more for- 
ward of the center of buoyancy of the 



hull, because these model yachts are 
fitted without rudders and this is nec- 
essary for them to sail straight. 

The lead fur the size of boat men- 
tioned is best cast in cigar shape and 




Model Yacht Complete 
must have its center of buoyancy di- 
rectly under tile center of buoyancj of 
the hull, because if these two a 
in correct relation with each other, the 
vvaterline of the boat will change, mak- 
ing the hull dip cither forward or aft. 

The aluminum tin on which the lead 
is fastened is best attached to the hull 
of the boat (if boat is finished natural 
wood) by means of two aluminum all- 
eles :; | in b\ :; | in., or if the boat is to 
be painted or enameled, by cutting slots 
1 in. deep and 1 in. apart, or a- wide 
apart as will come out even, in the 
upper edge of the tin and then bending 
the squares alternatel) to right and 
left. The hull can then In' recessed in 
way of these squares, in each of which 
three wood screws fastening it to the 
hull had best be put ; in this way a very 
smooth job can be done. The lead 
may be fastened to the aluminum fin 
by slotting it lengthwise about half the 
diameter deep, then boring two or more 
holes through lead and fin, and fasten- 
ing the lead to the fin. 



The claw of a hammer can be used 
for removing the insulation on copper 
wire, if not more than 1 in. is taken off 
at a time. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Very Simple Steam 
Turbine 

A tin can of quart size or larger may 
serve for the boiler. The can must have 
a good lid, so that it will not leak. In 
the top of the can, near one edge, punch 
a small hole. Through this hole the 
steam is to come out and strike the 
paddles of a small wheel. Make the 
wheel of two pieces of wood, fastened 
together by cutting halfway through 
the middle of each and then fitting each 
into the other, as every boy knows how 
to do to form a four-paddle water 
wheel. Drive a pin in each side to 




A Simple Turbine Eng 



serve as a shaft. For the supports of 
the wheel use pieces of tin, bent into 
L-shape and soldered fast to the can. 
Place them in such position, with re- 
spect to the small hole punched, that 
the spurt of steam from the hole will 
strike the ends of the paddles of the 
wheel squarely. Fill the boiler three- 
fourths full of water, set it on a hot 
stove and as soon as steam is gener- 
ated fast enough to come out the es- 
cape hole with slight force the wheel 
will start to revolve. 

How to Make Paper Balloons 

Any boy who can make kites can 
make enough paper balloons for a 
Fourth of July celebration and can 
make and sell enough of them to pay 



for all the necessary materials, which 
are very few. 

Paper balloons may be of any size de- 
sired and have as many gores as one 
wishes in whatever colors one prefers. 
A very good size is 3 ft. in height with 
32 gores, each gore being 3 in. wide at 
the bottom, 8 in. wide at its widest 
point, and 1 in. wide at the top. To 
make the balloon pear-shaped, the three 
widths mentioned when added together 
(3+8+1 = 12) should be one-third of 
the height of the balloon. 

Procure close-textured tissue paper 
in any contrasting colors you like ; red 
and white are good. Cut out a paste- 
board pattern exactly the shape and 
size the gores are to be and cut the 
gores out by it. 

Varnish each gore with boiled oil 
and hang it up on a line to dry, being 
careful not to let it come in contact 
with any other gore. When they are 
perfectly dry put them together by 
means of gum water, or clear thin 
paste. To do this gum about H in. of 
a gore and lay one edge of another 
gore midway across the gummed space 
and dab down very lightly by means 
of a clean cloth. In this manner unite 
all the gores in pairs until there are but 
1C parts. Continue to unite them until 
you have two halves. Join these very 
carefully, closing the balloon at the top 
completely. Each time you paste a gore 
hang the part up until perfectly dry be- 
fore using it further. 

In the bottom of the balloon work a 
circle of wire 6 in. in diameter and 
fasten a wire with a piece of sponge 
strung on it across the circle of wire. 



When using dry cells in a damp place 
put them in a tight box and pour 
melted paraffine around them. 



A little graphite mixed in the oil 
used on lathe centers materially aids in 
obtaining proper lubrication. 

Sweet oil and tripoil form an excel- 
lent coating to prevent brass work 
from becoming tarnished. Oxalic acid 
or vinegar and salt are good to remove 
stains from the metal. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



89 



Mechanics for Young America 



Trailer for a Bicycle 



Instead of using' a seat on the han- 
dlebars or frame of a bicycle for my 
little girl. I made a trader as shown in 
Fig. 1 tn attach to the rear axle. I 
made it from old bicycle parts. The 
handlebars, which form the hack of 
the seat, fasten into the seat post of an 
old bicycle attached to the trader axle. 
The trailer is attached to the rear axle 
of the bicycle with two arms or forks 
on the ends of which are two forgings, 
formerly used on the rear ends of a 
bicycle frame, brazed in, and one of the 
tube projections cut off from each to 
make a hock as shown in Fig. '.'. The 
piece marked E shows one of these 
forgings or hooks in section. The 
original axle "f the bicycle was re- 
moved and one supplied 1 5 lli in. 
longer, which was turned below the 
threads for clearance, as shown at A. 
A washer, D, with a hexagon hole was 
fitted over the regular nut, ( ', on the 
axle and filed tapering so the forging 
or hook, K, on the trailer attachment 
could be kept in position. The washer 
F is held tightly against the hook by 



When turning from right to left the 
left hook on the trailer forks slays in 
position, while the right hook pushes 
the washer F outward and relieves the 



HowTVailer isH 
to Bicycle 

flil-A 





Fig. 2— The Hook in Position 

strain on the fork. This attachment 
al^o makes it easy to remove the 
trailer from the bicycle. The washers 
F are pushed outward and the honk- 
raised "iT the axle. — Contributed by 
John F. Grieves, Providence, R. I. 



A Window Lock 

Bore a hole through the sash of the 
lower window' and halfway through 
the sash of the upper window where 
(hey meet in the center and insert a 
heavy nail or spike. This will fasten 




Fig. 1— T 



hed to a Bicycle 



a pressure from a spring. < i. The spring the sash together so well that nothing 

is held in place by a small nut. II, and short <>f a crowbar can pry them apart, 

cotter pin, 1. This attachment makes The nail can be easily removed when 

a flexible joint for turning corners, the windows are to be opened. 



'.Ill 



POPULAR MECHANICS 




hell. 



Home-Made Telephone Transmitter 

The parts for transmitting the sound 
are encased in a covering, 11, made 
from the gong of an old electric bell. 
A round button, D, is turned or tiled 
from the carbon electrode of an old 
dry cell and a 
hole drilled 
t h r o u g h the 
center to fit in 
a binding-post 
taken from the 
s a m e battery 
cell. This but- 
ton m ust be 
carefully insu- 
lated from the 
, IT, by running the binding-post 
through a piece of small rubber tube 
where it passes through the hole and 
placing a rubber or paper washer, F, 
under the carbon" button, and an in- 
sulating washer under the nut on the 
outside. This will provide one of the 
terminals of the instrument. Con- 
struct a paper tube having the same 
diameter as the button and with a 
length equal to the depth of the bell 
case, less ! s in. (due or paste this 
tube to the button so it will form a 
paper cup with a carbon bottom. 

The diaphragm, 1!, which is the es- 
sential part of the instrument, should 
be made as carefully as possible from 
ferrotype tin. commonly called tintype 
tin. Cut a circular piece from this 
metal the exact si/e of the outside of 
the shell. A hole is made in the center 
of the disk a little larger than a bind- 
ing-post that is taken from another old 
battery cell. When making the hole 
in the disk be careful not to bend in- 
crease the tin. Scrape the black coating 
from the tin around the outside about 
14 in. wide and a place about 1 in. in 
diameter at the center. 

The second electrode, C, is made the 
same as 1 ), and fastened to the tin dia- 
phragm with the binding-post without 
using any insulation. A third binding- 
post, Ci. is fastened to the shell through 
a drilled hole to make the other ter- 
minal. The mouthpiece, A. may be 
turned from wood in any shape de- 
sired, but have a flange on the back 



side that will make a tight fit with the 
outside of the shell. 

Fill the paper tube with powdered 
carbon, E, which can be made by 
pounding and breaking up pieces of 
carbon to about the size of pin heads. 
Powdered carbon can be purchased, 
but if you make it be sure to sift out 
all the very fine particles. Assemble 
the parts as shown and the transmitter 
is ready for use. If speech is not beard 
distinctly, put in a little more, or re- 
move some of the carbon and try it 
out until yi m get the instrument work- 
ing nicely. — Contributed by Harold II. 
Cutter, Springfield, Mass. 



Quickly Made Lawn Tent 

A very simple way of erecting a 
lawn tent for the children is to take a 
large umbrella such as used on de- 
livery wagons and drive the handle 
into the ground deep enough to hold 
it solid. Fasten canvas or cotton cloth 
to the ends of the ribs and let it harg 
so that the bottom edge will touch 
the ground. Light ropes can be tied 
to the ends of the ribs and fastened 
to stakes driven in the ground in a 
tent-like manner to make the whole 
more substantial and to stand against 
a heavy wind. This makes an ex- 
ceptionally fine tent, as the umbrella 




Lawn Tent Complete 



is waterproof; also, there is more 
room to stand up in than in a tent that 
is in the shape of a wigwam. — Con- 
tributed by I. A. Whamer, Schenec- 
tady, N. Y". 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

How to Make a Windmill of One or Two Horsepower 
for Practical Purposes 



A windmill for developing from !{> 
to 3 lip. may be constructed at home, 
the expense being very small and the 
results highly satisfactory. 

The hub for the revolving fan wheel 
is first constructed. < >ne good way to 
get In 'th the hub, lining, shaft and 
spokes for the blades, is to go to a 
wheelwright's and purchase the wheel 
and axle of some old rig. There are 
always a number of discarded carriages, 
wagons or parts thereof in the rear of 
the average blacksmith's shop. Some- 
times for half a dollar, and often for 
nothing, you can get a wheel, an axle, 
and connected parts. Remove from the 
wheel, all but the four spokes needed 
for the fans as in Fig. 1. The same hub, 
axle and bearings will do. In case you 
cannot secure a wheel and shaft, the 
hub may be made from a piece of hard- 
wood, about 4 in. in diameter and (i in. 
long. A 2-in. hole should be bored 
through for a wooden shaft, or a 1 ' j-in. 
hole for a metal shaft. The hub may 
be secured by putting two or three 
metal pins through hub and shaft. Ad- 
just the spokes by boring holes for them 
and arrange them so that thev extend 
from the center \, like 1'.. The wheel 
is then ready for the blades. These 




blades should be of sheet metal or thin 
hardwood. The sizes may vary accord- 
ing to the capacity of the wheel and 
amount of room for the blades on the 
spokes. Each one is tilted so as to 



receive the force of the wind at an an- 
gle, which adjustment causes the wheel 
to revolve when the wind pressure is 
- vm i y 









F 




J§> 


E 


,/w, 


^r 


E 




,r#r,n.fl 






I H 


wMm 


~J 




i 










r^ i 


I i 








K F 


c 2 






strong enough. Secure the blades to 
the spokes by using little metal cleats. 
C and 1 ». I '.end these metal strips to 
suit the form of the spokes and flatten 
against the blades and then insert the 

screws to fasten the cleats to the w 1. 

If sheet metal blades are used, rivets 
should be used f< >r fastening them. 

The stand for the wheel shaft is 
shown in Fig. ".'. Arrange the base 
piei e in platfi >rm i irder, (J i. This is 
more fully shown in Fig. 5. ( hi lop of 
this base piece, which is about 3G in. 
long, place the seat or ring for the re- 
volving table. The circular seat is in- 
dicated at I. Fig. 1. This ring is like 
an inverted cheese box cover with the 
center cut out. It can be made by a 
tinner. Size of ring outside, 35 in. The 
shoulders are I in. high and made of 
tin also. Form the shoulder by solder- 
ing the piece on. Thus we get a smooth 
surface with sides for the mill base to 
turn in si i as t. . receive the wind at each 
point to advantage. The X-shaped 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



piece H rests in the tin rim. The X- 
form, however, dues not show in this 
sketch, but in Fig. 5, where it is marked 
S. This part is made of two pieces of 



I 



M^ 



537 



A 



W 



2-in. plank, about 3 in. wide, arranged 
so that the two pieces cross to make a 
letter X. When the pieces join, mor- 
tise them one into the other so as to. 
secure a good joint. Adjust the up- 
rights for sustaining the wheel shaft to 
the X-pjeces as shown at E, E, Fig. 2. 
These are I by 1 in. pieces of wood, 
hard pine preferred, planed and securely 
set up in the X -pieces by mortising into 
the same. Mala- the bearings for the 




wheel shaft in the uprights and insert 
the shaft. 

The gearing for the transmission of 
the power from the wheel shaft to the 
shaft calculated for the delivery of the 
power at an accessible point below musl 
next be adjusted. The windmill is in- 
tended fi ir installat i< in on top i if a build- 
ing, and the power maj be transmitted 
below, or to the top of a stand specially 
erected for the purpose. It is a good 
plan to visit some of the second-hand 
machinery dealers and get four gears, 
a pulley and a shaft. Gears about ■"> in. 
in diameter and beveled will be re- 
quired. Adjust the first pair of the 
beveled gears as at F and G. If the 
wheel shaft is metal, the gear may be 
set screwed to the shaft, or keyed to 
it. If the shaft is hardwood, it will be 
necessary to arrange fur a special con- 
nection. Tlie shaft may be wrapped 



with sheet metal and this metal fas- 
tened on with screws. Then the gear 
may lie attached by passing a pin 
through the set-screw hole and through 
the shaft. The upright shaft like the 
wheel shaft is best when of metal. 
This shaft is shown extending from the 
gear, G, to a point below. The object 
is to have the shaft reach to the point 
where the power is received for the 
service below. The shaft is shown cut 
< ■ 1 1 at K. Passing to Fig. •'! the shaft is 
again taken up at L. It now passes 
through the arrangement shown, which 
device is rigged up to hold the shaft 
and delivery wheel P in place. This 
shaft should also be metal. Secure the 
beveled gears M and X as shown. 
These transmit the power from the up- 
right shaft to the lower horizontal 
shaft. Provide the wheel or pulley, P, 
with the necessary belt to carry the 
p iwer from this shaft to the point of 
use. 

The tail board of the windmill is il- 
lustrated in Fig-. I. A good way to 
make this board is to use a section of 
thin lumber and attach it to the rear 
upright, E of Fig. 'J. This may be 
done by boring a hole in the upright 
and inserting the shaft of the tail-piece. 
In Fig. 1 is also shown the process of 
fastening a gear, R, to the shaft. The 
set screws enter the hub from the two 
sides and the points are pressed upon 




the shaft, thus holding the gear firmly 
in place. The platform for the entire 
wheel device is shown in Fig. . r >. The 



X-piecc S is bored through in the mid- 
dle and the upright shaft passes 
through. The tin run-way or ring is- 
marked T, and the X-piecc very readily 
revolves in this ring, whenever the 
wind alters and causes the wheel's 
position to change. The ring and ring 
base are secured to the platform, I r . 
The latter is made of boards nailed to 
the timbers of the staging for support- 
ing the mill. This staging is shown in 
Fig. 6, in a sectional view. The ring 
with its X-piece is marked V, the X- 
piece is marked W, and the base for 
the part, and the top of the stage is 
marked X. The stage is made of 2 by 
1-in. stuck. The height may vary, ac- 
cording tn the requirements. It the 
affair is set up on a barn or shed, the 
staging will lie sufficient tn support the 
device. Bui if the stage is constructed 
direct from the ground, it will be nec- 
essary tn use some long timbers tn get 
the wheel up high enough tn receive 
the benefit of the force of the wind. 
Proceeding on the plan of the derrick 
stand, as shown in Fig. fi, a stage of 
considerable height can lie obtained. 

To Renew Old Dry Batteries 

Remove the paper thai covers the cell 
and knock several good-sized Ivies in 
the zinc shell. Place the battery in a 
glass jar, fill it two-thirds full of siting 
sal ammoniac (or salt) solution and 
connect the terminals tn whatever ap- 
paratus the current is tn be used for. 
A few drops of sulphuric acid quickens 
and improves the action. The output 
of the cell will be nearly as great as 
when the battery was first bought. 
( nnti-iliuted by C. W. Arbitt, Austin 
Texas. 

Prussian blue and Chinese blue are 
both the same chemically but they do 
not cut or look the same. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

Another Electric Motor 



When an acetylene lamp is in 
order it will light up slowly with a 
hissing noise followed by a pure white 
flame. Should the lamp light up quickly 
with a yellowish flame, it is a sj^n <<\ 
a leak somewhere. 



This form of electric motor is used 
largely in England in the form of an 
indicator. It is very easily made and 




if you have an old electro-magnet will 
cost practically nothing. 

A large soft-in m wheel is mounted mi 
an axle with a pulley-wheel mi one end 
and a circuit breaker mi the other end. 
I he teetli mi the circuit-breaker must 
be tlie same number as on the soft-iron 
wheel. 

The electro-magnet is mounted so 
that its cure is level with the axle and 
in a line with the wheel. ( )ne wire 
from it is attached tn one binding screw 
and the other end is grounded tn the 
iron frame that supports it. This 
frame is connected tn the frame sup- 
porting the wheel. A small brush 
presses ,,n the circuit-breaker and is 
en, me, -ted tn the other binding screw. 

In the diagram A represents the iron 
wheel : I'., the brush ; < '. the circuit- 
breaker: I), the magnet. The wire 
connecting the two frames is shown 
b) a di itted line. 

To start the motor, attach your bat- 
tery tn the screws and turn the wheel 
a little. The magnel attracts one of 
the teeth nil the wheel, but as soon as 
it is parallel with the cue oi the mag- 
net the circuit is broken and the mo- 
mentum of the wheel brings another 
tooth tn be attracted. 

Tn reverse the motor reverse the con- 
nections ami start the wheel the other 
way. He sure that the frames are 
si i cm ed ilnw ii W ell m- the motor will 
run jerkily .m,] destro) the connec 
tions.- Contributed by F. Crawford 
Curry. Brockville, ( hitario. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

How to Make a Propelling Vehicle 




Any boy, with a little knack and a 
few odd tools, can rig up various con- 
trivances which will he a source of 
pleasure to himself and oftentimes can 
be sold, to 
,B =n_ less inge- 

nious hoys, 
for a snug lit- 
tle sum. Any 
tool a boy 
can obtain is 
apt to be of 
use to him, 
chisel, bit, jack-knife or hammer. 

Figure 1 shows what two boys did 
with old cycle wheels. They went to 
some junk shops where the concerns 
had purchased cast-away bicycles and 
noticed that there were numerous 
wheels in very good order that could 
be selected from among the sets of 
wheels with broken or bent rims, 
spokes, hurst tires, etc. In fact, the 
lads had no trouble in getting several 
sets of bicycle wheels in good condition 
for very little money. These wheels 
were taken to the back-yard shop of 
the boys where the young fellows had 
rigged up a shed-like affair and put in a 
bench. The previous Christmas one of 
the boys received a box of tools as a 
gift, in which was included a little hand 
vise and the required tools for general 
boy's h a n d i- 
work. 

Four of the 
c y c 1 e wheels 
they used in 
in a k i n g t h e 
hand - propelled 
vehicle shown 
at Fig. 1. 

A w o o d e n 
body, A, made 

of S 111 o t ll 

boards rests 
upon s haft s. 
Fixed on this 
1>' idy is an upright carrying the sprocket 
1'.. The upright is a piece of wood about 
in in. high and I in. wide, fitted with 
one of the bearings from the cycle. The 
regular cycle chain sprocket is used at 




B as well as upon the shaft. The regular 
chain of the cycle is likewise employed, 
so, when buying the wheels, it is well 
to select one or more chains with cor- 
responding sprockets from the junk 
heap. The detail of the adjustment of 
the parts is shown in next views. The 
letter D signifies the seat which is a 
box. The steering gear is a bent iron 
rod, also found in the waste pile of the 
junk shop, and is bent to right form 
by heating and bending over on a rock 
or any solid matter. The steering rod 
is marked E. It fits into a socket in 
the shaft of the forward wheels. 

Figure 3 shows the construction of 
the cart below. The cog is keyed or 
set-screwed to the driving shaft of the 
wheels with either key or set-screw 
used in original fastening, as the case 




S*- 1 " 



Gear 

may lie. The chain is marked F, and 
there is a slot cut in the floor of the 
cart to let the chain pass up and 
through to the cos; on the propelling 
shaft crank. The disk which receives 
the steering rod is at G. The forward 
shaft bears only at the center upon a 
disk of metal, consisting of any circular 
piece found among the pieces of iron 
or brass at the junk store. One can 
gel nearly all the mechanical parts in 
junk establishments that purchase 
parts of out-of-date or cast-away bicy- 
cles. The detail of the driving shaft is 
shown at Fig. •'>. The sprocket wheel 
is at 11 and this is just as it is taken 
from the original bicycle shaft. The 
bearings consist of wires looped around 
the shaft and inserted into holes bored 
in metal plates as shown. These plates 
are screwed to the bottom of the cart. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



95 



The shaft itself is found in rods or even 
cast-away metal axles which are com- 
monly found in most any carriage 
works, cycle shops or junk dealer's. 
Figure 4 shows the disk that receives 
the steering gear. The disk is bored 
around edges for the securing screws, 
while the center is open for the steer- 
ing rod. When put together, three 
boys usually ride. One steers and the 
other two turn the crank. Freight can 
be carried and some boys do quite an 
express business in their town with one 
of the carts like this that thev made. 



Ringing a Bell by Touching a Gas Jet 

The experiment of scuffling the feet 
over a carpet and then producing a 
spark which will light the gas by touch- 
ing the chandelier is described on an- 
other page. One of our correspondents 
says that if a wire is connected to the 
chandelier and led to one terminal of 
the coherer of a wireless telegraph out- 
fit the bell will ring every time the 




Tapper 

6 



Hi 



Zl 



Relay 



HiH 



Touch the Gas Jet and Ring the Bell 

spark is produced by touching the 
chandelier, and that, as the chandeliers 
are all connected by the gas-pipe, the 
bell will ring, no matter in which room 
the spark is produced. 



The covering quality will be greatly 
improved if some dry red lead is added 
to the shellac varnish used fur killing 
knots. 



How to Make a Wood-Turning Lathe 
Out of an Old Sewing Machine 

With a hack-saw, cut off the arm 
containing the needle on line AM, Fig. 
1, leaving the shaft only. On the end 
of the shaft will be found a round plate, 




in which drill four 3/16-in. holes. Now 
secure, or have turned, a piece of iron 
or steel 1% in. in diameter, Fig. 2. 
Drill and countersink four 3/16-in. 
holes in it to fit the holes on the shaft 
plate. File a spur center 5/1 G in. long, 
and two side points 3/l(i in. long. Bolt 
this plate to the shaft plate with four 
flat-headed stove bolts, 3/16 in. in di- 
ameter by % or % in. long, Fig. 3. 

For the bed, use a board 32 in. long 
and as wide as the base of the machine 
arm. This gives a limit of 2 ft. be- 
tween spur and dead centers. Let this 
board be made level with the rest of 
machine table by making a pair of legs 
if needed. Next make a T-rail, Fig. 4, 
of two boards, one 5 by % by 33 in., 
the other iW* by % by 32 in. Three- 
quarter inch of the wider board pro- 
jects over each of the smaller boards. 
Nail firmly and clinch nails, or screw 
together. Screw this rail on the ma- 
chine board so that its center coincides 
exactly with the machine centers. Bore 
a number of %-in, holes with centers 
2% in. apart along the center line of 
this rail, beginning 6 in. from the end 
nearest the machine. Make another 
T-rail for slide tool rest, of two pieces 
32 by 3 by •"• i in., and 32 by V/ 2 by % 
in. Fasten this in front of the larger 
T-rail and parallel to it, the center 
lines being 6% in. apart. 

To make the tail-piece, that is. the 
part to hold wood to be turned, get a 
board 6% by 7 by % in., and on the 
edges, Fig. 5, A, screw two pieces 7 
by % by iy L > in. so that the cap thus 



oo POPULAR MECHANICS 

made will fit snugly over the large T- threaded to fit the crank, on the head- 
rail. Fasten to these last two pieces, end of the crank block, and a plain nut 



o 



Spur Center 



End View 





Front 



with screws, two more pieces 7 by % by 
'■'■ i in., Fig. 5, 1!. This tail-piece should 



move smoothly 
no side motion. 



ack and forth with 
Now get a block of 
hardwood 4 
by 2 1,4 in., 
and l :i 4 in- 
higher than 
the spur cen- 
t e r w h e n 
mounted on 
the middle 
of the tail- 
piece just de- 
scribed. At 
exactly the 
height of the 
spur center 
bore through 
this block a 
■"• ! in. hoi e, 
Fig. 5. I lave 
a blacksmith make a crank S in. long, 
threaded fur •"> in. as shown. At the 
dead center end taper the crank and 
make a cup center, out of which allow 
a •'! 1 ".-in. point to project. The cup 
prevents the point from boring into 




to act as a bearing, on the crank end. 
I 'nc and one-half inches from the back 
of the tail-piece bore a %-in. hole. 
Make a peg % by ~ in. To put in a 
piece of wood to turn, move the tail- 
piece back until the head end is over 
the center of the hole nearest the end 
of the block, then the pen" will slip into 
second hole from the head end of the 
tail-piece, and into a corresponding T- 
rail hole, pinning the two together. In- 
sert wood and screw up dead center to 
hold it. 

For a tool rest make a second piece 
like the base of the tail-piece, 11 in. 
long and fitting the small T-rail. Cut 
out two blocks 1 ' 2 by '. M 4 by 3 /4 in. and 
screw them, one on each end of the 
base of the tool rest, covering the half 
farthest from the centers, and having 
an 8-in. space between blocks. On the 
loos of these blocks screw a strip 11 by 
\" ] by '"'i in. Now for the rest proper, 
cut out a board 8 by 11/16 by 9 in. to 
slide in the slot of the rest. Take a 
piece of oak 11 by 2 in., and high 
enough so that the top will lie level 
with the centers of the lathe, and bevel 




wood too rapidly. One inch from the 
outer end of tile crank block. Fig. •">, 
bore a 3/16-in. hole, and force a l /4-in. 
bolt to cut its thread in the wood. This 
is a sd screw to hold the crank in any 
position desired. Place a strap nut. 



as shown in Fig. ii. Screw on one end 
of tlie 8 bv 9-in. piece exactly in the 
middle. This piece will slide in and 
out, closer or farther from the centers 
as desired, and also along the T-rail. 
A center for turning rosettes, saucers, 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



91 



etc., may be made as follows : Remove 
the spur center and bolt in its place a 
1-in. circular board of the same diamc- 



and 4. Hold the brass strips apart by 
means of the hard rubber strip and 
screws. Do not let the screws come 





■f 




H 1 




; 1 




■f~~ 


mm^ 




J J- [ 


V 




( 


-i 


( — 




f.o 












'«*» j J 


i| 




h 


'** 


v -*- 


> 


H 



101 

T 1- 

o 




ter, using longer 3/16-in. stove bolts 
with heads countersunk. Rotate the 
lathe, and with a gimlet bore a hole at 
the exact center and through the board. 
Now take off the board and counter- 
sink on the back a place for the head 
of a coarse threaded screw. Turn in 
a 1%-in. screw, replace the board and 
any block held on the end of the rota- 
ting screw will turn on and be held 
while being turned. — Contributed by 
L. L. Winans, Mexico, Mo. 



all the way through the rubber strip 
or you are liable to get a shock in case 
you should touch both screws simul- 
taneously. Screw a rubber handle onto 
the rubber strip to move the lever back 
and forth with. Fig. 2 shows the ar- 
rangement of strips, handle, screws, 
etc., in detail. Fig. 3 is an end view 
of the same. — Contributed by Eugene 
F. Tuttle, lr., Newark, ( )hio. 



Bronze bearings may be cleaned with 




Reversing Small Battery Motor 



Make the switch out of a piece of 
slate (for the base) two strips of brass, 
a rubber strip and handle and some 
binding-posts from old dry batteries. 
Fasten the brass strips at 5 and 6, Fig. 
1, so they can swing from 1 and 3 to 'i 



ution of washing powder and 
water run through the oil cups while 
the machine is running without any 
load. The solution, cutting out the dirt 
and grime, will come from the bearing 
very black. About 1 pt. of this mixture 
should be run through each bearing, 
then clean thoroughly with clear water. 



98 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A Water Candlestick 



A glass of water makes a fine emer- 
gency candlestick. Weight one end of 





,t 
1 




Ht'- 

o 


(.over 




1 1 

i\ 'i 

' Je i 

1 o ! 
i CO | 

1 , 
1 | 


a. 


Cover 


•> 




" ' " " " 





Plan of Magazine Binder 

the candle with a nail just large enough 
to hold the candle in the water so thai 
the water comes near its top edge, but 
does not touch the wick, and then light 
the candle. 

It will burn until the last vestige of 
wick is gone and the flame will not 
flicker. The melted tallow that runs 
down but serves to hold the candle 
mi ire statii mary. 




± 



Magazine Binder Complete 

How to File Soft Metals 

When filing soft metals, such as 
solder or babbitt metal, the file, after a 
few strokes, will become filled with 
metal, causing scratches on the surface 
being filed. The surface may be filed 
smooth, provided the file has been well 
oiled. The oil prevents the cutters 
from clogging and also allows the metal 
to yield easily. Oil the file every few 
minutes and use a card frequently in 
cleaning and the work will be smooth. 
— Contributed by Jno. E. Ganaway, 
Paducah, Ky. 



To Make a Magazine Binder 

Get % yd. of cloth, one shoestring, a 
pasteboard box for covers, and some 
heavy paper. 
Cut the paste- 
board into two 
covers, Vi in. 
larger all 
around than the 
magazine, e x- 
cept at the back 
with w h i c h 
they should be 
even. Next cut 
a strip 1 in. 
wide off the 
back of each 
cover. Place 
the covers on 
the cloth, Fig. 
1, with the back 
edges Vl in. far- 
ther apart than the thickness of the 
volume to be bound. Cut the cloth 
around the covers, leaving l 1 -; in. mar- 
gin. 1'aste the cloth on the covers as 
they lay, and turn over the 1 ' - in. mar- 
gin, [lasting down smoothly. Cut a 
piece of stiff paper to fit and paste on 
the back. Take a piece of cloth as 
wide as the cover, and long enough to 
extend over the back and l 1 ' L > in. be- 
yond e a c h "strip." 
Paste on to hold all 
together. Two pieces 
of paper the exact size 
of t h c m a g a z i n e, 
pasted on the inside of 
each cover protects 
the edges of the cloth, 
and adds to the appearance. Let dry 
slowly. 

With backs and edges of magazines 
even, place in a vise and set up tight 
allowing % in. from back to show above 
the vise. Pore three 3/16-in. holes V2 
in. from the back, one in the middle, 
the other two 1 ' - in. from each end. 
Make corresponding holes in the strips 
of the binder and use the shoestring to 
complete as in Fig. 2. 




A piece of wire solder makes a good 
temporary spline for the draftsman. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



99 



Mechanics for Young America 



A Library Set in Pyro-Carving 

By Helen Westinghouse 



The multitude of indifferently ex- 
ecuted small articles which followed the 
introduction of pyrography is begin- 
ning to disappear, people are consider- 
ing the art mi ire seriously and apply- 
ing it to more dignified uses. Pyro- 
carving is one of the new methods oi 
decorating furniture which is both 
beautiful and practical, two qualities 
which do not always go together. 

The library set illustrated consists of 



the stain to be applied directly to the 
wood without a filler. 

On the outside of the supports the 
design is drawn in with pencil, the 
background is then cut out smoothly 
with a chisel to the depth of an eighth 
of an inch, leaving the decoration in re- 
lief. It is then burned deeply, the back- 
ground in straight flat strokes, tin- out- 
lines having the effect of a sloping, dark 
edge. The shadows are burned in as 




^ 



Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving 



a table 30 by 50 in. with two benches, 

11 in. wide of the same length. The 
supports are made of selected white 
pine, which must he absolutely free 
from pitch. The pine is soft enough to 
work easily with the point and stands 
wear much better than basswood. The 
tops and braces are made of curly fir, 
all (if the material must he 2-in. lumber, 
which dresses to about an inch and a 
half. All surfaces, except the faces of 
the supports, are given a well-rubbed 
coat of oil with a little burnt umber, 



deeply as possible and the shading is 
put in with the flat of the point. 

A wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish 
is most suitable for this set. 



A Phoneidoscope 

The phoneidoscope has many and 
varied forms, hut the simplest can be 
made by bending the forefinger and 
thumb so as to form a circle and then 
drawing a soap film across them. This 
is done similar to blowing soap bubbles. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



The angle with the direction of the light 
may be readily adjusted by turning the 
wrist, a motion of the elbow alters the 
distance from the mouth and the ten- 
sion of the film can be regulated by 
moving the thumb and forefinger. 
Singing or speaking at the film when 
under proper tension will cause beauti- 
ful figures to appear, which may be re- 
flected from the film directly on the 
screen. — Contributed by Robt. E. Brad- 
ley, Winchester, Mass. 



A Home-Made Yankee Bobsled 

A good coasting sled, which I call a 
Yankee bob, can be made from two 
hardwood barrel staves, two pieces of 



*"■ 




Runners Made of Barrel Staves 

8 by 6-in. pine, a piece of hardwood for 
the rudder and a few pieces of boards. 
The 2 by 6-in. pieces should be a little 
longer than one-third the length of the 
staves, and each piece cut tapering 
from the widest part, 6 in., down to 2 
in., and then fastened to the staves with 
large wood screws as shown in Fig. 1. 
Boards 1 in. thick are nailed on top of 
the pieces for a seat and to hold the 
runners together. The boards should 
be of such a length as to make the run- 
ners about 18 in. apart. 

A V-in. shaft of wood, Fig. 2, is 
turned down to 1 in. on the ends and 
put through holes that must be bored 
in the front ends of the 2 by 6-in. 



pieces. A small pin is put through 
each end of the shaft to keep it in place. 
The rudder is a l ] /2-in. hardwood piece 
which should be tapered to y 2 in. at the 
bottom and shod with a thin piece of 
iron. A ^-in. hole is bored through 
the center of the shaft and a lag screw 
put through and turned in the rudder 
piece, making it so the rudder will turn 
right and left and, also, up and down. 
Two cleats are nailed to the upper sides 
of the runners and in the middle 
lengthways for the person's heels to 
rest against. 

Any child can guide this bob, as all 
he has to do is to guide the rudder 
right and left to go in the direction 
named. If he wants to stop, he pulls 
up on the handle and the heel of the 
rudder will dig into the snow, causing 
too much friction for the sled to go any 
further. — Contributed by Win, Algie, 
Jr., Little Falls, X. Y. 



How to Make a Small Microscope 

Theoretically a simple microscope 
can be made as powerful as a com- 
pound microscope, but in practice the 
minute size required by the simple lens 
tn give the highest power makes it al- 
most impossible to be used. However, 
a lens having a reasonable magnifying 
power can be made in a few minutes for 
almost nothing. Take a piece of glass 
tubing, heat one place in a hot flame, 
hold one end and pull on'the other and 
draw the heated place down to a fine 
string as shown in Fig. 1. Take about 
;i in. of this fine tube and heat one end 
which will form a glass bead as shown 
in Fig. 2. This bead is the lens. When 
in this form it can be used only in an 
artificial light coming from one direc- 
tion, but if you take a piece of card- 



















F,5 1 




o 

F.G 3 






F,o 2 





Lens Formed by Heat 

board and bore a hole in it a little 
smaller than the bead on the glass tube 
which is forced into the hole, Fig. 3, 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



you can use this mounted lens in or- 
dinary daylight. In this case a mirror 
must be used to reflect the light up 
through the lens. It is difficult to see 
anything at first, as the lens must be 
held very close to the eye. but in prac- 
tice you will soon learn to see the ob- 
ject as it appears enlarged. 

If you soak a little dried grass or 
hay in water for a few days and look 
at a drop of this water, germs in vari- 
ous life forms can be seen. The water 
must be put on the lens. One thing to 
remember is that the smaller the lens, 
the greater the magnifying power. — 
Contributed by Daniel Gray, Decatur, 
Illinois. 



The water in hot water supply pipes 
will freeze quicker than water that 
has nut been heated. This is because 
the air, which is a poor conductor of 
heat, has been driven out by the heat. 



How to Carry Books 

Almost all school children carry their 
books with a strap put around and 
buckled very 
tight. This will 
make dents i n 
the cover where 
the board over- 
laps the body of 
the book. If the 
strap is left 
loose, the bonks 
are liable to slip 
o u t. Place the 
cover of one book between the cover 
and fly leaf of its neighbor and the 
difficulty will be remedied. This will 
place the bunks in alternate directions. 
Books stacked in this manner do not 
require the strap buckled tight, or, 
they can be carried without any strap 
just as well. — Contributed by Thos. De 
Loof, Grand Rapids, Mich. 




^V 






*y^3r^ ; " m* ^ St 




BOTTLE PUSHERS.— This is a game in which the competitors push bottles on the ice with 
hockey sticks. All the bottles must be the same size and make. The persons participating must keep 
their bottles upright at all times. The bottles are lined up for the start and at the word "go," each 
person pushes a bottle across the field for a distance that is agreed upon. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



How to Make a Hammock 

Any one can make a hammock as 
good as can be bought and that at a 
cost so small that every member of 
the family can possess one providing 
there are places enough for hanging 
them. 

The materials required are a needle 
about 7 in. long, and with a big' eye, an 
iron ring for each end of the hammock, 
two long smooth sticks mi which to 
knit the hammock and two pounds of 
strong hemp cord or twine. The twine 
may be colored in any color cm' com- 
bination of e<'li>rs desired. A Roman 
stripe at each end of the hammock 
makes a pretty effect. 

A hammock 45 in. wide will not be 
too large for solid comfort. To knit it 
first thread the big needle and holding 
it in the left hand, hold the cord in 
place with the thumb until you have 
looped the cord over the tongue, then 
pass the cord under the needle to the 
opposite side and catch it over the 
tongue. Repeat this operation until the 
needle is full. Cut a 2-yd. length of 
cord and make a loop and fasten to the 
dour knob or to some other convenient 
place. Tie the cord on the needle to 
this loop 3 in. from the end of the loop. 
Place the small mesh stick under tin- 
cord with the beveled edge close to the 
loop, and, with a thumb on the cord to 
hold it in place, pass the needle around 
the stick and then, point downward, 
pass it through the loop from the top. 



them off the stick and proceed in the 
same way with the next row, passing 
the needle first through each of the 
30 knots made for the first row. 
Make •"><> rows and then tie the last 
loops to the other iron ring. Stretchers 
may be made and put in place and the 
hammock, strong and durable, is fin- 
ished. The work must be carefully and 
evenly done. One is apt to have a little 
trouble getting the first row right, but 
after that the work proceeds quite 
rapidly. 



How to Obtain Cheap Dry Batteries 

Not very many people realize that 
good, serviceable dry cells can be ob- 
tained from an automobile garage very 
cheap. These cells having been "run 
out" beyond the required number of 
amperes for automobile use, will give 
excellent service, considering their cost. 
Mam- of them will give two-thirds of 
their original amperage. Six of such 
cells have been in use on my door-bell 
circuit for nearly a year. They can be 
used for other purposes just as well. — 
< outrilmted by If. II. Cutter. 




Water Telescope 



and then firing it over the stick so form- 
ing the first half of the knot. 

Pull this tight and hold in place with 
a thumb while throwing the cord over 
your hand, which forms the loop. Pass 
the needle fr> mi under through the loops 
and draw fast to fasten the knot. Hold 
this in place and repeat the operation. 

Make 30 of these knots and then push 



How to Make a Water Telescope 

Before you decide on a place to cast 
your hook it is best to look into the 
water to see whether any fish are there. 
Yes, certainly, you can look into the 
water and see the fish that are 
there swimming about, if you 
— ..infl iv have the proper equipment. 
What you need is a water tele- 
scope. This is a device made 
of wood or metal with one end 
of glass. When the glass end is 
submerged, by looking in at the open 
end, objects in . the water are made 
plainly visible to a considerable depth. 
In Norway, the fishermen use the wa- 
ter telescope regularly in searching for 
herring shoals or cod. 

All that is necessary to make a 
wooden water telescope is a long 
wooden box, a piece of glass for one 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



103 



nd 



end and some paint and putty for mak- 
ing the seams watertight. Fix 
the glass in one end of the box, 
and leave the other open to look 
through. 

A tin water telescope is more 
convenient than the wooden 
one, but more difficult to make. 
The principal essential for this 
is a circular piece of glass for 
the large end. A funnel shaped 
tin horn will do for the rest. 
Snider in the glass at the lar 
and the telescope is made. Sinkers con- 
sisting of strips of lead should lie sol- 
dered on near the bottom to counter- 
act the buoyancy of the air contained 
in the watertight funnel and also helps 
to submerge the big end. The inside 
of the funnel should be painted black 
to prevent the light from being reflect- 
ed on the bright surface of the tin. If 
difficulty is found in obtaining a cir- 
cular piece of glass, the bottom may 
be made square and square L;lass used. 
Use plain, clear glass; not magnifying 
glass. To picnic parties the water tel- 
escope is of great amusement, revealing 
numerous odd sights in the water which 
many have never seen before. 



along the top of the fence about 1 in. 




How to Rid Your Yard of Cats 

The following is a description of a 
device I built at my home in Brooklyn, 
which not only gave us relief from the 



Wooden Water Telescope 



apart, fastening them down with small 
staples, care being taken that they did 
not touch. To the ends of these wires 
I fastened ordinary insulated bell wire, 
running them to the house and con- 
necting them to the upper binding- 
posts of an induction coil; I then ran 
a wire from the lower binding-post of 
my coil through the batteries back to 
the other lower binding-post of coil, 
breaking the circuit by putting in an 
ordinary switch. The more batteries 
used, the stronger the current. The 
switch should always be left open, as 
it u^es up the current very rapidly. 

When "tabby" is well on the wires I 
close the switch and she goes the length 
of the fence in bounds, often coming 
back to see what the trouble is, thus 
receiving another shock. — Contributed 
by Charles L. Pultz. 



A gouge may be used as a substitute 




Wires 



Batteries 



Switch 



\ 



JL_J 

Electric Apparatus for Driving Away Cats 

nightly feline concerts, but also fur- bit if a proper sized bit is not at hand, 
nished much amusement to my friends. The gouge can lie placed in the brace 
I first ran two bare copper wires the same as a bit. 



104 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Drying Films 

The drying of photographic film in 
full lengths without scratching or curl- 
ing is quite difficult. Various devices 
are used to keep the film straight, and 




Pins Keep the Film Straight 

push pins or thumb tacks are supplied 
with almost all of them. The illus- 
tration shows a simple and inexpensive 
device constructed of common wood 
clothespins without any metal pins to 
come in c< intact with the film and 
cause rust streaks. A pair of pins are 
fastened at each end of the film by 
pushing one pin over the other which 
in turn is clamped on the film. A string 
tied to the heads of one pair of pins 
provides a way to hang the whole on a 
nail. The lower pair of pins makes a 
weight to keep the film straight. — Con- 
tributed by J. Mac Gregor, Montreal, 
Canada. 



Grooved Pulley Made from Sheet Tin 

A grooved pulley which will run true 
and carry a round belt may be made 
without the use of other tools than a 
compass and pair of shears, with a drill 
or punch for making two rivet holes. 

Lay off a circle on the tin, of the di- 
ameter desired for the bottom of the 



groove. Then lay off a concentric 
circle of % in- greater radius. Cut 
out along the lines of the large circle. 
On the line of the small circle mark 
with a prick punch or nail a series of 
slight dents, about ^4 > n - apart, all the 
way around. Now make cuts from the 
line of the large circle to these dents, 
stopping when the shears give the lit- 
tle "click" on entering the dent. Bend 
the little tongues thus formed alter- 
nately to the right and left, then by 
shaping them with some care you will 
have a good running surface for the 
belt. It will not make any difference if 
there are more tongues on one side 
than the other, or if they are not equally 
spaced, within reason. 

For the hub, solder or rivet a 
"handle" across the center hole and 
drill a hole through it of the same size 
as the center hole. With the help of 
solder a grooved pulley which will 
answer almost every experimental 
purpose may be made, and it is re- 
markable with how slight care a per- 
fectly true wheel may be made in this 
manner. 

The same principle might in some 
way be applied to gear-wheels, for light 
and temporary use. — Contributed by 
C. W. Nieman, New York City. 



An Emergency Glass Funnel 

Secure a glass bottle having a small 
neck and tie a string saturated in kero- 
sene around 
the outside 
at A and B 
as shown in 
the sketch. 
Light the 
string a n d 
allow it to 
b u r n until 
the glass is 
heated, then plunge the bottle quickly 
into water. The top or neck will then 
come off easily. The sharp edges are 
ground or filed off smooth. This will 
make a good emergency funnel which 
serves the purpose well for filling wide 
necked bottles. — Contributed by Jos. 
W. Sorenson, Everett, Wash. 




POPULAR MECHANICS 
Two Boys Build an Automobile 



105 



accompanying 
show t h e 



The 
engravin^ 

completed work of twin 
boys, Wilford and Win- 
furd Goddard, 15 years 
of age. The boys started 
out with no other mate- 
rial than what they 
could collect around 
their own home. No 
suggestions were received 
by them and they de- 
signed a n d completed 
the work of building an 
automobile with the ex- 
ception of the gasoline 
engine. This engine 
they purchased f r o m 
their earnings. The 
automobile is about 8 ft. 
long, with a 40-in. tread. 
The driving arrangement from the en- 
gine to the rear axle is connected to a 
cone clutch, which in turn is connected 
to a chain drive. The wheels were 
made from large carriage wheels cut 
down to the proper size and fitted with 
28-in. rims. The tires are standard 
bicycle tires with an extra cover. On 
a trial trio it carried four boys ('< 




The Twins and Their Machine 



miles, up and down bills and over 
sandy roads, at a speed of about ID 
miles an hour. 

A scientist has calculated that the 
eyelids of the average man open and 
shut no fewer than [,000,000 times in 
the course of a single year of his ex- 
istence. 




Seat Removed to Show Construction 



io« POPULAR MECHANICS 

How to Make an Etched Copper Picture Frame 



Secure a heavy piece of copper about 
8 or Hi gauge, cut to 1 by 7% in. Make 
a design on a piece of paper. The ac- 
companying sketch offers a suggestion. 




Etched Copper 



If the design is to be symmetrical, 
draw a line down the middle of the 
paper, make one-half the fold and trace 
the remaining half by placing a piece 
of double-surfaced carbon paper be- 
tween the halves. Fasten this design 
with a little paste on the copper at two 
of its corners and trace it on the copper 
by means of the carbon paper 

Remove the paper, and, with a small 
brush and black varnish or asphaltum 
paint, cover the part not to be eaten by 
the acid of the bath into which the 
metal is to be immersed. Two or three 
coats will be necessary to withstand 
the acid. The conventional trees, the 
border as shown in the illustration, and 
the baclc are covered with the varnish 
or asphaltum. 

The etching solution should be put 
in a stone vessel of some kind and 
care should be taken not to allow it 
to get on the hands or clothes. A stick 
should be used to handle the metal 
while it is in the solution. This solu- 
tion is made by putting' in the stone 
jar the following: Water a little more 
than one-half, nitric acid a little less 



than one-half. Do not add the water to 
the acid. Leave the metal in this solu- 
tion three or four hours. The time will 
depend upon the strength of the acid 
and the depth to which you wish the 
etching to be done. An occasional ex- 
amination of the object will show 
when to take it out. 

When the etching has been carried 
as far as desirable, take the copper from 
the bath and remove the asphaltum by 
scraping it as clean as possible, using 
an old case knife. After doing this, put 
some of the solution, or pickle as it is 
called, in an old pan and warm it over 
a flame. Put the metal in this hot 
liquid and swab it with batting or cloth 
fastened to the end of a stick. Rinse 
in clear water to stop the action of the 
acid. When clean, cut the metal out 
from the center where the picture is to 
be placed, using a metal saw. 

Solder on the back several small clips 
with which to hold the picture in place. 
There must also be a support soldered 
in place to keep the frame upright. To 
further clean the metal before solder- 
ing, use a solution in the proportion of 
one-half cup of lye to 3 gal. water. 
Heat either the solution or the metal 
just before using. 

When soldering, care must be taken 
to have the parts to be soldered thor- 
oughly clean. Any grease or foreign 
matter will prevent the solder from 
running properly. On a piece of slate 
slab, heavy glass or other hard, non- 
absorbent substance that is clean, put 
a little water and grind a lump of borax 
around until the resultant is like thin 
cream. Thoroughly clean the parts 
that are to be soldered by scraping 
with a knife, and do not touch with the 
fingers afterward. Place a piece of thin 
silver solder between the parts after 
having coated them and the solder with 
the borax. Use a pair of tweezers to 
pick up the solder. Hold the parts 
firmly together and apply heat — slowly 
at first until all moisture has been ex- 
pelled and the borax crystallized, after 
which the flame may be applied more 
directly and the parts brought to a 
s< ildering heat. An alcohol flame will 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



107 



do. Heat applied too quickly will 
throw off the snider and spoil the 
attempt. 



painted in some pretty tint, or, if pre- 
ferred, may be enameled. — Contributed 
by G. J. Tress. 



LP 



=0 



^ 



L7 



^ 





r^; 



2H3 
Fig 4 



Details of Easel Co 



There are various ways of finishing 
the metal. It may be polished by 
means of powdered pumice, chalk or 
charcoal, and then treated with a coat 
of French varnish diluted ten times its 
volume in alcohol. Another popular 
way is to give the background a bluish- 
green effect by brushing it over a great 
many times, after it has been cleaned, 
with a solution composed of muriate 
of ammonia. 1 part; carbonate of am- 
monia, •'! parts; water, •? I parts. The 
whole may then be treated with French 
varnish to preserve the colors. 



How to Make an Easel 

A strong and substantial easel may 
be made at home with very little ex- 
pense and no great difficulty. 

Smooth down with a plane, four 
pieces of pine, 1 in. thick, I in. wide 
and 1 ft. long, until suitable for legs. 
Make three cross-pieces, Fig. 1, and 
join the legs with them as shown in 
Fig. 2. With an auger 1m ire a hole in 
each leg about ■"> in. from the bottom, 
and fit into each a little peg, Fig. 2, for 
the picture to rest on. The peg should 
be of hardwood so it will not break. 

Cut the handle from an old broom, 
measure off the right length, and put a 
hinge on one end. Fasten this leg on 
the second cross-piece, thus forming a 
support for the two front legs, big. :!. 
The easel may be finished according to 
the individual taste. It may be sand- 
papered and stained and varnished, or 




How to Make a Wind Propeller 

A wind propeller may be constructed 
with four old bicycle wheels arranged 
with shafts pretty much like the shafts 
of a hand-propelled cart. The platform 
is flatter, how- 
ever, and the 
body one tier 
so that it is 
w e r. A 
framework of 
wood is built 
at M and this 

Wind Propeller 

is a support 
for several purposes. The sail is se- 
cured to the mast which is fixed into 
the body of the carl as shown. The 
sail is linen fabric. There are two cross- 
pieces to aid in keeping the sail prop- 
erly opened, 'flic steering arrangement 
is through tile rear shaft. The shaft is 
pivoted as in a hand-propelled cart, and 
the rod I extends from I lie middle con- 
nection of the shaft up to a point where 
the person seated on the wooden frame 
can handle it. There is a brake ar- 
ranged by making a looped piece J and 
hinging it as shown. This piece is 
metal, fitted with a leather face. The 
cord K is pulled to press the brake. 
I marks the support for the mast un- 
derneath the body of the cart. In a 
steady breeze this cart spins nicely 
alone the roads. 



Never change a single ball in a bear- 
ing. Renew them all. 



108 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Construct an Annunciator 



Oftentimes a single electric bell may 
be connected in a circuit so that it 
can he operated from more than one 
push button. These push buttons are 
usually located in entirely different 
parts of the building and it is neces- 
sary to have some means of determin- 
ing the particular push button that was 
pressed and caused the bell to operate. 
The electric annunciator is a device 
that will indicate or record the various 
calls or signals that may be sent over 
the circuits to which the annunciator 
is connected. A very simple and inex- 
pensive annunciator may he made in 
the following way : 

Before taking up the construction of 
the annunciator it would he best to 
make a diagrammatic drawing of the 
circuit in which the annunciator is to 
operate. The simplest circuit that will 
require an annunciator is one where the 
bell may he operated from either of 
two push buttons. In this case the an- 
nunciator must he constructed to give 
only two indications. Fig. 1 shows how 
the various elements of such a circuit 
may he connected. 1'. is an ordinary vi- 
brating electric hell. Ml and M2 are 
the two electromagnets of the annun- 
ciator, A is a battery of several dry 
cells, and PI and P2 are the push hut- 
tons from either of which the bell may 
be operated. 

When the push button PI is pressed 
the circuit is completed through the 
winding of the magnet All and its core 
becomes magnetized. In a similar 
manner the core of the magnet M2 be- 
comes magnetized when the push hut- 
ton P2 is pressed and the circuit com- 
pleted through the winding of the mag- 
net M2. 

If an iron armature, that is supported 
by a shaft through its center and 
properly balanced, he placed near the 
ends of the cores of Ml and M2, as 
shown in Fig. 2, it may assume the 
position indicated by either the full or 
dotted lines, depending upon which of 
the magnets, All <»r M2, was last mag- 
netized. The position of this armature 



will serve to indicate the push button 
from which the bell was operated. The 
magnets should he placed inside a case 
and the indication may be made by a 
pointer attached to the shaft, support- 
ing the armature. 

If you are able to secure the electro- 
magnets from a discarded electric bell 
they will work fine for the magnets Ml 
and M2. They should be disconnected 
from their iron support and mounted 
upon some non-magnetic material, such 
as brass or copper, making the dis- 
tance between their centers as small as 
possible. The piece of metal upon 
which the magnets are mounted should 
now be fastened, by means of two wood 
screws, to the back of the board, shown 
in Fig. (>, that is to form the face of 
the annunciator. It should be about 
l/g in. thick, \ fa in. wide and long 
enough to extend a short distance be- 
yond the cores of the magnets Ml and 
M2. Drill a 1/1 ('.-in. hole through its 
center, as shown in Fig. 2. Drive a 
piece of steel rod into this hole, mak- 
ing sure the rod will not turn easily in 
the opening, and allow about ' •_. in. of 
the rod to project on"" one side, and 
l 1 /:; in. on the other side. 

Drill a hole in the hoard upon which 
the magnets are mounted so that when 
the long end of the rod carrying the 
armature is passed through the hole, 
the armature will be a little more than 
1/16 in. from each magnet core. The 
short end of the rod should be sup- 
ported by means of a piece of strip 
brass bent into the form shown in 
Fig. 3. 

Frill a hole in the center of this 
piece, so the rod will pass through it. 
When the armature has been put in its 
proper place, fasten this strip) to the 
board with two small wood screws. 
You may experience some difficulty 
in locating the hole in the hoard for 
the rod, and it no doubt would be best 
to drill this hole first and fasten the 
magnets in place afterwards. 

Two small collars should he fastened 
to the rod to prevent its moving end- 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



wise. Fit the collars tightly on the rod 
to hold them in place. 

Cut the lone; end of the rod off so it 
projects through the face of the an- 
nunciator about % in. Take some very 
thin sheet brass and cut out a needle or 
indicator as shown in Fig. 4. In a 
small piece of brass drill a hole so it 
will fit tight on the other end of the 
rod. Solder the indicator to this piece 
and force it in place on the end of the 
rod. 

When the armature is the same dis- 



face of the case; three whose dimen- 
sions correspond to those of Figs. 7, 
8. and 9 and are to form the lower and 
upper end of the case and the finish for 
the top. 

Secure a piece of window glass, 4^2 
in. by 3% in. that is to lie used as the 
front. Before assembling the case cut 
on the inner surface of the pieces form- 
ing the sides and the lower end, a 
groove just wide enough to take the 
glass and 1/16 in. in depth. The outer 
edge of this groove should be % in. 




Fig 7 Fig 8 

Details of the Annunciator 



tance from each core, the indicator 
should be parallel to the long dimen- 
sion of the face of the case. The case 
of the instrument may be made in 
the following way: 

Secure a piece of %-in. oak. or other 
hard wood, 3 in. wide and ;. ,1 L . ft. long. 
Then cut from this board the follow- 
ing pieces: two whose dimensions cor- 
respond to those of Fig. 5 and are to 
form the sides of the case; two whose 
dimensions correspond to those of Fig. 
6 and are to form the back and the 



from the outer edge of the frame. After 
the case is fastened together there 
should be a slot between the piece 
forming the upper end and the piece 
that serves as a finish at the top, that 
will allow the glass to be slipped into 
place. A small strip of wood should be 
tacked over this slut, after the glass is 
put in place, to prevent the dust and 
dirt from falling down inside of the 
case. 

The piece upon which the works are 
to be mounted may be fastened in place 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



by means of four round-headed brass 
screws that pass through the sides of 
the case. It should be fastened about 
x /-2 in. back of the glass front. The 
back may be fastened inside of the case 
in a similar manner. 

Cut two pieces, from some sheet 
brass, whose dimensions correspond to 
those of Fig. 10. These pieces are to 
be used in supporting the case by means 
of some small screws. Fasten three 
binding-posts, that are to form the ter- 
minals of the annunciator, on the top 
of the upper end of the case. Mark 
one of these binding-posts C and the 
other two Ll and \:l. Connect one ter- 
minal of each of the magnet windings 
to the post marked C and the other 
terminal to the posts Ll and L2. You 
can finish the case in any style you may 
desire. Oftentimes it is desirable to 
have it correspond to the finish of the 



woodwork of the room in which it is 
to be placed. The distance the point 
of the indicator will move through de- 
pends upon the distance between the 
cores of the magnets and the distance 
of the armature from these cores. These 
distances are oftentimes such that the 
indications of the cell are not very defi- 
nite. If the armature is moved too far 
from the cores there is not sufficient 
pull exerted by them when magnetized, 
to cause the position of the armature 
to change. 

Mount on the shaft carrying the ar- 
mature a small gear wheel. Arrange 
another smaller gear to engage this on 
and fasten the indicator to the shaft 
of the smaller gear. Any movement 
now of the armature shaft will re- 
sult in a relative large movement of the 
indicator shaft. Figure 11 shows the ar- 
rangement of the gears just described. 



How to Make a Steam Calliope 



Secure ten gas jet valves, the part 
of the gas fixture shown in Fig. 1, and 
prepare to place them in a piece of 
1 -in. pipe, 12 in. long. This is done 
l>v drilling and lapping in holes, each 




Details of the Calliope 



1 in. apart, in a straight line along the 
pipe. The valves screwed into these 
holes appear as shown in Fig. 2. The 
whistles are made from pipe of a dia- 
meter that will fit the valves. No di- 
mensions can be given for the exact 
lengths of these pipes as they must be 
tried out to get the tone. Cut ten 



pieces of this pipe, each one of a dif- 
ferent length, similar to the pipes on a 
pipe organ. Cut a thread on both ends, 
put a cap on the end intended for the 
top, and fit a plug in the other end. 
The plug must have a small portion of 
its side filed out, and a notch cut in the 
side of the pipe with its horizontal 
edge level with the top of the plug. 
This part of each whistle is made sim- 
ilar to making a bark whistle on a 
green stick of willow. The pipes are 
then screwed into the valves. 

The whistles may be toned by trying 
out and cutting off pieces of the pipe, 
or by filling the top end with a little 
melted lead. The 1-in. pipe must have 
a cap screwed on one end and the 
other attached to a steam pipe. The 
steam may be supplied by using an 
old range boiler, placed horizontally 
in a fireplace made of brick or sheet 
iron. If such a boiler is used, a small 
safety valve should be attached. The 
keys and valve operation are shown in 
Fig. 3. This is so plainly illustrated 
that it needs no explanation. — Contrib- 
uted by Herbert Halm, Chicago. 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



Mechanics for Young America 



Home-Made Snowshoes 

Secure four light barrel staves ami 
sandpaper the outsides smooth. Take 
two "1(1 shoes that arc extra large and 
cut off the tops and heels so as to leave 
only the toe covering fastened to the 
sole. Purchase two long book straps 
and cut them in two in the middle and 
fasten the ends on the toe covering as 
shown in Fig. 1. The straps are used 
to attach the snowshoe to the regular 
shoe. When buckling up the straps be 
sure to leave them loose enough for the 
foot to work freely, Fig. 2. Fasten the 
barrel staves in pairs leaving a space of 
! in. between them, as shown in Fig. 3, 
with thin strips of wood. Nail the old 
shoe soles to crosspieces placed one- 




F.o 3 
Made from Barrel Staves 



third of the way from < me end a 
— Contributed by David Brown 
City, Mo. 



to\\ II. 

ansas 



A Velocipede Racer 

The small hoy shown in the accom- 
panying illustration found a way to 
make a new plaything out of his old 
one. When he became tired of his old- 
fashioned velocipede and thought he 
would prefer a "racing automobile" he 
simply disconnected the front wind 
and the fork from the rear wheels by 
removing the bolt. The back part of 
the machine was turned upside down 




and the bolt replaced to join the two 
pat Is The saddle, which had been pre- 
vious!) removed, was then attached to 
the rear axle with a piece of wire and 
the "racer" was ready for use. — Con- 
tributed by C. L. Edholm, Los Angeles, 
California. 



A Substitute for a Compass 

An easy way to make a pencil com- 
pass when one is not at hand, is to take 
a knife with two blades at one end, 
open one to the full extent and the other 
only one-half way. Stick the point end 
of the full open blade into the side of a 
lead pencil and use the half-open blade 
as the center leg of the compass. Turn 




with the 
— Contr 
tor, C 



knife handle t 
ibuted l>v E. 1 



make 
. Cold 



the circle. 
, I... Vic- 



112 



POPULAR MECHANICS 

Glass Blowing and Forming 



Fortunate indeed is the boy who re- 
ceives a stuck of glass tubing, a Bun- 
sen burner, a blowpipe, and some char- 
coal for a gift, for he has a great deal 
of fun in store for himself. Glass 
blowing is a useful art to understand, 
if the study of either chemistry or 
physics is In he taken up, because much 
apparatus can he made at home. And 
fur itself alone, the forming of glass 
into various shapes has not only a good 
deal of pleasure in it. hut it trains the 
hands and the eye. 

(ilass, ordinarily brittle and hard, be- 
comes soft and pliable under heat. 
When subjected to the action of a 
flame until dull red, it bends as if made 
of putty; heated to a bright yellow, 
it is so soft that it may he blown, 
pulled, pushed or worked into any 
shape desired. Hence the necessity for 
a Bunsen burner, a device preferred 
to all others for this work, because it 
gives the hottest flame without soot or 
dirt. The Bunsen burner, as shown 
in Fig. 1, is attached to any gas bracket 
with a rubber tube, hut the flame is 
blue, Mislead of yellow, as the burner 
introduces air at its base, which mixes 
with the gas and so produces an almost 
perfect combustion, instead of the par- 
tial combustion which results in the 
ordinary yellow flame. All gas stoves 
have Bunsen burners, and many oil 
•~t< ives. 

If gas is not available, an alcohol 
lamp with a large wick will do almost 
as well. The blowpipe, shown in Fig. 
2, is merely a tube of brass with the 
smaller end at right angles to the pipe, 
and a fine tip to reduce the size of the 
blast, which is used to direct a small 
flame. Besides these tools, the lTiss 
worker will need some round sticks of 
charcoal, sharpened like a pencil, as 
shown in Fig. .'!. a file, and several 
lengths of German glass tubing. 

To bend a length of the tubing, let 
it be assumed for the purpose of mak- 
ing a syphon, it i> only necessary to 
ci irk one end of the tube and heat it 
near the top of the Bunsen flame, turn- 
ing the tubing constantly to make it 



heat evenly on all sides, until it is a 
dull red in color. It will then bend of 
its own weight if held in one hand, 
but to allow it to do so is to make a 
flat place in the bend. The heating 
should he continued until the red color 
is quite bright, when the open end of 
the tube is put in the mouth and a 
little pressure of air made in the tube 
by blowing. At the same time, the 
tube is bent, steadily but gently. The 
compressed air in the tube prevents it 
from collapsing during the process. 

To make a bulb on the end of a 
tube, one end must be closed. This is 
easily done by heating as before, and 
then pulling the tube apart as shown 
in Fig. 4. The hot glass will draw, 
just like a piece of taffy, each end 
tapering to a point. This point on one 
length is successively heated and 
pressed toward and into the tube, by 
means of a piece of charcoal, until the 
end is not only closed, but as thick as 
the rest of the tube, as in Fig. 5. An 
inch or more is now heated white hot, 
tlie tube being turned continually to 
assure even heating anil to prevent the 
lmt end from bending down by its own 
weight. When very hot, a sudden puff 
into the open end of the tube will ex- 
pand the hot glass into a bulb, as in 
Fig. 6. These can be made of con- 
siderable size, and. if not too thin, 
make very good flasks (Fig. 7) for 
physical experiments. The base of the 
bulb should be flattened by setting it, 
still hot. on a flat piece of charcoal, so 
that it will stand alone. 

To weld two lengths of glass tubing- 
together, heat the end of a tube and 
insert the point of a piece of charcoal 
in the opening, and twirl it about until 
the end of the tube has a considerable 
flare. Do the same to the end of the 
other tube, which is to be joined to the 
first, and then, heating both to a dull 
red. let them touch and press lightly 
together as in Fig. S. As soon as they 
are well in contact, heat the two joined 
flares together, very hot, and, pulling 
slightly, the flares will flatten out and 
the tube be perfectly joined. Tubes 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



joined without previous flaring have a 
constricted diameter at the joint. 

To make a T-joint in two pieces of 
tubing, it is necessary to make a hole 
in the side of one piece, as shown at 
A in Fig. 9. This is accomplished by 
the aid of the principle of physics that 
gases expand when heated. Both ends 
of the tube, which sin mid be cold, are 
corked tightly. The whole is then 
gradually warmed by being held near 
the flame. When warm, a small flame 
is directed by the blowpipe from the 
Bunsen tlame to a spot on one side of 



attraction, water or other liquid rising 
in them when they are plunged into it, 
are made by heating as long a section 
of tubing as can be handled in the 
flame — 2 in. will be found enough — 
and, when very hot. giving the ends a 
sudden vigorous pull apart. The tube 
pulls out and <;ets smaller and smaller 
as it does so, until at last it breaks. 
But the fine thread of glass so made 
is really a tube, and not a rod, as 
might be supposed. This can be dem- 
onstrated by blowing through it at 
a gas flame, or by immersing it in 



<C 




IX: 




1 


"A 


i n 


^B 


1 1 1 


i n 


^ 


'1 1 1 



-p-AlR INLET 

01 , Gas inlet rj 



sit 



Glass Blowing and Forming 



the closed tube. As it heats, the air 
within the tube expands and becomes 
compressed, and as soon as the lu>t 
spot on the side of the tube is soft 
enough, the confined air blows out, 
pushing the hoi glass aside as it does 
so, leaving a small puncture. This is 
to be enlarged with pointed charcoal 
until it also flares as shown at B. This 
flare is then connected to the flared 
end of a Straight tube, C, and the T- 
joint. D, is complete. 

Using the blowpipe is not difficult. 
The lips and cheeks should be pulled 
out with a mouthful of air, which is 
ample to blow a (lame while the lungs 
are being refilled. In this way, it is 
possible to use the blowpipe steadily, 
and not intermittently, as is necessary 
if the lungs alone are the "bellows." 

Small glass funnels, such as are used 
in many chemical operations, are made 
by first forming a bulb, then punctur- 
ing the bulb at the top, when hot, with 
a piece of charcoal, and smoothing 
down or flaring the edges. Very small 
and fine glass tubes, such as are used 
in experiments to demonstrate capillary 



colored liquid. The solution will be 
seen to rise some distance within the 
tube, the amount depending on the 
diameter of the tube. 

The file is for cutting the glass tub- 
ing into lengths convenient to handle. 
It should be a t luce-cornered tile, of 
medium fineness, and is used simply to 
nick the glass at the place it is de- 
sired to cut it. The two thumb- are 
then placed beneath the tube, one on 
each side of the nick, and the tube 
bent, as if it were plastic, at the same 
lime pulling the hands apart. The tube 
will break off squarely at the mil.. 
without difficulty. 

The entire outfit may be purchased 
from any dealer in chemical or physical 
apparatus, or any druggist will order 
it. Enough tubing to last many days, 
the Bunsen burner, blowpipe, file and 
charcoal should not exceed $2 in cost. 



The addition of cadmium to soft 
solder composed of tin and lead, lowers 
its melting point and increases its 
strength. 



114 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



A NOVEL BURGLAR ALARM 

Will Ring an Electric Bell, Flash an Electric Light, Shoot a 
Pistol Four Times and Call the Police 



A burglar alarm which will do all of 
these things may be made at small cost 
and with very little labor. Secure a 
piece of hard wood, a part of a tobacco 
box is best, about 8 or 1<) in. square. 
Cut a round piece like Fig. 1 out of it 
and on one edge cut a notch as at C. 
Take a strip of hard wood about 1 in. 
thick, shape it like B, Fig. 1, and nail 
it securely to the round piece. At A 
make a hole large enough to run a 
20-penny nail through. 

Saw off 3 or l in. of the large end of 




,^01" ' 



Construction of Un 



an old baseball bat, make a hole 
through this also and nail it to the back 
of Fig. 1. The 20-penny nail should 
pass thn iugb the hole at A. through the 
hole in the bat, and project far enough 
to drive into the wall. It should be fas- 
tened either to the wall in the room 
or the back hall. 

Figure 3 consists of a piece of ball 
bat, C, fastened to a strong cord, B, 
which has a weight. A, fastened to the 
other end. This is to be wound up on 
the piece of bat, C. 

Shape a piece of wood like Fig. 4, 
about 6 in. long. Make two holes A 



and B in it. The short arm of this 
piece is to project over the end of B, 
Fig. 1, and act as a trigger to keep the 
weight, A, Fig. 3, from dropping until 
wanted. The lower end of Fig. 4 is 
to be securely fastened to a piece of 
wood projecting from the wall so the 
short arm will slip over the end of B, 
Fig. 1. Now fasten a string in the 
hole. A, Fig. I, and run the string to 
the doors and windows. You can run a 
dozen or more strings to the hole, A. 
The best way is to put a hook, or eye, 
Rear 




in the door facing on one side of the 
door and a hook on the other side. 
Make a short hook out of a piece of 
hay wire and attach it to the end of the 
string. At night hook the end of string 
attached to trigger in eye on one side 
of door facing, draw it in front of door 
and put through the eye on other door 
facing. Leave the screen or other door 
unlocked and if any one attempts to go 
through the door he will put the ma- 
chinery to work and get a "warm re- 
ception." The string should be about 
2 ft. above the floor. 

Remove the trigger guard from a 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



115 



double-acting cheap revolver, and fas- 
ten it so when the weight, A. runs 
down, the piece, P>, Fig. 1, will strike 
the trigger and fire the pistol. Blank 
cartridges <"//v should be used. They 
will prove effectual as the burglar will 
hardly stop to investigate. 

Take a small block of wood, B, Fig. 
2, and fasten two springs on it so that 
they will nearly touch. Fasten this 
block of wood so when the weight is 
wound up the springs will he in the 
m itch, C. Fig. 1. When the weight falls 
the springs will lie pressed together, 
thus ringing the electric hell and fur- 
nishing an electric light. If you haw.' 
no electric lights in the house, yet a 
small electric hand lantern. The lull 
and light may both be connected on the 
same circuit. Fig. 2 shows how this is 
done: A A, are the springs; 1'.. block 

of w 1; C C C C, wire-; D, hell; K. 

lamp; F, batteries; <; (, I '. G, screws 
to which the wires are attached. 

Now in addition, if you want to call 
the police, get a small, cheap phon- 
i igraph and a record w ith " I '< ilii e," 
"Fire," "Murder," or anything else on 
it you wish. Make anything you 
please on it. Place it directly in front 
of your telephone transmitter and con- 
nect it with Fig. 1, and also connect the 
receiver of the phone with Fig. 1, so 
that when the weight falls it will start 
the phonograph and at the same time 
will drop the receiver of] it- hook-, 
consequently calling the police. Any 
one with a little ingenuity can connect 
the phonograph, and the receiver of 
the telephone so that when the weight 
falls they will do their part. 

It will cost very little to make this 
and it will prove a sure protection. If 
you w isli you can leave off calling the 
police, ringing the hell and flashing the 
light and only have it tire the pistol. 



Loosening Salt in a Shaker 

If a common salt shaker is filled to 
the top, the -alt sometimes becomes 
damp and so closel) packed that it can 
not he shaken through the perforated 
cap. This can he remedied by placing 
a piece of non-corrosive metal or hard- 



wood in the center of the shaker and 
attaching a small thumbpiece on the 
end through the center hole of the 
shaker cap. The upright is provided 
with two cross-pins at the bottom, two 
at the center, and one at the top, close 
to the holes in the metal cap. The salt 





For Loosening Salt 

can l>e loosened by rotating the upright 
with the thumbpiece. 

Keeping Matches Dry 

The camper knows how difficult it is 
to keep a supply of matches dry. I 
have found the following very simple 
3s to he invaluable in such cases. 
Take some paraffin and melt it in a 
shallow pan in a water hath. Immerse 
the ordinary friction matches in it for 
an instant, withdraw, allow to cool, 
and the matches will have a thin coat 
of paraffin which protects them from 
water. I have left a match so pro- 
tected in a basin of water for half a 
dav and then lighted it by striking in 
the usual way.— < ontributed by Arvid 
W. Andersi m. ( mtaha, Nebr. 

How to Repair Tungsten Lamps 

Turn the lamp into a socket which is 
attached to a flexible cord, switch on 
the current, and hold the lamp so that 
you can see the broken ends inside of 
the ylass. Gently shake the globe so 
the ends will come in contact. This 
will cause the lain]) to light and the 
ends will often fuse together. — Con- 
tributed by R. P. Small, 1 Vtroit. Mich. 



\ crumpled wire may he quickly 
straightened by catching one end in a 

vise and giving the other several hard 
jerks, using pliers to hold the wire 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



TELEGRAPH CODES 

morse, used in the united states and canada. 
CONTINENTAL,used in Europe and elsewhere, 
phillipsused in the united states for"press"work. 



Dash -2 dots. Long dash -A dots. 
Space between elements of a letter -I dot 
Space between letters of a word -2 dots. 
Interval in spaced letters =2 dots 

Space between words -3 dots. 

LETTERS 
Morse Continental 
A 

E- 

H 



PUNCTUATION, ETC. 

Morse Continental 




. Period 

: Colon — 

^Semicolon 

, Comma 

? Interrogation — 

! Exclamation — 

Fraction line 

-Hyphen 

'Apostrophe 

£ PoundSterling 

•B Paragraph — 

Italics or underline 

( )Parentheses 

C ] Brackets ) 

""Quotation marks) 



Phillips 



Min. Minute. 
Msgr Messenger 
Msk. Mistake 
No. Number. 
Nre. Nothing. 
N.M.No more. 
O.K. All right. 
Ofs. Office. 
Opr. Operator 



. Period - 

: Colon 

■.— Colon dash 

; Semicolon -- 

, Comma 

? Interrogation 

'. Exclamation ■ 

Fraction line 

-Dash ■ 

-Hyphen 

£ Pound Sterling 

/ Shi/ling mark 

B> Dollar mark - 

d Pence 

Capitalized letter- - - -■ 

Colon followed by) 

quotation :" ) 

c Cents 

. Decimal point 

<B Paragraph 

Italics or underline 

( ) Parentheses 

LI Brackets 

" ''Quotation marks 

Quotation within) 

a quotation"' ' ") 

Abbreviations in Common Use 

Sig Signature. Co Company. 

Po. Paid D.H. Deadhead 

Qk. Quick. Ex Express 
GBAGive better address Frt. Freight. 

Bn. Been. Fr From 

Bat. Battery. GA Go Ahead. 

Bbl. Barrel. P.O. Post Office 

Col Collect. PPT. Repeat 



Tw To-morrow. 
Tom. Telegram. 
Tkt. Ticket. 
Re. Receive. 
Ml. Mail 
Lat. Latitude. 
Deg. Degree.. 
An. Answer 



Ck Check. 



Hqrs Headquarters. Exa. Extra 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



117 



How to Make a Cruising Catamaran 



A launch is much safer than a sail- 
ing boat, yet there is not the real sport 
to be derived from it as in sailing. 
Herein is given a description of a sail- 
ing catamaran especially adapted for 
those who desire to sail 'and have a 
safe craft. The main part of the craft 
is made from two boats or pontoons 
with watertight tops, bottoms and 
sides and fixed at a certain distance 
apart with a platform on top for the 
passengers. Such a craft cannot be 
capsized easily, and, as the pontoons 
are watertight, it will weather almost 
any rough water. If the craft is in- 
tended fur rough waters, care must be 
taken to make the platform pliable yet 
stiff and as narrow as convenient to 
take care of the rocking movements. 

This catamaran has been designed to 
simplify the construction, and, if a 
larger size than the dimensions shown 
in Fig. 1 is desired, the pontoons may 
be made longei 1>\ using two boards 
end to end and putting battens on the 
inside over the joint. Each pontoon 
is made i if t w< > bi iards 1 in. thick, 1 1 in. 
wide and Hi ft. long, dressed and cut 
Id the shape shewn in Fig. 2. Spread- 
ers are cut from 2-in. planks, 10 in. 
wide and 1 2 in. long, and placed 6 ft. 
apart between the board sides and fast- 
ened with screws. White lead should 
he put in the joints before turning in 
the screws. Cul the ends of the boards 
SO they will tit perfectly and make 
pointed ends to the pontoons as shown 



Turn this shell upside down and lay 
a board Vi; '"• thick, 12 in. wide and 16 
ft. long on the edges of the sides, mark 




Completed Boat 

on the under side the outside line of 
the shell and cut to shape roughly. See 
that the spreaders and sides lit true all 
over, then put white lead on the joint 
and nail with 1%-in. finishing nails as 
close as possible without weakening 
the wood. Slightly stagger the nails 
in the sides, the I in. side hoards will 
allow for this, trim off the sides, turn 
the box over and paint the joints and 







Details of the Pon 



in Fi^. 3, and fit in a wedge shaped ends of the spreaders, giving them two 

piece; white lead the joints and fasten or three coats and let them dry. 

well with screws. Try each compartment for leaks by 



118 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



turning water in them one at a time. 
ISore a %-in. hole through each 
spreader in the center and through the 






Crosspiece and Rudder Details 

bottom board as shewn. The top 
board, which is ' j-in. thick, L2 in. wide 
and 16 ft. Inns;, is put on the same as 
the both mi. 

After finishing both pontoons in this 
way place them parallel. A block of 
wood is fastened on top of each pon- 
toon and exactly over each spreader on 
which to bolt the crosspieces as shown 
in Fig. I. Each block is cut to the 
shape and with the dimensions shown 
in Fig. 5. 

The crosspieces are made from hick- 
ory or ash and each piece is 2 ] '-j in. 
thick, 5 in. wide and li 1 '- ft. long. Bore 
a %-in. hole :: in, from each end 
through the 5-in. way of the wood. 
Take maple flooring : V, in. thick, li in. 
wide, 1'-\ ] » in. long and fasten with 
large screws and washers to the cross- 
pieces and put battens across every IS 
in. Turn the flooring and crosspieces 
upside down and fasten to the pon- 
toons with long %-in. bolts put 



through the spreaders. Put a washer 
on the head of each bolt and run them 
through from the under side. Place a 
thick rubber washer under and on top 
of each crosspiece at the ends as shown 
in Fig. 4. This will make a rigid yet 
flexible joint for rough waters. The 
flooring being placed on the under side 
of the crosspieces makes it possible to 
get the sail boom very low. The sides 
put on and well fastened will greatly 
assist in stiffening the platform and 
help it to stand the racking strains. 
These side:', will also keep the water 
and spray out and much more so if a 
12-in. dash is put on in front on top 
i if the en isspiece. 

The rudders are made as shown in 
Fig. 6, by using an iron rod % in. in 
diameter and 2 ft. long for the bearing 
of each. This rod is split with a hack- 
saw for " in. of its length and a sheet 
metal plate 3 '■'■'2 in. thick, 6 in. wide. 
and 1".' in. long inserted and riveted in 
the split. This will allow % in. of the 
iron rod to project from the bottom 
edge of the metal through which a hole 
is drilled for a cotter pin. The bottom 
bracket is made from stake iron bent in 
the shape of a V as shown, the rudder 
bearing passing through a hole drilled 
in the upper leg and resting on the 
lower. Slip the top bracket on and 
then bend the top end of the bearing 
rod at an angle as shown in both Figs. 
6 and 7. Connect the two bent ends 
with a crosspiece which has a hole 
drilled in its center to fasten a rope as 
shown in Fig. 1. 

Attach the mast to the front cross- 
piece, also bowsprit, bracing them both 
to the pontoons. A set of sails having 
.about 300 sq. ft. of area will be about 
right for racing. Two sails, main and 
fore, of about 175 to 200 sq. ft. will be 
sufficient for cruising. — Contributed 
by J. Appleton, Des Moines, Iowa. 



Rough alligator finished photograph 
mounts will not receive a good impres- 
sion from a die. If a carbon paper is 
placed on the mounts before making 
the impression, a good clear imprint 
will be tin- result, 



POPULAR MECHANICS 
How to Train a Dog 

C. H. Claudy 
He's a good dog, a nice dog, we'll rather loosely with st tin 



admit at the outset, but he doesn't know 
much about minding you, does he? 
He'll come when you call him, because 
he knows v< iur voice and 1. w es you, but 
he won't go when you send him. lie 
cannot understand why you don't want 
him! As to fetching or carrying, or 
guarding, or lying down, or rolling 
over, or "playing dead," or standing up 
and begging, or carrying a message or 
anything like that — 

"Well, he never was taught those 
things!" you say, indignantly. 

But il, when you grew up, you 
couldn't read nor write nor talk, and 
some one said of you in defense, "Well, 
he never was taughl those things!" 
in that same indignant tone, on whom 
would the reflection he, you or your 
parents ? 

It is an easy matter to teach a dot; 
almosl anything. There is only one 
principle to master. A dog's mind re- 
sponds to the elementary moral law of 
reward and punishment. But, just as 
you don't expert your mother to punish 
your baby sister when she flings liei 
rattle and breaks something, so you 
mustn't punish a pup for doing some- 
thing he doesn't know is wrong, or fail- 
ing to do something which he hasn't 
mastered. Punishment should be rare, 
and only for disobedience, nevei foi 
failure to understand. that is the 
whole thing in a nutshell. 

For instance, your dog, just past the 

wobbly leg stage of puppyh I. will 

take anything in his mouth which he 
can get in it. along with a good many 
things which look entirely too big for 
mastication. Again, he will run after 
anything that moves, a hall, a stick, a 
stone. lie has in his mind the desire 
to do the first hall of tin- act of fetch- 
ing. All you have to do is to get into 

his head the Other half, the idea that 
what he runs after and picks up must 
l>e broughl i' i you. 

To do this requires some stout cord, 
a collar, some stale bread soaked in 
gravy, a soft hall made of rags wound 



ittle time 
every day, and a whole lot of patience 
and good nature. 

Fasten the collar on the dog and the 
string to the collar. Roll the ball away 
anil let the pup have his head. Ile'il 
chase it and mouth it— and drop it! 

Get the ball yourself, and roll it 
again, saying, "Fetch it, Dan!" (or 
whatever his name is. ) 

Let him have his head again. When 
he picks the ball up in his mouth, give 
a gentle pull on the string. I he 

chances are a hundred to one he'll drop 
the ball again. But the mere repetition 
of the rolling ball, the word-, "Fetch it, 
Dan," and the pulling of the string 
will, repeated day after day, make an 
impression. Some day the ball will 
either stay in Dan's mouth when he 
brings up at the end of the cord and 
returns to you. because his teeth have 
caught on the I wine wound around the 
ball, or he will turn towards you with it 
in his mouth before the pull on the cord 
reminds him. Then, bread and gravy 
in quantities ! 

It may be several days before this 
happens again, or it may be in the 
next five minutes. Some dogs learn 
much more quickly, and much younger, 
than other dogs. Thus, a fox terrior 
gels his first growth long before a 
mast iff, and so can be taught earlier. 
But it will happen again, and the con- 
stant commands, cord pullings, and 
gravy rewards will accomplish their 
purpose. Dan will learn that for some 
inscrutable reason, when that ball stays 
in his mouth until you take it out, bread 
and gravy results' And, once this is 
learned, a pat and a kind word satisfy 
him in place of the gravy ! 

The dog who answers to his name 
and can fetch for you can be taught 
anything. Me has learned that reward 
follows certain things he does. Never 
let linn forget it. Always reward the 
mastery of a new trick with something 
to eat, the performance of an old one 
with a pat and a word, and use the 



POPULAR MECHANICS 



whip only for disobedience, and then, 
sparingly. 

Il is undeniable that a dog can be 
taught more quickly by fear than by 
patience, but mure is sacrificed than is 
gained. You would not care to have a 
dog win 'so tail went between his legs 
every time he sav\ you coming, would 
yon? Hardly. The hearty, doggish 
greeting, the barks and yelps of wel- 
come, are worth more than the little 
patience you must use to teach him 
without the whip. So, when you get 
t<i the poinl where \ r ou want Dan to 
stand on his hind legs and beg, don'l 
follow the advice of some books and 
whip his ii ire h'^s, "sting them," as one 
book puts it, until ho raises them. The 
hotter way is to put him in position 
with his paws resting on a ledge, a 
stool, a table Or step, until he will take 
the position at the word of command, 
and then teach him again, making him 
use 1ml niie forepaw as a support, and 
yet again, with that paw iii your hand, 
and finally, by gently balancing him 
yourself and letting go that paw, t<i 
stand alone, or "beg," as the command 
usually goes. Ami, as you love your 
dog, don'l keep him sitting or "beg- 
ging" too long, especially at Inst, for 
his muscles will tire and ache al un- 
accustomed positions and exercises, 
jusl as will yours. And his frame isn't 
made to he supported that way iii com 
fort for long, any more than you could 
It comfortable for more than a minute 
hanging by your hands. 

Teaching Man to lie down when he 
is told is merely a matter of the com- 
mand, followed by pressing hint to the 
earth and holding him there until you 
say, "Get up." The practice, borrowed 



In im trainers i if heavier animals, of rop- 
ing a dog's front foot and throwing 
him, should never he used. The gentle 
means is just as g( »>d. 

Teaching him to mil over is the 
same — -roll him over when you tell him 
to roll until he rolls himself, and "play- 
ing dead" is hut instructing him, by 
the same means, to lie on his hack", all 
lour legs up in the air, and motionless. 

Learning to "guard" is hut a doub- 
ling of "fetch it" and "lie down." If. 
lying down, he drops the object, put it 
between his paws. After a while, lie 
will put ii there. Then go off and leave 
him for short periods, and don't let him 
get up and walk oil' until you reappear 
and tell him he may. A dog has so 
much intelligence, once it is started, 
that il won't take the idea long to get 
into his head that this lying down busi- 
ness, with a hall between his paws, 
means something. He ma} never know' 
n'hat it means, hut he won't question 
it further than to know that he is doing 
what you want. 

Finally, get some one else to take 
the hall away. If this can he done, it 
is your turn to come and ask' Man for 
it, and turn away from him. lie won't 
like it. and he'll try to find out why. 
Tried again, immediately, and the same 
result may occur, hut some time, and 
soon, he who tries to take that hall 
away will he met with a growl— and the 
less, m is learned. 

It is a pleasant pastime, teaching 
a dot;, and the hoy who can do it, and 
at the i-iid of a month has some tricks 
to show, an unused whip, and a dog 
which still worships him, is a pretty 
good sort of a hoy — the sort of a boy 
a di il; likes t( . have as master ! 




CONTENTS 



Aeroplane, Taper, How lo Make 15 

Alarm, Flectric, Rings Bell and Turns mi Light 25 

Alarm, Novel Burglar Ill 

Alarm, Simple Burglar, How to Make 58 

Alarm, Simple Fire. How to Make 4!> 

Annealing chisel Steel 52 

Annunciator, How to Construct 108 

Automobile, Two Boys Build 105 

Balloons, Taper. How to Make 88 

Barrel Moat for Sailing 42 

Batteries, Cheap l>ry, How to Obtain 102 

Batteries, l>ry, Another Way to Renew r,s 

Batteries, Dry, Renewing 57 

Batteries, I>ry. To Renew 93 

Batter; Motor, Small, Reversing 97 

Batter; Motor, Toy, To Make l.irt Weight. . 80 

Bell, Kinging by Touching Gas Jet 95 

Bicycle Frame, Enameling 75 

Bicycle, Trailer for 89 

Bicycle, Water, How to Make 2.1 

Binder, Magazine. To Make 98 

Blowpipe, Home-Made 43 

Roat. Barrel, for Sailing 42 

Boat Cruising Catamaran, How to Make... 117 

Roat. Ice, 1 low to Build 47 

Roat. Taper. How to Make 5 

Boating, Ice 72 

Bobsled, Home. Made Yankee 100 

Rooks, How to Carry 101 

Rottle, Diving 19 

Rottle Pushers 101 

Bottles, To Remove Glass Stoppers from.... so 

Bronze Liquid, Oood 15 

Bulb, To Make on Glass Tube 8 

Rnrglar Alarm, Novel Ill 

Burglar Alarm. Simple, How to Make 58 

Burnt Wood Work Done by Son 19 

Calliope, Steam, How to Make. . 110 

C '' Practical, for Fifty Cents 55 

Cameras, Box, Home Marie Duplicator for. . r.:i 

Camps and How to Build Them 29 

Candlestick. Water 98 

Cannon. Lead. How to Make 26 

Canvas. How to Waterproof 20 

Card-Case, How to Make ,'!8 

Catamaran. Cruising, Hew to Make 117 

Cats. How to Rid Your Yard of 103 

Chain, Novelty. Made from n Match (17 

Chisel Steel. Annealing 52 

Clock, Noveltv for the Kitchen 50 

Clerk. Old, TTso for 57 

Coaster. Home Made Overhead Trolley 77 

Coronnut. To Rreak Open 1 H 

Coin and Tumbler Trick 68 

Coin Purse, How to Make 44 

Compass. Substitute for Ill 

Copp.r Picture Frame. Etched, How to Make. 106 

Corks. How to Fit 58 

Crossbow and Arrow Sling. How to Make. ... 27 

Crutch, Home-Made 59 

Dark Room Lantern, Temporary 28 

DIabolo 68 

Diving Rottle 10 

Dog, How to Train 119 

Dry Batteries, Another Way to Renew 68 

Drv Batteries, Cheap, How to obtain 102 

Dry Butteries, Old, To Renew 98 

nrv Batteries, Renewing 57 

Dumb-Belle, How to Make 1.1 

Duplicator, Home-Made. for Box CameraB. ... 63 



Easel, How to Make 107 

Elderberry Huller, Home .Made g 

Electric Engine, How to Build 69 

Electric Motor, Another ;>:t 

Elecl rlc Motor. Novel 85 

Electric Piano, To Make 35 

Electric Wires, Flexible, Adjuster for 76 

Electrical Experiment, Interesting 07 

Enameling a Bicycle Frame 75 

Engine Electric, iiow to Build 69 

Eyes, Opening 105 

Pan, Inexpensive Wooden, How to Make 20 

Film Washing Trough 19 

Films, Drying 104 

Finger. Removing Tlght-Flttlng Ring from. .. , :, 1 

Fire Alarm, Simple, How to Make 40 

Fire Extinguisher, Home-Made 39 

Fishing, Jug Fine 12 

Fishing Signals 70 

Fishing Tackle, How to Make 16 

Fisherman, '•.lumping .lack." How to Make.... 70 

Floor Polisher, Home-Made rtK 

Flower Stand. Ornamental Iron 4:i 

Frosting, To Keep Window Class from 44 

Furnace Regulator, Electric, How to Make. . . 78 

Funnel. Emergency Class 104 

Game Bottle Pushers 101 

Gas Jet, Ringing Hell by Touching 95 

Gaslight, To Llghl Without Matches 84 

Class mowing and Forming 112 

Class Funnel. Emergency 104 

Class, To Keep from Frosting 4 1 

Class Tube, How to Make a Bulb on 8 

Hammock. How to Make 102 

Hand. How to See Through 18 

Hang Heavy Things on Nail, To 7 

Hectograph, How to Make m 

Ice Boat. How to Build 47 

Ice Boating 72 

Illusion, Another Optical 86 

Illusion. Rolling Uphill 61 

Illusions. Optical 64 

Indicator, Electrically Operated, for wind 

Vane 3fl 

Insulating Cleats. Substitute for 36 

insolation on Wire, Removing 98 

Iron Flower Stand. Ornamental 4,'l 

Iron Work. Ornamental, Easy Designs In 60 

Jig Saw Puzzle, Photographic 51 

Jug Line Fishing y> 

Kerosene. Use In Polishing Metals 64 

Kites of Many Kinds and How to Make Them, 81 

Lamp, Quickly Made 15 

Damps, To Make Burn Brightly 54 

Damps. Tungsten. How to Repair 115 

Lantern, Home Made Magic 14 

Lantern, Temporary Dark Room 28 

Lathe, Wood-Turning, Making Out of Old s,w- 

lng-Machlne 95 

Leaf. Photograph on 52 

Library Set in Tyro Carving 09 

Lock. Window 89 

Magazine Binder. To Make 98 

Magic Lantern, Home-Made 14 

Match. Novelty Chain Made from 67 

Matches, Keeping Dry 115 



122 



Merry-Go-Round, To Build 49 

.Metal. Sheet, Sawing 103 

Metals, Dse of Kerosene in Polishing 54 

Microscope, Small. How to Make 10(1 

Morse Code 116 

Motor, Another Electric 93 

Motor, N'ov.l Elect ri<- 85 

Motor. Small Battery, Reversing 07 

Motor. Toy Battery, To Make Lift Weight.... 80 

Motors. Water, How to Make 40 

Mouse Trap 85 

Nail, To Hans Heavy Things on 7 

Necktie Holder, Home-Made 50 

Negatives, Restoring Broken 67 

Optical illusion, Another 36 

Optical Illusions 54 

Paint Running 28 

Paint, Sealed 53 

Taper Boat, How to Make 5 

Paste, Adhesive 42 

Perfui Making Outfit 53 

Phoneidoscope 99 

Photograph Mounts. Alligator 11 s 

Photograph on Leaf 52 

Photographic .1 Ig Sav, Puzzle 51 

Photographs, Making on Watch Dials to 

Photography — Drying Films 104 

Photography — Film Washing Trough 19 

Piano, Electric, To Make 35 

Picture frame. Etched Copper, How to Make 106 

Plating Outfit, Small Silver. How to Make... 50 

Polisher, Home-Made Floor 38 

Polishing Metals. Use of Kerosene in 54 

Post Card Holder, How to Make 53 

Propelling Vehicles, Mow to Make 94 

Pulley, Grooved, Made from Sheet Tin 104 

Purse, Coin, How to Make 44 

Puzzle, Photographic Jig-Saw 51 

Puzzle. Wire. Simply Made 68 

Pyro-Carving, Library Set in 99 

Babbit Trap 85 

Rat Exterminator, Electric 4 s 

Rat Trap 85 

Ring, Tight-Fitting. Re vins from Finger... 51 

poller Skates, II Made 70 

Rubber Stamps. How to Make 83 

Sailomobile, How to Make 10 

Sails. Skater's 71 

Stilt. Loosening in a Shaker 115 

Sawing Sheet Metal 103 

Sconce, How to Make S 

Searchlight. Small, How to Make 24 

See Through Hand, How to 

Settee Homo Made 

Sewing Bag, How to Make 

Sewing-Machine. Old, Making W 1-Turnln 

Pall "!' . 

Silver Plating Outfit, Small. How to Make. . . 

Skat. r'S Sails 

Skates, Home-Made Roller 



is 



P.", 



Skis. Norwegian 74 

Sled. Toboggan, How to Make 74 

Sleds ami Chair Sleighs, To Build 73 

Sleigh, Running 70 

Sling, Crossbow and Arrow. How to Make... 27 

Snowshoes, Home-Made Ill 

Steam Turbine. How to Make ss 

Steam Turbine, Miniature. How to Make 12 

Steamboat Model, Simple 4.", 

Steel. Chisel. Annealing 52 

Street tar Line, Imitation. How to Build 04 

Telegraph and Teh]. hone Line. Combination . . 20 
Telegraph Instrument and Buzzer, How to 

Make 22 

Telegraphy- -Morse Code lit! 

Telephone and Telegraph Line. Combination.. 20 

Telephone Tra tismi 1 1 or. Home Made 00 

Telescope, Water. How to Make 102 

Tent, Bell, How to Make Of. 

Tent. Quickly Made fawn 90 

Tents, Weatherproofing for 70 

Tin. Sheet. Grooved Pulley Made from 104 

Toboggan Sled. How p. Make 74 

Trailer for a Bicycle so 

Trap for Rabbits. Rats and Mice 85 

Trick, foin and Tumbler 08 

Trick— Diving Bottle 19 

Trolley Coaster, Home-Made Overhead 77 

Trousers Hanger, How to Make 50 

Tungsten Lamps, How to Repair 115 

Turbine Engine, How to Make 45 

Turbine, Miniature Steam. How P, Make 12 

Turbine, Simple Steam. lion- to Make 88 

Vane. Wind, Electrically Operated Indicator 

for 36 

Vehicli — How to Make a Wind Propeller.... 107 

Vehicle, Propelling, How to Make 04 

Vehicli — Sailomobile 10 

Velocipede Racer Ill 

Velocipede, Winter 70 

Ventriloquist, Mechanical, Hon- to Make. . . 00 

Vise. Home-Made 28 

Watch Dials. Making Photographs on 76 

Water Bicycle, How to Make 23 

Water Candlestick '-is 

Water in Pipes. Freezing 101 

Water Motors, How to Make 411 

Water Telescope. How to Make 102 

Water Wl 1, How to Make 64 

Weatherproofing for Tents 70 

Wind Propeller. How to Make 107 

Wind Vane, Electrically Operated Indicator for 30 

Windmill for Practical Purposes. To Build. ... 91 

Windmill. Miniature. How to Make 21 

Window I.oek 89 

Winter Sport. Devices for. How to Make 70 

Wire Puzzle. Simply Made OS 

Wires. Flexible Electric, Adjuster for 76 

X-Ray Experiment 615 

Yacht, Model, How to Build 86 




Popular Mechanics Practical Books 

= Written So You Can Understand Them = 



25 CENT INDUSTRIAL HANDBOOK SERIES 
No. 1 . Mission Furniture, How to Make It— Part 1 

This is Number 1 of the Popular Mechanii s25-cenl Series oi Industrial Handbooks. It t. lis plainly how to make 
twenty-one different articles of Mission Furniture, the instructions being accompanied by working drawings and 
hall tones of the finished articles. % pages, cloth cover. Price 25 cents. 

No. 2. Metal Spinning 

By PROF. F. D. CRAWSHAW, Assistant Dean, College of Engineering, University of Illinois. 

This bock consists of practical instructions in this fascinating art. and is the only book published on tins interest 
me subjei i. \\ ritten by a man well qualified on account of Ins thorough studv <>l all obtainable information . ,,n- 
cerning same. A working manual both fur those who desire to spin metal 
work as a trade. SO pages, cloth cover. 33 illustrations. 

OUR NEW BOOK JUST FROM THE PRESS 

Pattern-Making Price $1.00 Postpaid. 

By G. H. WILLARD. With Additional Chapters on Core-Making and Molding. 

A book for the man who has to do the work. Written bv a practical pattern maker of many yea! 

right down to business in the first chapter and keeps it up throughout the book. Full of kinks and actual working 
information Profusels illustrated- Every one following this trade, or intending to learn it should have a copy of 
this valuable book- 224 pages. 312 illustrations, cloth covers. 

Time and Its Measurement B y james arthur 

Reprinted from Popular Mechanics. So far as known is entirely different from anything previously written on the 
Mr Arthur is a great author it \ along this line having for years ma. I,- an ox tens ive MuJi oi clocks, watches 
and time-measuring devices. Contents: Chapter 1— Historic Outline. 2 lapancse Clocks. 3— Modern ( ocks. 
I Astronomical Foundation of Time. M pages, profusely illustrated. Size 7x10 inches. Printed on coated paper 
with handsome Mia i loth i overs. Price $1.50 Postpaid. 

SHOP NOTES SERIES OF YEAR BOOKS 

One of these books is issued the first of each year, and is a reprint of all the articles which have been published during 
: past 111 our "Shop Notes Department." 

Shop Notes for 1 90S Shop Notes for 1 908 

200 Pages, Vol. I, 385 Illustrations. 212 Pages. Vol. IV, 536 Illustrations. 

Shop Notes for 1 906 Shop Notes for 1 909 

228 Pages. Vol. II, 555 Illustrations. 216 Pages, Vol. V, 561 Illustrations. 

Shop Notes for 1 907 Shop Notes for 1 9 1 

228 Pages. Vol. Ill, 580 Illustrations. 224 Pages Vol. VI, 543 Illustrations. 

These books are a perfect gold mine of information lor everyone inten -t d in mi . h inics, or who uses tools for pleas- 

an occupation. Of equal v. dm in. I help to the prolcssiom ch.nu, ami the amateur. 

50 cents per volume. Complete Set, 6 Books in a Case, $3.00 Express Prepaid. 

25 CENT MECHANICAL BOOKS 
Amateur Mechanics. No. 1 

A loo page I k for old and young telling how to make useful articles. Size 6tfxW inches, containing 165 illus- 
trations. The descriptions ami illustrations enable anyone mechanically inclined to build at trifling expense all 
sorts oi things for the h e as well as foi use in outdoot sports. Price 25 cents. 

Amateur Mechanics. No. 2 

Biggei and better than No. I Contains entirely different matter, yet along the same interesting, practical lines. 
Tellshowto make main more different articles ol riaiU use. among which are: Workbench. Pilot Balloon. 
Ft Photographs. \\ u. ! h. Boats .,1 Various Kinds. Induction Motor. 1. allien) slides \,, I.., nip. 

rhermoEli trii Batters Motorcycl. Batters Voltmeter, tie.ssler Tube Pevi.es lnUim.i - 

. m five. Glider, Flash Lamp. Static Machine. ( oncrete Swimming Pool. I , ,pper V. Pi , 

Tricksol ill Kinds and Illusions, etc. Interesting to the practical mind, both old and young. l.Np....- re, Wti- 
... illustrations Price 25 cents. 



Mechanics for Young America 



wheels, electric burglar alarms, clocks, searchlights, wate 
.vlnch delight the heart ot the average hoi. loOpages. 170 illustra 

Price 25 < 



All above prices include postage or express. Order of your newsdealer or send direct to publisher 

POPULAR MECHANICS BOOK DEPT. 

225 Washington Street, Chicago. 



Amateur Mechanics No. 1 

A VALUABLE BOOK 

Of Exceeding Interest to the Practical Mind 



For both old and young 



Price 25 cents postpaid 



Ai i elerometer, Simple 

Acetylene ("..is ( .(-iterator, Home-Made 
i proach 



Ammeter. Ib.« to Make 

Ai.inin. i.iti<r, 1 1 -in. M.i-ic- 

A.iu.irium, H<nv to Make an 

Arc Light. Home- Made 

A'lil-i,, 5 for Young Men 

Auto, Young Mechanic Builds Sue- 

Ball, Hollow. How to make 

Batteries, Connecting to Give any Volt- 

Battery. Home-Made Crenet 
Battery Switch 

Battery, ! iii'rmn, How t.i Make 

; ■ ... To I ie< lid 

Bell, Return Call, with One Wire 

Bicycle Toner for Running Miniature 

Trains 
Bo.it. Paddle, How to Make 
Boh -Sled Hntue 
Book Shell. Easily Made 
P.raeket S.iw. <. heap. How to Make 
Brazing. Flux for 
Cabinet, Home-Made Disc 
Camera. Hand, Enlarging with a 
i .un. rail older. HI. i< klead forGrooves in 
Camera, Pictures Without 
Cannon, How to Make 
Cannon. Toy, to Discharge by Electricity 
Card Puzzle. Turning 
Card Trick, Mechanical 
Cards. Mechanical Tricks with 
Chicken Feeder, Alarm Clock 
< irLuit Breaker lor Induction Coils 
Club-House, Underground 
Co. k.Three-Way.forSmallModelWork 
(. ..mpressed Air Phenomenon. Curious 
Cup and Saucer Raek, llnw to Make 
Cup. To Balance on a Knife 
Current Reverser, Simple 
Dogs and Cats. To Keep Away from 

Garbage tan 
Dogs, To Drive Away 
Door Opener, Electric 
Draft Opener, Automatic 
Electric Blue Light Experiment 

! .-Iiting, Miniature 
Electric Lamps, Experiments with 
Electric Light Circuit, Easy Experiments with 
Electrical Experiment, Interesting 
cians' Don'ts 
j. Plating. Easy Method ol 
Electrosi ope. How to Make 
Eire Screen, How to Make 
Foundry Work at Home; 

Part 1 — Equipment 

Part II — How to Make a MoM 

Part III ■ Melting and Pouring 
Furnace. Door Opener for 
Furnace Drift. Alarm Clonk to Pull Up 
Furnace. Small Brass. To Build 
Furnace, Small Electric. How to Make 
Calvrmoscope, How to Make 
Casuline Burner for Model Work 
Gearwheels. Small, To Make Without .1 1 athe 
Grape Arbor. How to Build 
Gravity Batteries, Why Fail to Work 
Grocery Memorandum. How to Make 
Hammer, Experiment with Two-Foot Rule and 




Hydrogen Generator. Small Electrical 

Hygrometer. How to Make 

"ce Chisel, Handy 
ce, Peculiar Properties of 
ncandescent Lamp. Lighting with Indu 
nk. Black Ruling 
nterrupter, How to Make an 
ron Rust, To Remove from Cloth 
utnp Spark Coil. How to Make 

Kite. Box, How to Make 

Language. How to Make a New 

Lathe, How to Make 

Lightning Flash, Photographs 

Lock, Another Electric 

Lock! Combination, How to Make 
Lock. Electric, for Sliding Door 
Lock, Home-Made Pneumatic 
Lock. Simple Ele< trie 
Lock, Spring, Protection of 
Locomotive. Model 
Locomotive. Neat Model 
Magazines, How to Bind 
Magic, Parlor, for Winter Evenings 
Medical Induction Coil. How to Make 



CONTENTS : 



Motor. Controller for Small 

Motor, Small, Reversing 

Motor*. Small, Direct -Connected Re- 
verse for 

Mouse Trap. Novel 

Music Cabinet. How to Make 

Nail Holes. Filling 

Negative, To Make Without Plate or 
Film 

Nickel, Polish for 



Pepper's Ghost Illusion. Miniature 
Phonograph Horn. Paper. How to Make 
Phonograph Music, To Transmit to a 

Distance 
Photograph a Man In a Bottle, To 
Photograph on Apples. How to 
Pli.-lo^raphs, "Freak," How to Make 



Porch Chair. How to Make 

Pottery Kiln. Home-Made 

Powder, To Explode with Electricity 

Prince Rupert's Drops 

Pump. Rotary. How to Make 

Railroad President, Youngest in the 

World 
Rain Gauge. How to Make 
Relay Made from Electric Bell 
Reversing Switch for Electrical Experi- 

Rheostat. Battery 

Rheostat. Water. How to Make 

Rheostat. How to Make a Simple 

Sealing Wax Bent While Cold 

Sheet Metal, To Lubricate 

Silhouettes, How to Make 

Spit Turned by Water Power 

Squirrel Pest. Antidote for 

Steam Engine Built in Amateur Shop 

Steam Engine, Toy. How to Make 

Stream. To Cross on a Log 

Switch for Reversing Current 

Table. Method of Lifting 

Telegraph. Cheap, For Learners 

Telegraph Key and Sounder, How to 

Telegraph Line. One-Wire 

Telegraph Line. Simple Open Circuit 

Telephone Receiver. Home-Made 

Telephone, Singing 

Telescope. Farmer's Boy Builds 

Time Switch. Automatic 

Toboggan Sled, How to Build 

Top, Optical 

Trap for Small Animals 

Trees, Burning Inscriptions on 

Water Colors. To PreventfroinCrawling 

Water Motor. Home-Made 

Windmill. Musical 

Window Boxes. Rustic 

Window Conservatory 

Wireless Coherer. Easily Made 



CONTAINS 174 ARTICLES, 165 ILLUSTRATIONS 

"Amateur Mechanics" is a thorough, practical book for old and young. Tells how to make hundreds of 
different articles of daily use. Is of exceeding interest. This book should be in every American home. 

WRITTEN SO YOU CAN UNDERSTAND IT 

For sale by all Newsdealers or can he ordered direct from the Publishers 



POPULAR MECHANICS BOOK DEPT. 



CHICAGO 



MATEUE^ 



NOW READY 

No. 2 of Amateur Mechanics 

Price 25 cents, postpaid 

Bigger and better than No. 1. Contains entirely 
different matter, yet along the same interesting, 
practical lines. Tells how to make hundreds more 
different articles of daily use, among which are : 
Workbench— Pilot Balloon— Freak Photographs- 
Wireless Telegraph — Boats of Various Kinds- 
Induction Motor — Lantern Slides — Arc Lamp— 
Thermo Electric Battery — Motorcycle — Battery 
Voltmeter — Geissler Tube — Devices for Winter 
Sports— Electric Locomotive — Glider— Flash Lamp 
— Static Machine— Concrete Swimming Pool— Cop- 
per Work — Post Card Projector — Tricks of all 
Kinds and Illusions, etc. 

Interesting to the Practical Mind, Both Old and 
Young, and "Written So You Can Understand It" 



ABOOKa-/- 
OLDe^YOlNG 

a) ho OHc to~ 



WRITTtNSOYOUON 
UNDERSTAND IT 



128 PAGES 



193 ARTICLES 



196 ILLUSTRATIONS 



For sale by all newsdealers or can be ordered direct from publishers 

POPULAR MECHANICS BOOK DEPT, 225 Washington St., CHICAGO 



25c 



Metal Spinning \25z 



By PROF. F. D. CRAWSHAW 

Assistant Dean, College of Engineering, University of Illinois 

Practical Instruction in a Fascinating Art 

8o pages. Cloth cover, jj illustrations. 
Number 2 of Popular Mechanics 25c Handbook Series 

THE only book published on this interesting art, and written by a 
man who has made a thorough study of all obtainable informa- 
tion on the subject, making the work absolutely authentic and 
adapted to use as a practical working manual both to those who desire 
to spin metal as an art recreation and to follow this work as a trade. 

PRICE 25 CENTS, POSTPAID 

Can be ordered through your newsdealer or direct from the publishers 

n/ n. mTT A j^ A , P/ n, M A xnnn BOOK DEPARTMENT 
POPULAR MECHANICS 225 Washington St., Chicago 



Mission Furniture 

How to Make It 



96 Pages 



PART I. 



Cloth Cover 



fT^HIS is the first of a series of 25-cent handbooks on in- 
-*- dustrial subjects to be issued from time to time by 
POPULAR MECHANICS. This book consists of a num- 
ber of articles telling how to make a large assortment of 
pieces of mission furniture. It is fully illustrated and the direc- 
tions are accompanied by dimensioned working drawings. 

Like POPULAR MECHANICS, it is in plain, simple 
language and "Written so you can understand it, " so that any- 
one possessing a slight knowledge of how to use tools can 
easily make the various pieces described. 



Among the Contents Are: 

Forty Styles of Chairs, An 
Easily Made Book-Shelf, 
How to Make a Porch Chair, 
A Portable Table, A Pyrog- 
rapher s Table, How to Make 
a Mission Library Table, How 
to Make a Lamp Stand and 
Shade, How to Make a Ro- 
man Chair, A Home-made 
Mission Chair, A Home-made 
Mission Book-Rack. 



PRICE 25 CENTS 





Mission Furniture 

How to Make It 

PART 1 












l 






Number One 





Among the Contents Are: 

How to Make a Tabouret, 
Another Mission Chair, How 
to Make a Roll Top Desk, 
Home-made Lawn Swing, A 
Mission Candlestick, How to 
Make a Magazine Stand, 
How to Make a Blacking 
Case, How to Make a Mis- 
sion Shaving Stand, How to 
Make a Piano Bench, A Dress- 
er for a Child's Play-room. 



The Book has 90 pages ; is attractively bound in cloth covers, and 
can be ordered of any newsdealer in the U. S. or will be sent to any ad- 
dress postpaid upon receipt of the price, 25 cents, by the publishers. 

Tr\ N o «r e rl o a L r c • Tins DO() k is now readv for delivery. 
o i>ewsaeaiers. 0rder from your News company. 



25c 



Popular Mechanics Book Dept. 

225 Washington Street, CHICAGO 



25c 



25c 

POSTPAID 



JUST PUBLISHED 



PART TWO 



25c 

POSTPAID 



Mission Furniture 



128 pages | JJ W tO Make It 1 Cloth cover 

40 New and Approved Designs 

A large and varied selection of immensely popular 
pieces, among which are: 

Settee — Two China Closets — Three Arm Chairs — Rocker — Side 
Chair — Magazine Stand —Mantel Clock — Lamp Stand — -Two Foot 
Stools — Bookcase — Magazine Table — Smoking Stand —Wall Case — 
Waste Paper Basket — Music Stand — Hall Clock — Window Seat — 
Mission Table — Cedar Chest — Child's Dresser — Serving Table — 
Couch — Table — Oil Lamp — Grill — Two Writing Desks — Library 
Set— Hall Tree— Buffet— Bedstead— Dining Table— Wall Shelf- 
Medicine Cabinet — Magazine Rack — Tabouret — Pedestal — Umbrella 
Stand — Telephone Stand — Plate Rack — Screen — Folding Card Table 

Complete dimensioned working drawings, explicit instructions 
how to make, and halt-tone illustrations of the finished pieces. 

Special Features Are: 

Articles describing how to produce the different finishes and show- 
ing methods of making joints and bending wood. 

"Written So You Can Understand It" 

May be ordered of any newsdealer in the U. S. or will be sent to any 
address postpaid upon receipt of the price, 25 cents, by the publishers. 



25c 

POSTPAID 



POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY 

225 Washington St., CHICAGO 



25c 

POSTPAID 



SOc 

Each 



ENTIRELY NEW 
IN THIS COUNTRY 



SOc 

Each 



Separable-Parts Models 

of Steam Engine, Wireless Telegraph, Motor 
Car, Gas Engine, Dynamo, Steam Turbine 



Price 

50c 

Each 

Postpaid 




Complete Set 

of 

6 Models 

$2.50 

Postpaid 



Illustration shows how parts separate 



THESE models are of great value as a means of graphically showing 
all the interrelated parts ot the above named mechanisms by virtue 
of their construction, which is similar to that of educational manikins 
of the human body and organs, with which nearly everyone is familiar. 
Beginning with the outermost or surface parts of the gas engine, for exam- 
ple, these are all differently colored and numbered to correspond to a 
printed key of names which comes with each model. By means of their 
hinge-like attachment, they may then be lifted, thereby disclosing to view 
the layer of parts next underneath, exactly as they would be in the engine 
itself, and so on until the innermost construction is shown. 

The models are carefully made by hand in Bavaria, and this is the 
first time they have been offered in this country. We are the sole rep- 
resentatives in the United States. 

As their value to engineers, students and, in fact, everyone having 
occasion to refer to the construction and working of the different mechan- 
isms mentioned, was at once apparent to us, we felt that they would be 
highly appreciated here. They are substantially made of heavy paper, 
and with ordinary care will last indefinitely. 

Supply Limited Order Now 

= ADDRESS = 

Popular Mechanics Book Dept., c 5 h i c ago 



